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 Post subject: Fitting a sling properly.
PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2019 3:36 pm 
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Country: United Kingdom
https://i.imgur.com/T0KgWhU.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/RAoABAS.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ihqwfVi.jpg

This is what i'm working with right now. Not really ideal because it's scratching up the metal something fierce, although I don't mind some scuffs and scrapes because it makes it more realistic, but should I get a couple of these things from amazon and will they attach?

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com ... L1001_.jpg

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Starmood-Relea ... 07QL1GR19/

Looks like they should work I'm just hoping the holes are far enough apart etc. The one on the stock should be fine but don't know about the barrel part.

Also, the silver bit that slides over the faux shell on my gun has jammed so the shell is always visible and the pump does nothing, not too concerned because I like the shell being visible but going to be a pain in the ass to take it apart and fix.

Thanks guys.

Edit: Also while I'm here, is this as far back as the pump normally goes or is the fault inside causing it to not go all the way back as it should?
https://i.imgur.com/uVp9Thw.jpg

Thanks again.


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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2019 9:27 pm 
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Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Service Number: A01/TQ2.0.42137E1
Country: United States
To mount those you will have to drill mounting holes in your shroud; this is how I have the slings on my PRs done.

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 Post subject: Re: Fitting a sling properly.
PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2019 3:39 am 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
https://i.imgur.com/T0KgWhU.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/RAoABAS.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ihqwfVi.jpg

This is what i'm working with right now. Not really ideal because it's scratching up the metal something fierce, although I don't mind some scuffs and scrapes because it makes it more realistic, but should I get a couple of these things from amazon and will they attach?

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com ... L1001_.jpg

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Starmood-Relea ... 07QL1GR19/

Looks like they should work I'm just hoping the holes are far enough apart etc. The one on the stock should be fine but don't know about the barrel part.

Also, the silver bit that slides over the faux shell on my gun has jammed so the shell is always visible and the pump does nothing, not too concerned because I like the shell being visible but going to be a pain in the ass to take it apart and fix.

Thanks guys.

Edit: Also while I'm here, is this as far back as the pump normally goes or is the fault inside causing it to not go all the way back as it should?
https://i.imgur.com/uVp9Thw.jpg

Thanks again.


I just use short picatiny rails on the barrel vent and where the Thompson would bolt in the stock, works flawlessly, and wont mess the stock or the vent up.

The build pix are on the other sling thread.


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 Post subject: Re: Fitting a sling properly.
PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2019 4:10 pm 
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Country: United Kingdom
https://imgur.com/a/pXCMacl

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233175943383


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 Post subject: Re: Fitting a sling properly.
PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2019 12:50 am 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
https://imgur.com/a/pXCMacl

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233175943383


I am not a big fan of mounting the rear sling point on the stock, itself, puts too much tension/pressure on the plastic shroud that meets up against the stock.

Its also not as conducive for a hard point if you use the sling as a point of support, plus less uniformity of tension if the length of the stock is adjusted.


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 Post subject: Re: Fitting a sling properly.
PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2019 12:58 am 
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Country: United Kingdom
Whamhammer wrote:
paradoxum wrote:
https://imgur.com/a/pXCMacl

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233175943383


I am not a big fan of mounting the rear sling point on the stock, itself, puts too much tension/pressure on the plastic shroud that meets up against the stock.

Its also not as conducive for a hard point if you use the sling as a point of support, plus less uniformity of tension if the length of the stock is adjusted.


Where would you put it? I'm not a big guy - https://imgur.com/a/3gFlvEc and that was when I just had the rear clip around the top of the stock. Feels comfortable there but I'm always afraid of breaking the stock mechanism. Not that I ever lower it or anything, but I've already took the GL shell shroud out.


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2019 3:41 am 
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https://imgur.com/a/ViZoavZ any specific spot? would need to be permanent so I can drill the holes for it. I'm thinking the green area.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2019 5:52 pm 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
https://imgur.com/a/ViZoavZ any specific spot? would need to be permanent so I can drill the holes for it. I'm thinking the green area.



The answer is, none of the above; you are missing the fantastic mounting point available in the lower
Receiver.

I had pix in the thread that you and I discussed this In February but access to the pictures seem to not be there anymore.

Turn the gun upside down and look at the back part of the lower receiver, behind the handle. There are two holes where bolts are made to go through the receiver so the original Thompson stock can get bolted into, the the thread inside the Thompsons upper receiver.

The first hole is covered by the grey-green “U” bracket that helps hold the two sides of the shroud together, leave this alone. There is another hole, about two inches behind our U bracket, this is where the second, and final stock bolt for a Thompson stock would go, this is where you would bolt the picatinny rail through, to mount the sling point qd/or fixed ring.

- Cut a length of picatinny rail, in a way that the picatinny rail bolt hole is aligned with the final hole in the receiver but that the foremost end of the rail is up against the shrouds “U” bolt and is helping to support the rail.

- Find a proper length 6mm bolt (I think mine was 30 or 35mm length) with the same pitch as the bolt retaining the U bracket; you should have no problem finding the bolt you need at a hardware store through (go with a hex head, it makes the project much easier).

- Insert the bolt, through the picatinny rail, through the lower receiver bolt hole and into the threaded portion in the upper receiver.

- Mount the sling mount/QD sling mount at the front most part of the rail, so its up against the U bracket, for additional support, put sling through, and now you have a sturdy sling mount that will work, no matter what you are doing.


PM me if you need me to email you pixs, I can probably set a decent pdf or jpeg up with rext directions.


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2019 9:00 pm 
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Service Number: A08/TQ1.0.02136E1
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Whamhammer wrote:
PM me if you need me to email you pixs, I can probably set a decent pdf or jpeg up with rext directions.

Whamhammer you can add photos directly into a post, that way it would benefit other followers of this topic.

Harry

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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2019 10:12 pm 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
Harry Harris wrote:
Whamhammer wrote:
PM me if you need me to email you pixs, I can probably set a decent pdf or jpeg up with rext directions.

Whamhammer you can add photos directly into a post, that way it would benefit other followers of this topic.

Harry

Is that a new thing? I tried to do and it didn't work, so I ended up linking to that other site. Might be be ause I was using my smartphone.

Hopefully tonight my wife can get my tower on my desk and I can get the computer back up and running (just had some surgery and didnt finish moving setting everything up in time) on a bunch of pain meds that make coordination and physical exhertion a bad idea, even before the whole recovering from surgery thing.

Ill see what I can do.


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2019 10:37 pm 
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It's not a new thiing by any means. To be honest though I've never tried it on a smartphone. Anyone?

Harry

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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2019 9:25 am 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
Harry Harris wrote:
It's not a new thiing by any means. To be honest though I've never tried it on a smartphone. Anyone?

Harry


I should have my desktop up and running in the AM, I will see what I can get uo.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 10:18 pm 
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Thanks haven't done any work on it yet will wait for you guys. I've got a ton of spare picatinny rail / arc rail attachments etc but they're all kinda cheap plastic, feels safe with these metal mloks on the metal guard rail.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 7:19 am 
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Here's a pic I just took so I could read and have a better look.

https://i.imgur.com/mdNGSNn.jpg

Looks like this is what I want? (it's screwed to a clip I can remove)
https://i.imgur.com/cfVjcPa.jpg

Looks like it should fit snug if I cut a tiny bit into the black plastic near the U shroud?
https://i.imgur.com/IN4MVWH.jpg

I guess I can use a large washer + bolt to keep it in on that side, and a smaller washer on the other. (Just noticed you said there's a screw point there and can just about see it in the picture, I've got a whole workshop so I'm sure I can find something long enough) I've been getting a bit nervous about the sling on the stock because it's starting to wobble about a bit.

Edit: Actually the holes in the mlok mount seem to match the picatinny rail piece so I could just straight up use that.
https://i.imgur.com/tCTmODQ.jpg

Before I go locking things down I wanted to take the whole thing apart and have a look inside (the manual looks really good for that) and maybe tighten the stock - also I took the shell cover out because the little bit of plastic attaching it to the pump snapped and thought it would give me more battery space - turns out it just makes it harder to slide batteries in because they get caught on things now, so I might put that back in and just glue it in place with the shell visible (I prefer it visible at all times anyway).

Any other housecleaning I should do when I open it up, little mods / improvements? Parts to lube with gun oil/silicone oil?

Once I'm done with that I'm gonna wrap some black grip tape around the grip and some similarly-coloured green tape around the green plastic at the top - help keep the plastic together incase of accidents.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2019 2:15 am 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
Here's a pic I just took so I could read and have a better look.

https://i.imgur.com/mdNGSNn.jpg

Looks like this is what I want? (it's screwed to a clip I can remove)
https://i.imgur.com/cfVjcPa.jpg

Looks like it should fit snug if I cut a tiny bit into the black plastic near the U shroud?
https://i.imgur.com/IN4MVWH.jpg

I guess I can use a large washer + bolt to keep it in on that side, and a smaller washer on the other. (Just noticed you said there's a screw point there and can just about see it in the picture, I've got a whole workshop so I'm sure I can find something long enough) I've been getting a bit nervous about the sling on the stock because it's starting to wobble about a bit.

Edit: Actually the holes in the mlok mount seem to match the picatinny rail piece so I could just straight up use that.
https://i.imgur.com/tCTmODQ.jpg

Before I go locking things down I wanted to take the whole thing apart and have a look inside (the manual looks really good for that) and maybe tighten the stock - also I took the shell cover out because the little bit of plastic attaching it to the pump snapped and thought it would give me more battery space - turns out it just makes it harder to slide batteries in because they get caught on things now, so I might put that back in and just glue it in place with the shell visible (I prefer it visible at all times anyway).

Any other housecleaning I should do when I open it up, little mods / improvements? Parts to lube with gun oil/silicone oil?

Once I'm done with that I'm gonna wrap some black grip tape around the grip and some similarly-coloured green tape around the green plastic at the top - help keep the plastic together incase of accidents.



I dont know why you would need to drill holes in the reciever,, if the picantiny holes dont line up with the points the bolts screw into in the reciever, it wont help. If your going to drill holes, you would need to drill them in the picatinny rails to match the scre points on the reciever. As long as the picatinny rail is pressed against the u-clamp and one bolt is tightened down on the pic rail, it will stay in place just fine.

You can always drill holes in the centerpiece of the carry handle, to attach another picatinny eail to attach a red dot, prism scope, or what ever holds your fancy. I found that a magnified red dor helps me to reach out my range and accuracy. With a 2x red dot, I have made kills out to 200 feet, using semi. I dont think I would make shots beyond 100 feet without some sort of sight.

If you have the shroud of, I would recommend replacing the inner barrell with a 300mm 6.03 stainless steel tight bore in barrel ( a 363mm will block the IR sensor for the shot counter)I use a Madbull, but any good quality inner barrel will work. I would have the hop up bucking replaced witha quality higher performance one and have it done over as a flat hop. Before you put it in, wrap the outside of the inner barrel with either electrical or teflon tape to reduce vibration.

If you are comfortable working with gearboxes, I would look at the condition on the parts inside, and to the very least put a spring guide with ball bearings just remember that the parts need to be version 6 compatible. I advise against a new cylinder head, and/or nozzle unless they come paired from the same manufacturer, its very easy to have a set the has worse air seal than the originals.

I also recommend changing out the motor, as the factory one is very weak, I recommend one with neo-magnets, and probably 30k rpm motor (has to be the short type).

I would also take the time to wire a mosfet into the trigger as well, snappy trigger response begins with a good 11.1v LiPo battery (go between 20-30C).

Swap out the fuse with one thats 5 amps or so greater.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2019 2:18 am 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
Thanks haven't done any work on it yet will wait for you guys. I've got a ton of spare picatinny rail / arc rail attachments etc but they're all kinda cheap plastic, feels safe with these metal mloks on the metal guard rail.


Buy metal picatinny rails, they are worth it.


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 Post subject: Re: Fitting a sling properly.
PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2019 11:33 am 
Officers - Making simple s**t hard since 1775
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Location: Boston, Lincolnshire, UK.
Service Number: A07/TQ1.0.52135E1
Country: United Kingdom
I used a couple of 5mm Wire clamps like these...

https://ebay.us/ztaion

Ditch the back clamp and just use the U-bolt part and the nuts.

You'll also need 4x extra 5mm nuts and 8x little 5mm Washers (though I only used 7, I'll explain why shortly)

These go through the holes nicely without any drilling.

Fitting the front one was tricky, you need to screw the front nuts up as far as they'll go, stick the washers on then slot it through the holes in the barrel shroud.

Fitting the rear washers and nuts is very fiddly, I used a pair of tweezers to put the rear washer on, then try and drop the nut on top of one side then try and screw it down loosely (I have small fingers, which helped). Once you've got one side on to hold it in place, you can do the other.

You only need to screw the rear nuts up loosely, so theyre flush with the bottom of the U-bolt. You then screw the front nuts down tightly.

The rear U-bolt is easier to fit, BUT you will need to remove the rear of the stock (the bit that goes against your shoulder) and file a little bit off it, to make room for the nut. I didn't use a washer on the back of the u-bolt nearest the shoulder stock for this reason as it would have required more filing.

Obviously these U-clamps are silver, but Humbrol Gun-metal (No 53 I think) is a close match if you want to paint them.

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 Post subject: Re: Fitting a sling properly.
PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2019 1:27 pm 
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Country: United Kingdom
SimonT wrote:
I used a couple of 5mm Wire clamps like these...

https://ebay.us/ztaion

Ditch the back clamp and just use the U-bolt part and the nuts.

You'll also need 4x extra 5mm nuts and 8x little 5mm Washers (though I only used 7, I'll explain why shortly)

These go through the holes nicely without any drilling.

Fitting the front one was tricky, you need to screw the front nuts up as far as they'll go, stick the washers on then slot it through the holes in the barrel shroud.

Fitting the rear washers and nuts is very fiddly, I used a pair of tweezers to put the rear washer on, then try and drop the nut on top of one side then try and screw it down loosely (I have small fingers, which helped). Once you've got one side on to hold it in place, you can do the other.

You only need to screw the rear nuts up loosely, so theyre flush with the bottom of the U-bolt. You then screw the front nuts down tightly.

The rear U-bolt is easier to fit, BUT you will need to remove the rear of the stock (the bit that goes against your shoulder) and file a little bit off it, to make room for the nut. I didn't use a washer on the back of the u-bolt nearest the shoulder stock for this reason as it would have required more filing.

Obviously these U-clamps are silver, but Humbrol Gun-metal (No 53 I think) is a close match if you want to paint them.


Aren't these basically what I've done already but with smaller mount points? they don't swivel either.

Whamhammer wrote:
paradoxum wrote:
Here's a pic I just took so I could read and have a better look.

https://i.imgur.com/mdNGSNn.jpg

Looks like this is what I want? (it's screwed to a clip I can remove)
https://i.imgur.com/cfVjcPa.jpg

Looks like it should fit snug if I cut a tiny bit into the black plastic near the U shroud?
https://i.imgur.com/IN4MVWH.jpg

I guess I can use a large washer + bolt to keep it in on that side, and a smaller washer on the other. (Just noticed you said there's a screw point there and can just about see it in the picture, I've got a whole workshop so I'm sure I can find something long enough) I've been getting a bit nervous about the sling on the stock because it's starting to wobble about a bit.

Edit: Actually the holes in the mlok mount seem to match the picatinny rail piece so I could just straight up use that.
https://i.imgur.com/tCTmODQ.jpg

Before I go locking things down I wanted to take the whole thing apart and have a look inside (the manual looks really good for that) and maybe tighten the stock - also I took the shell cover out because the little bit of plastic attaching it to the pump snapped and thought it would give me more battery space - turns out it just makes it harder to slide batteries in because they get caught on things now, so I might put that back in and just glue it in place with the shell visible (I prefer it visible at all times anyway).

Any other housecleaning I should do when I open it up, little mods / improvements? Parts to lube with gun oil/silicone oil?

Once I'm done with that I'm gonna wrap some black grip tape around the grip and some similarly-coloured green tape around the green plastic at the top - help keep the plastic together incase of accidents.



I dont know why you would need to drill holes in the reciever,, if the picantiny holes dont line up with the points the bolts screw into in the reciever, it wont help. If your going to drill holes, you would need to drill them in the picatinny rails to match the scre points on the reciever. As long as the picatinny rail is pressed against the u-clamp and one bolt is tightened down on the pic rail, it will stay in place just fine.

You can always drill holes in the centerpiece of the carry handle, to attach another picatinny eail to attach a red dot, prism scope, or what ever holds your fancy. I found that a magnified red dor helps me to reach out my range and accuracy. With a 2x red dot, I have made kills out to 200 feet, using semi. I dont think I would make shots beyond 100 feet without some sort of sight.

If you have the shroud of, I would recommend replacing the inner barrell with a 300mm 6.03 stainless steel tight bore in barrel ( a 363mm will block the IR sensor for the shot counter)I use a Madbull, but any good quality inner barrel will work. I would have the hop up bucking replaced witha quality higher performance one and have it done over as a flat hop. Before you put it in, wrap the outside of the inner barrel with either electrical or teflon tape to reduce vibration.

If you are comfortable working with gearboxes, I would look at the condition on the parts inside, and to the very least put a spring guide with ball bearings just remember that the parts need to be version 6 compatible. I advise against a new cylinder head, and/or nozzle unless they come paired from the same manufacturer, its very easy to have a set the has worse air seal than the originals.

I also recommend changing out the motor, as the factory one is very weak, I recommend one with neo-magnets, and probably 30k rpm motor (has to be the short type).

I would also take the time to wire a mosfet into the trigger as well, snappy trigger response begins with a good 11.1v LiPo battery (go between 20-30C).

Swap out the fuse with one thats 5 amps or so greater.


Without pictures a lot of the start of your first post doesn't make much sense to me sorry. I'll at the very least use some silicone oil after flipping through the manual there's even a hole/port somewhere on the gun where you can do it without taking it apart, should I just do that and see if anything needs it inside?

With regards to gearboxes ; i've never had one open, but I'm no stranger to this kinda stuff but I'm so clumsy I'll probably end up breaking it if I went in there, there's a local retailer I think that has said in the past he has upgraded these guns so maybe I'll talk to him.

What about the uh, barrel? or whatever? I read some comments about people swapping it to a slightly longer/smaller one?


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 Post subject: Re: Fitting a sling properly.
PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2019 7:04 pm 
Officers - Making simple s**t hard since 1775
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Location: Boston, Lincolnshire, UK.
Service Number: A07/TQ1.0.52135E1
Country: United Kingdom
paradoxum wrote:

Aren't these basically what I've done already but with smaller mount points? they don't swivel either.


Pretty much, yup.

Just putting it out there for anyone interested, seeing as the subject of sling mounting came up!


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 Post subject: Re: Fitting a sling properly.
PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2019 7:49 pm 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
SimonT wrote:
paradoxum wrote:

Aren't these basically what I've done already but with smaller mount points? they don't swivel either.


Pretty much, yup.

Just putting it out there for anyone interested, seeing as the subject of sling mounting came up!



The problem with mounting the sling on the stock is that:

1) The stock isnt the highest quality metal

2) The gun sided point of the stock is mounted between pot metal, and plastic

By putting the sling on the stock, one is increasing the amount of “leverage” to stock places on the pot metal and the plastic of the gun, it will increase pressure and wear on the plastic shell of the pulse rifle body ending in (at best) the plastic compressing and the stock becomes not as tightly mounted and loose/wobbly, or (seen this before) the plastic portion at the rear most part of the shroud cracking.

The factory stock will also experience some bending during use as well.

The technique that you are showing is great for a showcase model, or even a thoroughbred real steel with hardened parts. If you notice in the movies, with exception to Ripleys gun, most either didnt have a sling, or the actors didn't sling their rifles, and it was probably true off filming as well.

The way the prop masters set up the slings in the movie just wasn't very good, and they didn't really have to take everyday style use, or use of the sling as a tension point while at the ready or firing because it being that far back makes for an awkward shouldering/maneuvering feel, as opposed to further up on the reciever.


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 Post subject: Re: Fitting a sling properly.
PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2019 8:13 pm 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
SimonT wrote:
I used a couple of 5mm Wire clamps like these...

https://ebay.us/ztaion

Ditch the back clamp and just use the U-bolt part and the nuts.

You'll also need 4x extra 5mm nuts and 8x little 5mm Washers (though I only used 7, I'll explain why shortly)

These go through the holes nicely without any drilling.

Fitting the front one was tricky, you need to screw the front nuts up as far as they'll go, stick the washers on then slot it through the holes in the barrel shroud.

Fitting the rear washers and nuts is very fiddly, I used a pair of tweezers to put the rear washer on, then try and drop the nut on top of one side then try and screw it down loosely (I have small fingers, which helped). Once you've got one side on to hold it in place, you can do the other.

You only need to screw the rear nuts up loosely, so theyre flush with the bottom of the U-bolt. You then screw the front nuts down tightly.

The rear U-bolt is easier to fit, BUT you will need to remove the rear of the stock (the bit that goes against your shoulder) and file a little bit off it, to make room for the nut. I didn't use a washer on the back of the u-bolt nearest the shoulder stock for this reason as it would have required more filing.

Obviously these U-clamps are silver, but Humbrol Gun-metal (No 53 I think) is a close match if you want to paint them.


Aren't these basically what I've done already but with smaller mount points? they don't swivel either.

Whamhammer wrote:
paradoxum wrote:
Here's a pic I just took so I could read and have a better look.

https://i.imgur.com/mdNGSNn.jpg

Looks like this is what I want? (it's screwed to a clip I can remove)
https://i.imgur.com/cfVjcPa.jpg

Looks like it should fit snug if I cut a tiny bit into the black plastic near the U shroud?
https://i.imgur.com/IN4MVWH.jpg

I guess I can use a large washer + bolt to keep it in on that side, and a smaller washer on the other. (Just noticed you said there's a screw point there and can just about see it in the picture, I've got a whole workshop so I'm sure I can find something long enough) I've been getting a bit nervous about the sling on the stock because it's starting to wobble about a bit.

Edit: Actually the holes in the mlok mount seem to match the picatinny rail piece so I could just straight up use that.
https://i.imgur.com/tCTmODQ.jpg

Before I go locking things down I wanted to take the whole thing apart and have a look inside (the manual looks really good for that) and maybe tighten the stock - also I took the shell cover out because the little bit of plastic attaching it to the pump snapped and thought it would give me more battery space - turns out it just makes it harder to slide batteries in because they get caught on things now, so I might put that back in and just glue it in place with the shell visible (I prefer it visible at all times anyway).

Any other housecleaning I should do when I open it up, little mods / improvements? Parts to lube with gun oil/silicone oil?

Once I'm done with that I'm gonna wrap some black grip tape around the grip and some similarly-coloured green tape around the green plastic at the top - help keep the plastic together incase of accidents.



I dont know why you would need to drill holes in the reciever,, if the picantiny holes dont line up with the points the bolts screw into in the reciever, it wont help. If your going to drill holes, you would need to drill them in the picatinny rails to match the scre points on the reciever. As long as the picatinny rail is pressed against the u-clamp and one bolt is tightened down on the pic rail, it will stay in place just fine.

You can always drill holes in the centerpiece of the carry handle, to attach another picatinny eail to attach a red dot, prism scope, or what ever holds your fancy. I found that a magnified red dor helps me to reach out my range and accuracy. With a 2x red dot, I have made kills out to 200 feet, using semi. I dont think I would make shots beyond 100 feet without some sort of sight.

If you have the shroud of, I would recommend replacing the inner barrell with a 300mm 6.03 stainless steel tight bore in barrel ( a 363mm will block the IR sensor for the shot counter)I use a Madbull, but any good quality inner barrel will work. I would have the hop up bucking replaced witha quality higher performance one and have it done over as a flat hop. Before you put it in, wrap the outside of the inner barrel with either electrical or teflon tape to reduce vibration.

If you are comfortable working with gearboxes, I would look at the condition on the parts inside, and to the very least put a spring guide with ball bearings just remember that the parts need to be version 6 compatible. I advise against a new cylinder head, and/or nozzle unless they come paired from the same manufacturer, its very easy to have a set the has worse air seal than the originals.

I also recommend changing out the motor, as the factory one is very weak, I recommend one with neo-magnets, and probably 30k rpm motor (has to be the short type).

I would also take the time to wire a mosfet into the trigger as well, snappy trigger response begins with a good 11.1v LiPo battery (go between 20-30C).

Swap out the fuse with one thats 5 amps or so greater.


Without pictures a lot of the start of your first post doesn't make much sense to me sorry. I'll at the very least use some silicone oil after flipping through the manual there's even a hole/port somewhere on the gun where you can do it without taking it apart, should I just do that and see if anything needs it inside?

With regards to gearboxes ; i've never had one open, but I'm no stranger to this kinda stuff but I'm so clumsy I'll probably end up breaking it if I went in there, there's a local retailer I think that has said in the past he has upgraded these guns so maybe I'll talk to him.

What about the uh, barrel? or whatever? I read some comments about people swapping it to a slightly longer/smaller one?


Ive recently had surgery, as well as complications from surgery, and have been on heavy pain meds that have made it hard for me to be very active so I havent been able to put my destop back together to put the pic files up. Its been a harder go than I though, I hope to be able to get stuff squared away soon.

Having your local gun tech do the gearbox and other internals work is a good idea, I will work of my version 6 gearboxes on my own (Thompson/Pulse Rifle) but I wont mess with a version 2 (M4/M16) because the trigger is internal and a PITA, my shop does the work on my V2s.

If your tech is working on it, I would have him make sure to max the air seal and then max the fps to the field limits, probably having a professional shim job on the gears and case will go along way too, if the guy is good (along with metal bushing), otherwise its not the end of the world.

The inner barrel is what can get swapped, the factory barrel is a junky brass 270mm, go with a quality 300mm 6.03 stainless steel inner barrel, the new length still allows for room for the IR sensor to detect BBs coming through. This is where a good hop up bucking and a flat hop nub comes in to play to get even better accuracy and range. There is no reason to mess with the outer barrel whatsover.

Do not spray silicone in the hole in the cylinder that you see, its too thin and can make its way all over the gearbox. The worst thing is that some of the silicone will make it past the pistons o rings and blow into the hop up chamber and ruin the bucking, with dirt and slipping, the bucking needs to have a clean and grippy contact patch to the BB, as well as get into the inner barrel, which is bad! It will accumulate dirt and debris more, an accuracy goes into the toilet.

Once the lower reciever is removed from the upper, if you go back and read what I put up and look at the insides of the rar of the upper and lower you will orobably understand completely at that time what I have been telling you.

I will still try and get my computer up and upload pics.


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 Post subject: Re: Fitting a sling properly.
PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2019 9:24 am 
Officers - Making simple s**t hard since 1775
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Location: Boston, Lincolnshire, UK.
Service Number: A07/TQ1.0.52135E1
Country: United Kingdom
Whamhammer wrote:

The technique that you are showing is great for a showcase model, or even a thoroughbred real steel with hardened parts. If you notice in the movies, with exception to Ripleys gun, most either didnt have a sling, or the actors didn't sling their rifles, and it was probably true off filming as well.

The way the prop masters set up the slings in the movie just wasn't very good, and they didn't really have to take everyday style use, or use of the sling as a tension point while at the ready or firing because it being that far back makes for an awkward shouldering/maneuvering feel, as opposed to further up on the reciever.


Generally I don't have the sling over my shoulder, it tends to be wrapped round my arm. Like you say, it's really more for show.


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 Post subject: Re: Fitting a sling properly.
PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2019 11:03 pm 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
SimonT wrote:
Whamhammer wrote:

The technique that you are showing is great for a showcase model, or even a thoroughbred real steel with hardened parts. If you notice in the movies, with exception to Ripleys gun, most either didnt have a sling, or the actors didn't sling their rifles, and it was probably true off filming as well.

The way the prop masters set up the slings in the movie just wasn't very good, and they didn't really have to take everyday style use, or use of the sling as a tension point while at the ready or firing because it being that far back makes for an awkward shouldering/maneuvering feel, as opposed to further up on the reciever.


Generally I don't have the sling over my shoulder, it tends to be wrapped round my arm. Like you say, it's really more for show.



That’s why I have two of them, one that is built up for field play, and on that it untouched in the box, bought the second one from Evikes “Boneyard” for less than half of retail. I thought it would be roached and be for spare parts but, had notes in the box that it wouldn't shoot. All I did was plug in a fresh 7.4v lipo, and cycled the selector switches a few times and it was firing like it should.

But, yes, the skirmishing one has endured over a years worth of every weekend skirmishes, including four full-day OPs, its earned me the nickname “Pulse” at a few fields, so I have adopted it.

I always have it slung on me, front part of the sling goes over my left shoulder and wraps under my armpit to the back of the lower receiver. I keep it tight enough that I can keep it shouldered with just my right hand on the pistol grip and the right arm pressing forward.

When built up right, these guns will give high end M4s a run for their money. I think the gear ratio is shorter than M4s because my friend mods Combat Machine M4s with short stroked
Lightened Pistons, and teeth removed from the gears for quicker rof, his guns due
28 rps, my PR was doing 26, but I turned it lower because the mags couldnt keep up usingg .32s.

Ive gotten more kills with this gun than any other.


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 Post subject: Re: Fitting a sling properly.
PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 2:21 am 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
Paradoxum,

While I am getting the computer together, check the link below, its for pulse rifle assembly instructions for the pulse rifle, starting with a Thompson base kit, pay attention to the parts with the Thompson stock disassembly, and the parts with the lower and upper receiver exposed. I think these pictures may help you figure out where I am coming from.


http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Doc/M4 ... Manual.pdf


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 Post subject: Re: Fitting a sling properly.
PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2019 7:28 am 
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Country: United Kingdom
Whamhammer wrote:
Paradoxum,

While I am getting the computer together, check the link below, its for pulse rifle assembly instructions for the pulse rifle, starting with a Thompson base kit, pay attention to the parts with the Thompson stock disassembly, and the parts with the lower and upper receiver exposed. I think these pictures may help you figure out where I am coming from.


http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Doc/M4 ... Manual.pdf


Thanks, downloaded that pdf.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B010M2D0LG/ is this the barrel I should get to replace? or am I mixing up my guns here.


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