sjanish said on 12/5/00:
Well? How did it turn out? What kind of thinner did you use?
I'm about to try it and figured I would see if anyone else has already tried and could maybe take some of the guesswork out of it for me.
Scott
s_janish@hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------
StevieRad said on 12/5/00 :
Scott,
I have. I used Humbrol thinner.....it is the only thinner that I found to work. I used a ,mix of 30/70. It takes a long time to dry. I let my pulse rifle stand for 2 days before I handled it. Oh....clean he airbrush right away......very nasty stuff when it dries.
Steve
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Harry Harris said on 12/5/00:
What Steve said.
Humbrol enamel is evil stuff to airbrush, it'll stink the workshop out for a start (that's the thinners mostly) so make sure you're in a well-ventilated space.
I've also found that for some reason, on occasions, you might get spots that stay wet and sticky. The most likely reason for this that I can think of is that the paint isn't mixed properly. It needs to be stirred much more than you think to get all of the pigment at the bottom of the tin to break down.
I also agree with Steve about the drying time, you really do need to let the paint cure well before handling.
Regards,
Harry Harris.
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uscmCorps said on 12/5/00:
When I sprayed my pulse rifle's shroud I used a car paint/primer. Great stuff... very easy to use with good results so long as you apply thin, even layers. I used Krylon's Camoflage systems spray paint which is what they often use for Hummers I believe.
How strong is the Humbrol enamel? If I was to spray my shroud in it would it scratch or chip easily?
-Alex
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StevieRad said on 12/5/00 :
Harry is right about stirring up the little tin of paint. Take your time there.
As for durabulity...I found that Hum paint is very strong. Strong like bull.
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Tailgunner said on 12/5/00 :
I have to watch what I spray now through my first airbrush. I shot a lot Humbrol enamels through it as a teen painting models and dioramas. I made an effort to clean it after spraying, but the stuff still built up in nooks and crannies inside the airbrush. Using it with water or oil based paint is ok, but I've ruined an Lexan RC car body when the lacquer ate bits of the old enamel and spit them out in the paintjob.
I've since bought another airbrush for lacquer work, but if I had it to do over I'd have bought a single action airbrush for spraying the Humbrol and not crudded up my "good" brush with it.
Butch...
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Sjanish said on 12/06/00:
Wow, what a great response! Next question then. Currently I want to paint a resin piece. I plan to prime it with Krylon Sandable Primer. Good idea/bad idea? If that is a bad idea which primers have worked for you?
Thanks
Scott
s_janish@hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------
Harry Harris said on 12/6/00 :
Steve,
Sorry, going back to Humbrol enamels for a minute have you ever tried thinning it with isopropyl alcohol? I'm just curious as I soak my airbrush parts in it after spraying Humbrols and it seems to dissolve it pretty well.
Regards,
Harry Harris.
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sjanish said on 12/6/00 :
No problem Harry. I am interested in any and all information regarding the use of this paint. I have never used it and have heard it can be tricky. I also have an SD PR that will need to be painted and I want to know what to expect before I try to paint that. Any and all information is greatly appreciated.
Scott
s_janish@hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------
StevieRad said on 12/6/00 :
I used to use Kylon....but I found something better. Dean Dymerski turned me on to it. It is called Plastikote Spot Filler Primer. It is very sandable and is the best primer out there. For resin it is great! It dos exactly what it says. Fills spots. It works great on fiberglass too!!! I get mine at the local PEP Boys autoparts.
Harry,
I tried everything. Denatured alcohol, windshield wiper fliud( I dilute my acrylics with this), all thinners.....the Humbrol worked the best.
Steve
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sjanish said on 12/6/00 :
Cool, I think I actually have a can of that from Pep Boys. How is it on small details? I bought it with plans to do a Voyager padd kit I got in trade and the guy said that was the perfect color for the padd.
Scott
s_janish@hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------
gw2tulsa said on 12/6/00 :
Steve,
You mentioned Windshied Wiper Fluid for acrylics. Would ammonina cleaner do the same trick if it were diluted down a little more. Something about blue wiper cleaner just seems like it would mess up the paint color to me...
-Gary
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Harry Harris said on 12/6/00 in response to a question of whether Bess Brown is green or brown:
Dan,
It's kind of a greenish-brown.
No, brownish-green!
Actually it's fairly brown to be honest, why do you ask?
Regards,
Harry Harris.
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sjanish said on 12/6/00 :
Yeah, the color is very hard to describe. It also seems to be easily distorted in photgraphs. The best way to tell is to see it for yourself. Buy a can and test it on some scrape. I would describe it as a muddy brown with some green mixed in...but the dirt may make different colored mud where you are.
Can anyone recommend some US based websites that sell Humbrol paint and thinner? I had some urls, but who knows where I put them.
Thanks
Scott
s_janish@hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------
StevieRad said on 12/6/00 :
Gary,
It works great! Even when using light colors like greys and tan colors. Even white. No color change at all.
Steve
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Harry Harris said on 12/6/00 :
The helmet cameras, smart gun sight, pulse rifle, flame thrower, motion tracker, dropship pilot helmets (possibly), various bits & pieces like that little miniature crate I have, Ripley's data disc are all brown bess.
Regards,
Harry Harris.
When you are out of Pulse Rifles, you are out of Weapons!