SimonT wrote:
I used a couple of 5mm Wire clamps like these...
https://ebay.us/ztaionDitch the back clamp and just use the U-bolt part and the nuts.
You'll also need 4x extra 5mm nuts and 8x little 5mm Washers (though I only used 7, I'll explain why shortly)
These go through the holes nicely without any drilling.
Fitting the front one was tricky, you need to screw the front nuts up as far as they'll go, stick the washers on then slot it through the holes in the barrel shroud.
Fitting the rear washers and nuts is very fiddly, I used a pair of tweezers to put the rear washer on, then try and drop the nut on top of one side then try and screw it down loosely (I have small fingers, which helped). Once you've got one side on to hold it in place, you can do the other.
You only need to screw the rear nuts up loosely, so theyre flush with the bottom of the U-bolt. You then screw the front nuts down tightly.
The rear U-bolt is easier to fit, BUT you will need to remove the rear of the stock (the bit that goes against your shoulder) and file a little bit off it, to make room for the nut. I didn't use a washer on the back of the u-bolt nearest the shoulder stock for this reason as it would have required more filing.
Obviously these U-clamps are silver, but Humbrol Gun-metal (No 53 I think) is a close match if you want to paint them.
Aren't these basically what I've done already but with smaller mount points? they don't swivel either.
Whamhammer wrote:
paradoxum wrote:
Here's a pic I just took so I could read and have a better look.
https://i.imgur.com/mdNGSNn.jpgLooks like this is what I want? (it's screwed to a clip I can remove)
https://i.imgur.com/cfVjcPa.jpgLooks like it should fit snug if I cut a tiny bit into the black plastic near the U shroud?
https://i.imgur.com/IN4MVWH.jpgI guess I can use a large washer + bolt to keep it in on that side, and a smaller washer on the other. (Just noticed you said there's a screw point there and can just about see it in the picture, I've got a whole workshop so I'm sure I can find something long enough) I've been getting a bit nervous about the sling on the stock because it's starting to wobble about a bit.
Edit: Actually the holes in the mlok mount seem to match the picatinny rail piece so I could just straight up use that.
https://i.imgur.com/tCTmODQ.jpgBefore I go locking things down I wanted to take the whole thing apart and have a look inside (the manual looks really good for that) and maybe tighten the stock - also I took the shell cover out because the little bit of plastic attaching it to the pump snapped and thought it would give me more battery space - turns out it just makes it harder to slide batteries in because they get caught on things now, so I might put that back in and just glue it in place with the shell visible (I prefer it visible at all times anyway).
Any other housecleaning I should do when I open it up, little mods / improvements? Parts to lube with gun oil/silicone oil?
Once I'm done with that I'm gonna wrap some black grip tape around the grip and some similarly-coloured green tape around the green plastic at the top - help keep the plastic together incase of accidents.
I dont know why you would need to drill holes in the reciever,, if the picantiny holes dont line up with the points the bolts screw into in the reciever, it wont help. If your going to drill holes, you would need to drill them in the picatinny rails to match the scre points on the reciever. As long as the picatinny rail is pressed against the u-clamp and one bolt is tightened down on the pic rail, it will stay in place just fine.
You can always drill holes in the centerpiece of the carry handle, to attach another picatinny eail to attach a red dot, prism scope, or what ever holds your fancy. I found that a magnified red dor helps me to reach out my range and accuracy. With a 2x red dot, I have made kills out to 200 feet, using semi. I dont think I would make shots beyond 100 feet without some sort of sight.
If you have the shroud of, I would recommend replacing the inner barrell with a 300mm 6.03 stainless steel tight bore in barrel ( a 363mm will block the IR sensor for the shot counter)I use a Madbull, but any good quality inner barrel will work. I would have the hop up bucking replaced witha quality higher performance one and have it done over as a flat hop. Before you put it in, wrap the outside of the inner barrel with either electrical or teflon tape to reduce vibration.
If you are comfortable working with gearboxes, I would look at the condition on the parts inside, and to the very least put a spring guide with ball bearings just remember that the parts need to be version 6 compatible. I advise against a new cylinder head, and/or nozzle unless they come paired from the same manufacturer, its very easy to have a set the has worse air seal than the originals.
I also recommend changing out the motor, as the factory one is very weak, I recommend one with neo-magnets, and probably 30k rpm motor (has to be the short type).
I would also take the time to wire a mosfet into the trigger as well, snappy trigger response begins with a good 11.1v LiPo battery (go between 20-30C).
Swap out the fuse with one thats 5 amps or so greater.
Without pictures a lot of the start of your first post doesn't make much sense to me sorry. I'll at the very least use some silicone oil after flipping through the manual there's even a hole/port somewhere on the gun where you can do it without taking it apart, should I just do that and see if anything needs it inside?
With regards to gearboxes ; i've never had one open, but I'm no stranger to this kinda stuff but I'm so clumsy I'll probably end up breaking it if I went in there, there's a local retailer I think that has said in the past he has upgraded these guns so maybe I'll talk to him.
What about the uh, barrel? or whatever? I read some comments about people swapping it to a slightly longer/smaller one?