A word of warning guys to all those using or thinking of using a Tanaka remington for an all metal PR build. I dont know if this applies to a Maruzen or any other metal airsoft replica but I just cut off the trigger guard to make the body fit in the SPAS cage. However, when I cut the trigger guard in front of the trigger I exposed a large spring which is connected to the pumping mechanism to rack the gun. The gun does not rack without the spring being tensioned in place. Therefore I am now going to have to weld or screw a small plate about 1mm think by about 15mm long by 8mm wide to tension the spring again. Real pain.

In addition did any one find the fit of the remington into the SPAS cage real tight. Anyone got any tips to ease the friction

all the best

chris w

That does also apply to the Maruzen version as well. You should not have removed the trigger guard unfortunately (which you now know of course and hindsight is a wonderful thing ). Instead you should have made a cut at the bottom/at the back of the SPAS cage to allow the guard to pass through. You would also then find that because there is a little bit of Spring in the cage at the back end that the 870 would slide in much more easily whilst still being a nice snug fit.

I believe if you look at a ref pic of the dual firing Hero PR you will see that the trigger guard is in place. It is only on the Thompson only or stunt versions that the guard is omitted.

Cheers

Darren

cheers for the info Darren much appreciated. how daft to I feel doing that.

Not to worry I'll go with the plate weld idea now as I probably dont have much choice.

Re the give in the back end of cage do you mean the additional spring is created by cutting the slot you mentioned. and is there any other hidden gems I can look forward to when doing the GL section.


Cheers

Chris W

Hey Chris

Yes the give in the cage is due to the slot being cut which opens up the back end all the way to the loading port. Also there is no need to cut a channel down the side of the 870 reciever in order to get it to fit in either after you do this.

DATA is the best guy to talk to about this really and I'm sure he'll chime in. He did the G/L section on my PR for me. I did it myself originally and the results were OK but not great. There is only so professional you can be when your doing it on your living room floor after all LOL

Things to be careful of are undercutting the barrel and cocking tube, mainly the tube which holds the shells though as if you cut it a little short (like I did the first time) then it screws everything up. Same applied with the racking arms.

As everyone always says it is better to cut too little off than too much. You can always shorten them but making stuff longer again ain't so easy.

This is why my PR now is actually using it's second Maruzen 870

Cheers

Darren

I know what you mean about turning your home into a machine shop. metal filings get everywhere.

I'll cut the slot and see what additional sping I can get Thanks again for that. A lot of my friends work in machine shops and there moto is you can cut it off ok but sticking it back on is the hard bit. I will proceed with caution and PM DATA if I get stuck (which I probably will)

cheers again

Chris W

A tasty walk through/tutorial would be rather handy here for the rest of us with this in mind me thinks

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ok, parts I have to date - TOKYO MARUI THOMPSON, SPAS 12 cage,tanaka remington and G&P PR conversion kit plus Phil S GL front end and barrel front triangle. I also have n order 1 connector from tommin to connect GL to thompson.

Tanaka remington strip down - remove rubber stock end and loosen & remove long bolt. This detracts the stock totally. Front end - unscrew the cap on the shell holder or (secondary barrel underneath main barrel) and remove the long spring then unscrew the secondary balrrel from the gun itself. This allows you to reveal the screw which holds a collar connecting both barrels. Loosen this screw and remove the collar. With the secondary barrel and collar removed the front end should consist of the main barrel, and underneath, the pump arms collar and the pump grip. Next remove the pump grip. to do this look at the front end of the gun inside the pump grip is a collar with notches in the front. using a small screwdriver you can loosen the collar and remove the old pump grip. You are now ready to start cutting.

As mentioned above DO NOT CUT THE TRIGGER GUARD OFF. I ve also cut the SPAS cage as per the walkthrough on the M41a web site. Stay tuned and i'll share the next steps when done.

Just to add to what Darren said -


- I think that should be, the front end of the trigger guard is still in place.

In other words you should remove the trigger guard, but leave the part which was holding in the spring you mention.

You can see it fairly clearly in the photo shown in this thread, and also in the photos of the real PR on Harry's site.

_________________
Mike

"We're not heroes - we're from Finchley"

Mike is right. I should have beel clearer. Some of the trigger guard is removed but not the essential front end part. Sorry about that

Cheers

Darren

OK as I have done a excelllent job of making the G/L section on my PR I will tell you how to do it.

Do 5 years at college and have a machine shop with CNC lathes, CNC mill's and manual lathes and mills. With all the tools and measurement equipment.

Bob your uncle.

Ok sorry for that. It took me one year to design and other year to make the parts for the PR and getting it together. I lot of work went in to this and lot of thanks for those that helped me.

The key part of the G/L section is the Pin that goes through the M870. This is the ref point of the dimensions. When making the G/L there is not fixed point to measure off so i made two screws and drilled and tap the pin in the M870 and it fixeds in the slot on the S.P.A.S cage, with this I could measure the length's of the barrles. racking arms, stoke, were to drill holes in the ranking arms, grip on the S.P.A.S grip.

With all the standard cuts in the S.P.A.S cage you must cut the back bit out for the trigger guard. I think it was about 12.5mm wide. You also need to file a little notch for the lever on the M870.

NOTE!!!! make sure the S.P.A.S cage is free of burrs and clean up off the edges with a file are a stone tool that you can use with a dreme. DO NOT CUT THE PLASTIC BODY ON THE M870. With a little pull on the cage apart and the M870 Will fit into the cage with a nice fit. The clamping force of the cage on the M870 will hold it very well. With the front block in place the the Pin the M870 will not move.

DO NOT CUT THE TRIGGER GUARD OFF. You can cut a little bit off here and there. Also that goes to the plastic body on the M870.

Here are some drawings.

Cheer's Steve