Hey! Very fine work indeed! If I had no real racal...
Did you paint it black or is the resin black??
I worked with resin already but I always have to paint the parts black because I couldn´t get any black resin!

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17 days? 17 days?

Personally I don't get 'black resin', I get black dye and add it to the resin. It's very easy and doesn't take a minute.

I really appreciate Cpl Potter taking the trouble to do these in black though. So many resin props come out in weird colours like pink or yellow, when this is such a simple improvement!

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Mike

"We're not heroes - we're from Finchley"

Where do you get your resin? The pre-dyed stuff I get is really nice and I don't need to worry about not stirring the dye enough.

I had some bad experiences in the past with hand mixing dye in resin. Ended up looking like a chocolate and vanilla swirled ice cream.

Russ

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"A writer needs a pen, a painter a brush, and a filmmaker an army." - Orson Wells.

http://www.rookscastle.com
http://www.alchemyarms.com

Well, this is a dealer in Germany:
http://www.r-g.de/en/

I made good experience with their stuff. They don´t offer black resin, so I phoned with one of their technicians. That guy told me to get some black powder and mix it to the resin. Not realy helpful, I thought, because I will have to make a lot of trial and error!!
What kind of dye do you use to get it black?

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17 days? 17 days?

I use Sika Biresin G26 for most things. Fortunately my wife works quite near Tiranti's in London, so she can pick some up on her way home if I ask nicely. They sell a range of polyurethane dyes, including black. The only problem I've ever had with it was if you don't add enough, you get grey resin - and that's obviously not the dye's fault.


I think you either need to stir it more, or add some chopped nuts.

Seriously though, I know what some people do is mix the dye thoroughly with one component of the resin, then add the other component - supposedly this makes it easier to see when everything is properly mixed.

But I'm an amateur compared to some people on this board... plus we're derailing the thread... so I'll shut up now.

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Mike

"We're not heroes - we're from Finchley"

Resin casting comments split off from Cpl. Potter's Racal Headet parts thread found here:

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=6124

_________________
"A writer needs a pen, a painter a brush, and a filmmaker an army." - Orson Wells.

http://www.rookscastle.com
http://www.alchemyarms.com

Can one not make 'silvery' resin?

That way you can chip the paintwork and get that authentic weathered look fairly easy, maybe?

The only way I know is adding "metal" powder to it. That is what Matt and Spat do. Add it to the resin, Matt/Spat, or dust the mold. When dusting you only have the top layer. If it chips thru the top the resin shows thru. The powder is the only way I know to cast unless someone else has another way.

Thanks!

Greg

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CPL A08/TQ0.0.12146E1
Newell, Greg A aka Gman
Illinois - USA
UKCM
Shoot first, think never.
Good? Bad? I'm the guy with the gun.
SMMFD
The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was convincing the world he doesn't exist.

That's the way I do it as well, dust the mould and mix it into the resin as well.
But to get a good "silver" color, you need to use a white or off white resin.
Using black resin will get you a kind of parkerized steel grey color. Which is
okay too if that's the effect you want.

Russ

_________________
"A writer needs a pen, a painter a brush, and a filmmaker an army." - Orson Wells.

http://www.rookscastle.com
http://www.alchemyarms.com

The black resin I use is the Alumilite RC-3, 2 gal. Kit.

Costs about $90 plus shipping. The "A" side is pre dyed and the final
result comes out a nice uniform black color.

Russ

_________________
"A writer needs a pen, a painter a brush, and a filmmaker an army." - Orson Wells.

http://www.rookscastle.com
http://www.alchemyarms.com