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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 3:58 pm 
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I'm trying to figure out where to cut the back right side. Please excuse this really lame diagram!

If I cut at the same point as the front left (see a few posts back) I'd be cutting into the first of the two rectangular things on the right side of the piece. But when I look at the original prop I don't see any evidence of those in the build. The tube looks longer and has a vertical latch (red arrow pointing it out crudely). The bit outlined in yellow is the reversed M16; I just wanted to clarify what was most definitely not part of the back piece.

My thinking is that I will cut just to the left of the area with the pair of rectangles, and just under it as well. I then may need to create more length for the tube out of putty, and find a donor for the latch.

Attachment:
backpuzzle.jpg
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 4:06 pm 
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retrogarde wrote:
I'm trying to figure out where to cut the back right side. Please excuse this really lame diagram!

If I cut at the same point as the front left (see a few posts back) I'd be cutting into the first of the two rectangular things on the right side of the piece. But when I look at the original prop I don't see any evidence of those in the build. The tube looks longer and has a vertical latch (red arrow pointing it out crudely). The bit outlined in yellow is the reversed M16; I just wanted to clarify what was most definitely not part of the back piece.

My thinking is that I will cut just to the left of the area with the pair of rectangles, and just under it as well. I then may need to create more length for the tube out of putty, and find a donor for the latch.

Attachment:
backpuzzle.jpg



I'd keep extra (longer) tube, personally. Extra tube could hide behind/under other parts and maybe contribute to some stability. Not sure what the support "bones" of the build are like, but since the middle reciever section is wider, you may not need to cut the back one much at all. Just slap the middle parts over the top of the back parts. Just grind the surface of the part that is to be covered so it is more flat and cover in body filler after joining them appropriately. Assuming that doesnt make it to thick overall, the layering effect may add strength.

Does that makes sense? not sure I am explaining what I am thinking very well.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 5:19 pm 
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Location: Bath, Maine
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Hmm, I'm not following with the 'keep extra (longer) tube" as right now I think I have less tube to start with.

But what I'm really realizing is that I need to dismantle and cut up the second M16 before I go any further as it has much more clear-cut edges. From there I can more easily (I hope) determine what needs to be cut/overlapped/blended on the back part.

Thanks Terran!

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 12:47 pm 
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Not as much progress this weekend as I'd hoped, transferring my youngest son to a "big boy" bed took up the lion's share of the weekend. I did however get the second M16 taken apart.

Attachment:
split.jpg
split.jpg [ 105.27 KiB | Viewed 10837 times ]


This one is already molded in black which is a heck of a lot better than clear plastic. It'll need to be painted regardless, but if the paint scrapes off it won't look too odd. I'm just finalizing where the cuts will need to be.

I also did a little work on the tank. I forgot to take a photo, but I trimmed the funnel down to the correct height. The lines on the funnel are model railroad tracks according to Shawn Morgan, but he didn't mention the scale. I'll try to work that part out. As for the ribbing on the tube, Harry sent me this note:

Re the other ribbing, check this video out (Chrissie explains it about 4:15 in): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEm10yx0RS8

Awesome story! ADC: this is your video, right? Great stuff mate!

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 5:20 pm 
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Here's what I'm looking at for the left side "front" M16. This will be the backwards facing piece directly over the fuel tank. Now my plastic M16 has a few slight differences in detailing versus what they used in the original prop, so I'll need to work around these limitations as best I can.

Attachment:
cutlines.jpg
cutlines.jpg [ 58.7 KiB | Viewed 10820 times ]


Hopefully I can get this side cut up tonight.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 2:01 pm 
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Damn, that was easy! I got both sides done in no time!

Attachment:
trimmed.jpg
trimmed.jpg [ 120.43 KiB | Viewed 10789 times ]


There's still some general cleanup and sanding to do, but overall that was not the chore I thought it was going to be.

So I mentioned some differences in my last post between this M16 and the ones used for the actual film prop. This photo highlights those differences nicely:

Attachment:
madeinchina.jpg
madeinchina.jpg [ 81.61 KiB | Viewed 10789 times ]


The "Made in China" is the easiest to fix. I can sand it off or putty over it as it is recessed into the surface. If I had the talent I'd rework it to say "Made on Thedus", but I think I'll just make it go away. But the more interesting issue is the raised area to the left. When I blow up the picture of the original prop I don't see the same ridge, at least not the vertical line:

Attachment:
detailcarryhandle.jpg
detailcarryhandle.jpg [ 651.15 KiB | Viewed 10789 times ]


So do I sand mine down or leave it as a slight variation? This is the side that will be against my body when I'm carrying it after all...

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 4:22 pm 
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I would leave it as; unless it bothers you. It will blend in with the final products, rarely be seen, and probably isn't worth the effort of trying to successfully get rid of it.

Of course if it really bothers you, then by all means make it go away. :)

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 1:11 pm 
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The tank is really coming together:

Attachment:
metaltank.jpg
metaltank.jpg [ 55.62 KiB | Viewed 10752 times ]


I'm still looking for the right curved object to finish off the bottom, and I need to extend the neck a bit (I somehow miscalculated where the soda bottle top needed to be in relation to the funnel part...).

Since I'm not having any luck with model train tracks for the ridges on the funnel I think I've found my own solution. Photos coming soon to see what folks think!

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 1:19 pm 
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For the curved bottom... Dummy security camera dome?

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 Post subject: Re: DIY: making an M240 Flamethrower
PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 1:32 pm 
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Man that thing looks great.


As for the curved bottom, I suggest a trip to Lowes/Home Depot and you check out the "post caps" in building materials section. The posts for decks and stair cases have a ton of round 'tops' in both wood and plastic in various sizes. I bet you can find something suitable and lightweight to lop a rounded chunk out of. The decorative wood bits in the same section where you find dowel rods might be particularly rich in candidates.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 1:38 pm 
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Great suggestions, thanks guys!

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 4:57 pm 
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There are also Christmas ornament globes at Hobby Lobby that come in two halves made of clear plastic.

Or if you have a stock pile of plastic Easter eggs, some of those have domed lower halfs that might work if you have one that's big enough.

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 Post subject: Re: DIY: making an M240 Flamethrower
PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 7:54 pm 
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The bits that are confusing you are cos they used an reversed m16a1 upper receiver with the forward assist on it and a reversed m16 lower receiver, the raised area around the mag push button on your replica m16 is a added part they put on for the m16a1 lower receiver to prevent the mag push being hit accidently, the round grooved part is the original barrel mount, the part above the trigger handle is another lower receiver the right way around, you can see the safety catch on the left and the hole for the catch on the right the latch looks like it might be a slap latch from the other side of the receiver then it seems to have a lot of filler blocking the holes,

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 9:49 pm 
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Hi Gunny! That makes a lot of sense about the ridges. If you look back on page 1 on June 27th I posted a picture of some of the parts laid out. I've got the reversed M16 in the front (under the carry handle) and in the back is the forward facing M16 (above the handle). Are you saying I'm still missing part of an M16 somewhere? I appreciate the help!

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 11:20 pm 
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He's saying they used two models of the M16: The M16 and M16A1

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 3:23 am 
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Gotcha. I'm not sure I'm keen on scraping the ridge off though...

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 3:34 am 
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Looking great. I have this on my todo list and I'm saving this topic for future reference. :D

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 5:26 am 

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I always wondered if a lot of people attempted the flamethrower...very, very cool indeed.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 3:01 pm 
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Thanks man! I've get a bit more done including a crazy easy solution to that ridge problem... Photos coming soon!

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 2:04 pm 
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Sorry this update is kind of all over the place!

First off, the obvious solution to the "ridge" problem was simply to hack off the whole area! When I look at the original flame unit prop the only detail on that surface is the oval button thingy (sorry I don't have technical names for these things). I can replace the whole are with a sheet of plastic cut to size with the button hole drilled out and the button glued in place. No ridges, no sanding, no problem!

Attachment:
hackjob.jpg
hackjob.jpg [ 45.72 KiB | Viewed 10538 times ]


Next up was the issue of the vertical ridges on the funnel top of the tank. As I said earlier, Shawn told me they were model train tracks, but I don't have a hobby shop near me anymore and I didn't want to go ordering a bunch of different ones in hopes of getting a match. Instead, I looked around at what I had and hit up on this: sections of zip-ties!

Attachment:
tankridges.jpg
tankridges.jpg [ 80.43 KiB | Viewed 10538 times ]


My woodworking friend had a little show and tell for me this morning. He is cutting out the pattern in a few different thicknesses of wood and plastic. Given the huge difference in thickness between the middle portion and the handle on this puppy I figured having multiple options would be a good call. In the end I will probably use parts of each, with some overlap so that I can be sure it is bolted together securely.

Attachment:
twothicknesses.jpg
twothicknesses.jpg [ 95.42 KiB | Viewed 10538 times ]


No photo but I successfully hacked and sanded the forward assist off the back section (right rear). My next project is to putty up the hole and smooth it over so that no one will be the wiser.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 2:09 pm 
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Great progress!

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 1:12 pm 
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I finished off the top of the tank with putty and a length of plastic pipe. It still needs a little cleanup before I paint it, but this end is effectively done. Now on to the bottom!

Attachment:
topfinish.jpg
topfinish.jpg [ 100.23 KiB | Viewed 10497 times ]


I finally found my donor for the rounded bottom of the tank: a hard plastic SpongeBob Squarepants ball!

Attachment:
spongebob.jpg
spongebob.jpg [ 112.67 KiB | Viewed 10497 times ]


Yes, I stole a toy from my two-year-old and will go to a special hell for it, but for now I have a solid test fit for the bottom of the tank:

Attachment:
bottomfit.jpg
bottomfit.jpg [ 69.84 KiB | Viewed 10497 times ]


I need to do a little putty work on the bottom before I glue this in place, and then we're on to painting and weathering! I'm excited to have this portion done, but I'm also planning tank 2.0 as well. I figure I'll make two and which ever I like better will be my primary, and the secondary will be rigged to hang from the bottom two brackets on my Marine armour.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 5:01 pm 
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The fact that this M16 toy was made out of clear plastic makes it extremely difficult to photograph. Believe it or not, this is a photo of the hole from the forward assist puttied over and sanded smooth. I'll need to give it a test coat of paint to make sure it's set, but I'm guessing it's at least 90% there. I also sanded off the "made in China", even though that area might be covered up with a lever.

Attachment:
backrightputty.jpg
backrightputty.jpg [ 135.6 KiB | Viewed 10487 times ]


While I'm stealing from the toddler I might as well steal from my older son too: this orange piece is a Hot Wheels track cut to match the greeblie on the side of the original prop (I've put the M16 piece from above in this photo just as a size reference). No one has identified the original piece used, but I think once this is painted up it will look pretty darned good.

Attachment:
hotwheels.jpg
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 Post subject: Re: DIY: making an M240 Flamethrower
PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 9:46 pm 

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loving this build. you are doing great work. keep it up.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 3:50 pm 
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Thanks a lot Martin!

So I had the chance to get some paint on the tank. Here's the first coat:

Attachment:
firstcoat.jpg
firstcoat.jpg [ 71.75 KiB | Viewed 10445 times ]


And showing the bottom painted up:

Attachment:
firstcoat2.jpg
firstcoat2.jpg [ 56.49 KiB | Viewed 10445 times ]


I'm really happy with the results! I also painted the back piece and am happy to say I only need to reputty one small part (shown already in process), and sand a bit more on the bottom of the area I patched.

Attachment:
backsanding.jpg
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