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 Post subject: Colt 1911 Painting help!
PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2016 6:59 pm 
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Country: United Kingdom
Hi! I am looking to turn this:
Image[/url][/img]

Into (hopefully something!) like this:
Image[/URL][/img]

I have never attempted anything like this before and so would really appreciate if anyone had any advice on any prep that i should do, paint i should use, etc.
I realise that i should probably break it into it's component parts for painting so as not to get the slide and such stuck but other than that i certainly don't know much! If there is a good thread/site that i should read then i would also be happy to hear about that as well.

Thanks for your time!

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 Post subject: Re: Colt 1911 Painting help!
PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2016 7:55 pm 
You tell me man, I only work here.
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Location: Los Angeles
Country: United States
Take the grips off, and paint them separate.

Lightly wet Sand the item with 400 grit sandpaper, so the paint sticks well.

I suggest using small toy model can spray paints.

They should have a nice dark metallic paints.


Avoid using the large can (home improvement store) paint.


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 Post subject: Re: Colt 1911 Painting help!
PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2016 8:07 pm 
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Country: United Kingdom
Noble wrote:
Take the grips off, and paint them separate.

Lightly wet Sand the item with 400 grit sandpaper, so the paint sticks well.

I suggest using small toy model can spray paints.

They should have a nice dark metallic paints.


Avoid using the large can (home improvement store) paint.


Ah, thank you Noble, that's good advice already as i was thinking of getting the big cans, silly me! Should i use some (silver maybe?) under colour so i can weather the top coat a little? Or is that not such a good idea for a pistol....
Should i be using some sort of matt clear sealer after to protect the paint?

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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2016 8:24 pm 
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Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Service Number: A01/TQ2.0.42137E1
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That's pretty neat, where did you get it?

I would disassemble it as much as possible. Use black on the slide and frame, gunmetal for barrel, trigger, hammer, etc. And wood color for tbe grips.

If you want to weather it I would drybrush silver on the metal parts and use a black wash on the grips.

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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2016 8:39 pm 
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Erik_MAA wrote:
That's pretty neat, where did you get it?

I would disassemble it as much as possible. Use black on the slide and frame, gunmetal for barrel, trigger, hammer, etc. And wood color for tbe grips.

If you want to weather it I would drybrush silver on the metal parts and use a black wash on the grips.


Hi Erik_MAA, i got it here pretty cheap:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-Cla ... .65.7Td2m8

Pretty good value for something that 'slides' and has a detachable magazine. Do you mean drybrush the silver ontop of the black?
I have a great idea for the grips already, going to sub them (if i can remove them easily) for spare wooden 1911 clone grips i have. Hoping also to countersink either 'Suloco' or similar pin-badges into the wood.
I actually ordered two guns as i want also to have a spare painted mag of modified hollow point ammo.

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"People complain about the bad things that happen to 'em that they dont deserve but they seldom mention the good. About what they done to deserve them things. I dont recall that i ever give the good Lord all that much cause to smile on me. But he did." - 'No Country For Old Men'.


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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 1:25 am 
Harvester of Sorrow
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Location: Lancashire (Wirral born)
Service Number: A04/TQ1.0.32156E1
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*Technically breaking law doing this, just a heads up.
I seriously doubt those concerned will notice though! I've done it many times :)

For a better finish, swap the dry-brushing step for brushing a crushed up pencil lead on. It gives a great metallic sheen and let's the black show though too. You WILL need to spray a top coat over it though.

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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 1:27 am 
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Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Service Number: A01/TQ2.0.42137E1
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If you want to weather the gun, the easiest way is to dry-brush using silver. I use Apple Barrel paints which are water based. I try to hit all the "high spots" on the gun which would show wear. A black wash on the wood and silver parts gets into the cracks and brings out the detail nicely.

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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 6:56 am 
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88reaper88 wrote:
*Technically breaking law doing this, just a heads up.
I seriously doubt those concerned will notice though! I've done it many times :)

For a better finish, swap the dry-brushing step for brushing a crushed up pencil lead on. It gives a great metallic sheen and let's the black show though too. You WILL need to spray a top coat over it though.


Yes, technically that's true but i am sure our thin blue line has better things to be dealing with than my poor efforts!! :lol:
Thanks for your tip.

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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 6:58 am 
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Country: United Kingdom
Erik_MAA wrote:
If you want to weather the gun, the easiest way is to dry-brush using silver. I use Apple Barrel paints which are water based. I try to hit all the "high spots" on the gun which would show wear. A black wash on the wood and silver parts gets into the cracks and brings out the detail nicely.


You mean dry brush on and rub of with a clean rag, yeah? I will check out Apple Barrel paints, thanks!

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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 7:17 am 
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Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Service Number: A01/TQ2.0.42137E1
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Some good references and guides:

http://chairsoft-press.com/articles/gui ... de-part-i/

http://chairsoft-press.com/articles/gui ... e-part-ii/

http://chairsoft-press.com/articles/gui ... -part-iii/

http://ww2aa.proboards.com/thread/2498/ ... ments-pics

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/reviewpo ... earance-21

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 Post subject: Re: Colt 1911 Painting help!
PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 1:48 pm 
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Thanks for the links Erik_MAA, that looks like some really good info, the end results certainly look great!!

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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2016 3:46 am 
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Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Service Number: A01/TQ2.0.42137E1
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If you are doing a weathered paintjob, remember that it's almost impossible to screw up! Any mistakes you make you can chalk up to battle wear.

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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2016 3:47 am 
Veni, vidi, bibi cerevisia
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88reaper88 wrote:
For a better finish, swap the dry-brushing step for brushing a crushed up pencil lead on. It gives a great metallic sheen and let's the black show though too. You WILL need to spray a top coat over it though.

I agree with reaper, powdered graphite works GREAT in making a metallic paint look even more realistic! You can add a little at a time and rub it in, and remove it if you need to. Just be careful and add it a little bit at a time so you don't get excess powder on areas you don't want. Here's an example of a project I did a few years back. It's a Blade Runner PKD blaster I picked up used; whoever assembled the kit pretty much painted the whole thing other than the trigger guard and grip butt plate flat black with either enamel or acrylic paint. I repainted the trigger guard, the butt plate and the ejection port with a stainless steel enamel and then painted over all the flat black areas with clear gloss acrylic. I then used a number of layers of powered graphite on the guard, butt plate, ejection port and barrel sections (which were still painted black.) After a bit of other weathering, this is what I ended up with, just to give you an idea (sorry the front end is a bit out of focus):

Image
Image

I really liked how the "texture" came out. It's not perfect, but it's a LOT better than the original flat black paint job that it had!

Powered graphite can be found at most hobby and hardware shops, or you can scrape or crush pencil lead if you want.

-scoff

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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2016 7:50 pm 
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Country: United Kingdom
scoffman wrote:
88reaper88 wrote:
For a better finish, swap the dry-brushing step for brushing a crushed up pencil lead on. It gives a great metallic sheen and let's the black show though too. You WILL need to spray a top coat over it though.

I agree with reaper, powdered graphite works GREAT in making a metallic paint look even more realistic! You can add a little at a time and rub it in, and remove it if you need to. Just be careful and add it a little bit at a time so you don't get excess powder on areas you don't want. Here's an example of a project I did a few years back. It's a Blade Runner PKD blaster I picked up used; whoever assembled the kit pretty much painted the whole thing other than the trigger guard and grip butt plate flat black with either enamel or acrylic paint. I repainted the trigger guard, the butt plate and the ejection port with a stainless steel enamel and then painted over all the flat black areas with clear gloss acrylic. I then used a number of layers of powered graphite on the guard, butt plate, ejection port and barrel sections (which were still painted black.) After a bit of other weathering, this is what I ended up with, just to give you an idea (sorry the front end is a bit out of focus):

Image
Image

I really liked how the "texture" came out. It's not perfect, but it's a LOT better than the original flat black paint job that it had!

Powered graphite can be found at most hobby and hardware shops, or you can scrape or crush pencil lead if you want.

-scoff


That looks great, thanks for sharing your pics. Don't think i will get anywhere near that on my first go though! :)

_________________
"People complain about the bad things that happen to 'em that they dont deserve but they seldom mention the good. About what they done to deserve them things. I dont recall that i ever give the good Lord all that much cause to smile on me. But he did." - 'No Country For Old Men'.


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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2016 10:05 pm 
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Location: Lancashire (Wirral born)
Service Number: A04/TQ1.0.32156E1
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You will!! That's the beauty of the graphite technique!!!

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