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 Post subject: Snow Wolf Rifle Continuous Upgrades/Mods W/Pics
PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2019 8:20 pm 
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Country: United Kingdom
Added a rail to the top and guncam to the barrel shroud;
https://imgur.com/a/WbeNXs7

I broke the wires connecting the sensor on the end of the barrel by accident - there are two black coming from the sensor and one white, leading to a red, black, and white - any easy way to tell how they wire up properly or does it not matter for the two black as long as the white is hooked up? just gonna have to test-fit them and see if the counter works before soldering back together?

Here's a pic: https://imgur.com/a/1Fpc1Yf

Thanks

So far it has a new motor, new tight bore barrel, rewired the power lines from gearbox to battery with higher gauge and replaced with deans - same on batteries (still using NiMH). Maple Leaf hopup bucking nub / shroud bits. I've moved the 9v battery to a small lipo which is going to sit behind the faux shotgun shell and feed some cables out to charge it, and I cut out any protruding bits of plastic in the magwell area so when the cap is on I can get my fingers in and pull mags out and swap them easier, the higher capacity lipo means I can just go to a game day and turn the ammo counter on and not have to worry about it running down from a 9v. I'm thinking of moving the switch somewhere else and replacing it with a light-up red rocker style switch which will just look cooler but for now I just wanna get everything wired up, new spring in, mosfet, and actually play with it for a bit.

Got a mosfet still to wire in and an M90 spring to put in but I'm having trouble figuring out how to get the gearbox open to swap the spring, I had a tech do the motor and wiring for me.

Edit: While I have your attention, anyone know where I can get an extended magazine guide rail to fit into the magwell for easier reloading? I was given an email but got no response and can't seem to find the guy who 3d prints them etc.


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 Post subject: Re: Snow Wolf Rifle Continuous Upgrades/Mods W/Pics
PostPosted: Tue Oct 15, 2019 2:59 am 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
Thompson Gearbox (V6) disassembly:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tn3eJW_vygU

That’ll help you figure how to get the spring in, although, I think a M90 spring will get you below 300 fps with .20g. A M100 should place the fps around 326. Is there a reason why you are replacing the spring?

While you are in the gearbox, polish the bejeezus out of the cylinder, and make sure that there is a good amount of grease on the oring for the cylinder head and the piston head.

That AR15 scope mount definitely is sitting way high, when I disassemble my Pulse Rifle to do
Work on the hop up bucking and the stock, I will have to get you some pics of my set up; its nice and flush, with minimal extraneous work, and doesnt move around at all. I dont have an exact timeline on that.

Yeah, you kinda got in a bit of a pickle there with the sensor, if you still are having issues when I take my PR apart for work, I will take a snapshot of the wiring. You could test the red and black wires connected to either sensor end and wave a screw driver or something between the two and see if it registers on the counter.

Here is the ammo counter kit, minus the sensor.

https://airsoftgogo.com/en/product/prod ... -rifle-aeg


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 Post subject: Re: Snow Wolf Rifle Continuous Upgrades/Mods W/Pics
PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2019 4:56 pm 
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Country: United Kingdom
Whamhammer wrote:
Thompson Gearbox (V6) disassembly:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tn3eJW_vygU

That’ll help you figure how to get the spring in, although, I think a M90 spring will get you below 300 fps with .20g. A M100 should place the fps around 326. Is there a reason why you are replacing the spring?

While you are in the gearbox, polish the bejeezus out of the cylinder, and make sure that there is a good amount of grease on the oring for the cylinder head and the piston head.

That AR15 scope mount definitely is sitting way high, when I disassemble my Pulse Rifle to do
Work on the hop up bucking and the stock, I will have to get you some pics of my set up; its nice and flush, with minimal extraneous work, and doesnt move around at all. I dont have an exact timeline on that.

Yeah, you kinda got in a bit of a pickle there with the sensor, if you still are having issues when I take my PR apart for work, I will take a snapshot of the wiring. You could test the red and black wires connected to either sensor end and wave a screw driver or something between the two and see if it registers on the counter.

Here is the ammo counter kit, minus the sensor.

https://airsoftgogo.com/en/product/prod ... -rifle-aeg


Thanks for the link.

I sent the tech an M110 Nuprol spring and he said it was chron'ing at 370, and our local area is like 350 at 0.20g.

I bought a bunch on M100 and M90 springs, got this £20 M90 one which looks good so I'm gonna install that and get own chrono unit soon.

Quote:
While you are in the gearbox, polish the bejeezus out of the cylinder, and make sure that there is a good amount of grease on the oring for the cylinder head and the piston head.


Any pics or exactly what you mean here? when I had the tech install then new hopup stuff and motor I asked him oil it up and everything and he said it was fine.

Quote:
I sent the tech an M110 Nuprol spring and he said it was chron'ing at 370, and our local area is like 350 at 0.20g.


VFC AEG Spring M90 x 1, PDI AEG 100% (M90) Silicon Chrome Steel Spring Variable Pitch x 1

That's the one I plan to put in it. I got about 3 differnent (Nuprol, SHS etc) M90's and M100's but this PDI ones seems really good, and if it was chroning 370 with 20's with a Nuprol 110 I figure this will get me within 340-350.

My extented 480 cap mag arrived today - thing is huge, is definitely going to be the starting mag becuase none of my holsters will hold it and then it'll go in the dump bag. I really would like some way to reload faster, are there no 3d printing places that have the parts you can just buy? Also given the whole casing of the gun splits into two, how do you affix them to the gun? just attach to one side of the shell?

Thanks again


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 Post subject: Re: Snow Wolf Rifle Continuous Upgrades/Mods W/Pics
PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2019 12:11 pm 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
Polishing a cylinder is a very simple concept, its metal, you polish is with metal polish, just like any other shiny metal. Polishing ensures the cylinder is clean and smooth, so the will be nothing inside of the cylinder to resist against the oring, air seal will be better and no buildup in the cylinder helps the piston to move more efficiently and also there wont be any buildup that will cut against the oring and eventy weaken the seal.

If the M110 got you 370 fps, you will want to use a M100, a M90 is going to put you very close to the low 300’s.

As far as a guide, if you have a Dremel tool , or something similar, you could take a block of wood or plastic, make some measurements, and cut the block to fit in the mag well, and then cut the grove guide for the magazine. Yes, the guide only needs to be bonded to one side, just make sure the block if properly made for a good fit.

As far as mag pouches, look for reproduction WWII US GI 30 round mag pouches, they came in 3 and 5 magazine pouches. They are all over the place, even ebay. Do not use the 20 round pouches.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 22, 2019 8:37 pm 
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Thanks, I have a bunch of M100's, which one should I use?

https://i.imgur.com/fSfCKzN.jpg

should I use the nuprol m100?

and thanks for the ideas with just making my own guide for the mags, I've got some plastic I can cut to size etc and just glue it on either side

I've been putting off the mods and putting it together cause it seems like so much work I should just do smaller parts at a time so it doesn't feel like such a big job.

does that video of the gearbox show you where to wire the signal wire or double signal wire for the mosfet? I'm just worried about that mostly and putting it together and finding it not work again. can't believe I broke the tiny wires on the sensor too, I knew it was going to happen sometime or another, they're so thin and there's no loose length on them for any movement


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2019 12:09 pm 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
My suggestion is to do everything you have to do before putting it back together, as taking apart and outting the thing back together is a pain. Have the guy at your airsoft shop do the things that you don’t feel confidence in doing. Wiring (for mosfets and the IR sensor) is something that they should be able to do just fine. I do this from time to time because there are times where I am not in the mood to mess with something, even if I can do it myself.

Sometimes not having to worry about something is worth the price of admission.


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2019 3:52 pm 
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I can do everything myself just fine, having an engineer do the things was mostly just cost/time/effort thing like you say. Infact I've got the gun laid out next to me with the soldering setup ready to get to it.

I am assuming the wiring of the sensor LEDs on the ammo counter sensor doesn't matter + or - because they're two leds with only 1 wire each, and they just measure when a bullet goes between them right?

how do I know if I need to use the single or double sensor wire with my wiring? and where exactly does it wire up to? the manual isn't totally clear- https://www.gatee.eu/images/gate/instru ... AAB-en.pdf

it only talks about v3 and 4 gearboxes I think, thompson in the snow wolf is 6 right?


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2019 9:05 pm 
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Soldered a bunch of things together, still need to do the amm counter battey and mosfet sensor wire then just the shell which I am going to use screws into bolts for the metal plate parts rather than the crappy allen key screws they have.

Image


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2019 1:38 am 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
I can do everything myself just fine, having an engineer do the things was mostly just cost/time/effort thing like you say. Infact I've got the gun laid out next to me with the soldering setup ready to get to it.

I am assuming the wiring of the sensor LEDs on the ammo counter sensor doesn't matter + or - because they're two leds with only 1 wire each, and they just measure when a bullet goes between them right?

how do I know if I need to use the single or double sensor wire with my wiring? and where exactly does it wire up to? the manual isn't totally clear- https://www.gatee.eu/images/gate/instru ... AAB-en.pdf

it only talks about v3 and 4 gearboxes I think, thompson in the snow wolf is 6 right?



Both Version 6 and Version 3 gearboxes feature an external (from the gearbox) trigger assembly, the contacts are outside of the gearbox. If you are going to solder up the trigger wires, might as well do the two wire assembly.

Those sensors in that ammo counter are not LEDs, its an IR sensor, I really cant say which wite goes where until I break down mine and take a look, which probably wont be until The end of December.

I’m still not a fan “permamounting” the battery in the gun, and making it hard to remove for inspection, especially with a mosfet tied in line wjth the wiring, I think there will be (a small) draw to the battery, all the time. If there was a switch to kill the circuit, that would certainly help. And 1300 mah is a little light to hard mount in a gun, I would be looking at a minmum of 2k mah, as I have worn out a 1600 mah lipo in my PR on a day of use.


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2019 1:48 pm 
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Whamhammer wrote:
paradoxum wrote:
I can do everything myself just fine, having an engineer do the things was mostly just cost/time/effort thing like you say. Infact I've got the gun laid out next to me with the soldering setup ready to get to it.

I am assuming the wiring of the sensor LEDs on the ammo counter sensor doesn't matter + or - because they're two leds with only 1 wire each, and they just measure when a bullet goes between them right?

how do I know if I need to use the single or double sensor wire with my wiring? and where exactly does it wire up to? the manual isn't totally clear- https://www.gatee.eu/images/gate/instru ... AAB-en.pdf

it only talks about v3 and 4 gearboxes I think, thompson in the snow wolf is 6 right?



Both Version 6 and Version 3 gearboxes feature an external (from the gearbox) trigger assembly, the contacts are outside of the gearbox. If you are going to solder up the trigger wires, might as well do the two wire assembly.

Those sensors in that ammo counter are not LEDs, its an IR sensor, I really cant say which wite goes where until I break down mine and take a look, which probably wont be until The end of December.

I’m still not a fan “permamounting” the battery in the gun, and making it hard to remove for inspection, especially with a mosfet tied in line wjth the wiring, I think there will be (a small) draw to the battery, all the time. If there was a switch to kill the circuit, that would certainly help. And 1300 mah is a little light to hard mount in a gun, I would be looking at a minmum of 2k mah, as I have worn out a 1600 mah lipo in my PR on a day of use.


So the SW is a v3/6 gearbox and the double sensor contact points are located outside of it somewhere? (unscrew the 'gun' from the housing with the screw in the bottom of the grip area?) how do you know which sensor wire goes where on the trigger points, or does that not matter?

The Lipo I am hard mounting in there is only for the ammo counter, I use long nuprol 1600mah 1.6v nimhs for the gun. the mounting the lipo inside just for the ammo counter is so I can go and play all day and just turn it on and leave it, and it'll probably last for days, not only that but removing the 9v housing plastic from inside the magwell lets me get my fingers in there to pull mags out with the cap ON and a hole cut in the bottom of the cap.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2019 9:29 pm 
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I can't get the damn main area / gearbox apart. I've looked at youtube vids and I am doing what they do but the gun just won't cooperate. I'm pushing that button down on the back and trying to slide the recievers any which way etc but it just won't come apart, what am I doing wrong?

I need to get into the gearbox to add this M100 spring and I guess solder the 2 signal wires. Again though does it matter which way they are wired up? they are both black so I can't imagine so but I don't know. with the mosfet plugged in between the battery and the gun, it won't fire - it fires fine if I take the mosfet out - is that because it needs the signal wires to function I am guessing?


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2019 9:30 pm 
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I can't get the damn main area / gearbox apart. I've looked at youtube vids and I am doing what they do but the gun just won't cooperate. I'm pushing that button down on the back and trying to slide the recievers any which way etc but it just won't come apart, what am I doing wrong?

https://i.imgur.com/2EGfo9f.jpg

I need to get into the gearbox to add this M100 spring and I guess solder the 2 signal wires. Again though does it matter which way they are wired up? they are both black so I can't imagine so but I don't know. with the mosfet plugged in between the battery and the gun, it won't fire - it fires fine if I take the mosfet out - is that because it needs the signal wires to function I am guessing?

I wired the sensor in the barrel back up but I tested it and it doesn't count down when firing now, so I must have got the wires mixed up, gonna be trial and error I guess unless anyone knows exactly what colour goes where because they change colours after a few cm.

thanks again


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2019 10:11 pm 
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https://i.imgur.com/CQdbmpP.jpg

Ok I got that apart. but I can't figure out how to get the gearbox out of this plastic housing so I can get at the trigger contacts and swap the spring. I've tried everything and there are no more screws, it just won't come out .

Edit: got it apart. I watched some vids on it and it didn't seem that hard, but then everything went everywhere and I lost track of shit.

I just said fuck it because the more I messed with it the more parts kept coming off
so I bagged it all up and I'm just gonna send it to a tech to sort out
https://i.imgur.com/YaZ59kl.jpg


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2019 11:36 pm 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
The Lipo I am hard mounting in there is only for the ammo counter, I use long nuprol 1600mah 1.6v nimhs for the gun. the mounting the lipo inside just for the ammo counter is so I can go and play all day and just turn it on and leave it, and it'll probably last for days, not only that but removing the 9v housing plastic from inside the magwell lets me get my fingers in there to pull mags out with the cap ON and a hole cut in the bottom of the cap.


Have you ever heard of the phrase, “Using an elephant gun on a mosquito”?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2019 11:44 pm 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
I highly recommend a “clean room”, and many little boxes and bags to put things in an label what thongs are and where they go.

Disorganization and impatience are the two best ways to screw up an airsoft gun build.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2019 1:08 pm 
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I don't suppose you know any good teardown/rebuild videos for the gearbox in the PR? I can't find any UK techs to do it - called a couple of shops up and they said can't take any more jobs because they are snowed under (pun not intended)


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2019 11:15 pm 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
I don't suppose you know any good teardown/rebuild videos for the gearbox in the PR? I can't find any UK techs to do it - called a couple of shops up and they said can't take any more jobs because they are snowed under (pun not intended)


Each of the selector switched have a small allen head grub screw in them, the need to be backed out, in order to remove the selector levers, keep in mind that when the levers are removed the pin the makes the selector “click” in position and help to hold the position in is in the lever and spring loaded, dont lose the spring or the pin. After the levers are removed, each selector has a rod that it held in by a philips head screw, unscrew the screw and pull the rod and the screw out.

Once the selector rods are removed, pull the gearbox out of the lower receiver but dont lose the selector plates, or the small cams that bump the selector plate into each of the selector modes, and remember how they go.

You now have a fully exposed gearbox

I already gave you a link for the disassembly/reassembly or the gearbox.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2019 11:54 pm 
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https://airsoft-forums.uk/topic/47461-d ... 6-gearbox/


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2019 1:37 am 
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Hey warhammer;

does it look like everytyhing is there?



I need to solder up my mosfet trigger contact wires, aside from rebuilding the gearbox this is all I have to do in there, pointers please! https://imgur.com/a/HGD6IXT



Thanks,



para


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2019 2:59 pm 
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More pics of the internals if anyone can see anything missing; https://imgur.com/a/oXeRNrw


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2019 4:01 pm 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
Hey warhammer;

does it look like everytyhing is there?



I need to solder up my mosfet trigger contact wires, aside from rebuilding the gearbox this is all I have to do in there, pointers please! https://imgur.com/a/HGD6IXT



Thanks,



para



Where is the anti reversal latch? I havent seen it in any of the pictures. Make sure you haven't lost the 0 shaped bushing.

I wouldnt worry about new gears, unless I missed something in the pictures ,a set of proper V6 gears, which this takes, is a lot more money that what those guys were telling you. And with an 11.1v 20c battery, a 35k neodymium magnet more, and a M120 spring, I was clocking 26 rps and my stock gears are three years old and just fine. A good shim job is what they need.

As far as wiring the trigger contacts go, just follow the instructions in that came with the mosfet, or on Gates website, they are pretty straight forward. Im sure there are you tube videos as well.


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2019 6:12 pm 
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Whamhammer wrote:
Where is the anti reversal latch? I havent seen it in any of the pictures. Make sure you haven't lost the 0 shaped bushing.


I might have lost it? damn, I'll google pics in a bit and see if I have it. 0 shaped bushing? is that one of those little black plastic bits?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 9:24 pm 
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Is this the 0 bushing? (or one of them?) in here? is it black?

https://imgur.com/a/ButjcCc

My SHS shim set came today so I am ready to rebuild it all.

Should I be using the single-wire trigger sensor or the double one with my wiring setup? does it really make a difference?

https://imgur.com/a/0Judbv1


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2019 1:48 am 
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@warhammer - is this right for splicing in the sensor wires? if yes I'll add some solder to the connections and wrap with electrical tape before rebuilding the gearbox.

https://imgur.com/a/iVKkU5q


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2019 1:38 am 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
Is this the 0 bushing? (or one of them?) in here? is it black?

https://imgur.com/a/ButjcCc

My SHS shim set came today so I am ready to rebuild it all.

Should I be using the single-wire trigger sensor or the double one with my wiring setup? does it really make a difference?

https://imgur.com/a/0Judbv1


The picture you had shows the black o-shaped bushings.

I also see the anti-reversal latch in the bag on the left, but there should have been a tensioner spring with it as well.

As far as the trigger wites go, look at Gates website for the instal and feature instructions, and it will tell you evrrythi g you need to figure what works best for your application.


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