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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2019 1:20 pm 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
Thats what I was warning against using. Think about this, how are you going to tighten down that bolt into the handles centerpiece? Not easily .


with a longer bolt which is what I said? would that not work?


When you get the item in, let me know how you manage it.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2019 1:44 pm 
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Will do!


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 4:55 am 
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I've created a monster:

https://imgur.com/a/YL53Mi9

Still waiting on that rail for the carry handle, but might end up having to get a different one.

Also I was thinking I could put a nut with a washer on either side of the plastic the bolt goes into to lock it down.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 5:15 am 
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What do you think about this to go around the carry handle? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NcStar-M-Lok ... Swd4xbtTck

Unless it comes apart in two peices I am not sure how I would get it around the handle though but it looks like it'd fit and do the job nicely. additional side rails too.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 3:22 pm 

Location: U.S.A.
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paradoxum wrote:
What do you think about this to go around the carry handle? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NcStar-M-Lok ... Swd4xbtTck

Unless it comes apart in two peices I am not sure how I would get it around the handle though but it looks like it'd fit and do the job nicely. additional side rails too.


I think that you are overthinking it, all you need is a simple picatinny rail installation.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 4:23 pm 
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Yeah probably. I'm going overboard with adding stuff to it. Still waiting on the rail I bought to arrive and will get that done as soon as I can.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NcStar-M-Lok ... Swd4xbtTck

you think this scope looks like a good fit for the PR? I think it matches the aesthetic as opposed to a traditional circular type scope


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 8:17 pm 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
Yeah probably. I'm going overboard with adding stuff to it. Still waiting on the rail I bought to arrive and will get that done as soon as I can.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NcStar-M-Lok ... Swd4xbtTck

you think this scope looks like a good fit for the PR? I think it matches the aesthetic as opposed to a traditional circular type scope


You posted the Mlock rail again.

This is the 2x red dot scope that I use on both my M4 and my PR, its got tons of eye relief, it holds its point well, ots tough, and its dirt cheap.

https://www.airsoftgi.com/product/Lance ... ack-31895/


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 10:02 pm 
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Thanks. I'm still waiting for that rail I bought from china to arrive, but looking around I think it's my best bet - I'll attach it to the center bit of plastic using a long bolt and some washers/knuts on either side, tight enough and it should be stable enough for an optic ( https://extreemtactical.com/ncstar-vdel ... scope-tan/ ) (mostly just aesthetics, I got an eotech replica for my SCAR-H and I can't see anything through it but my own reflection, it's all 'rule of cool' here)


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2019 12:46 am 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
Thanks. I'm still waiting for that rail I bought from china to arrive, but looking around I think it's my best bet - I'll attach it to the center bit of plastic using a long bolt and some washers/knuts on either side, tight enough and it should be stable enough for an optic ( https://extreemtactical.com/ncstar-vdel ... scope-tan/ ) (mostly just aesthetics, I got an eotech replica for my SCAR-H and I can't see anything through it but my own reflection, it's all 'rule of cool' here)


I still think your going to find that you are doing more work than if you had put a regular rail with a nut and bolt but its your fun.

Just remember that rule of cool falls to the wayside when On point and operational comes to town :)


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2019 12:51 am 
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Whamhammer wrote:
paradoxum wrote:
Thanks. I'm still waiting for that rail I bought from china to arrive, but looking around I think it's my best bet - I'll attach it to the center bit of plastic using a long bolt and some washers/knuts on either side, tight enough and it should be stable enough for an optic ( https://extreemtactical.com/ncstar-vdel ... scope-tan/ ) (mostly just aesthetics, I got an eotech replica for my SCAR-H and I can't see anything through it but my own reflection, it's all 'rule of cool' here)


I still think your going to find that you are doing more work than if you had put a regular rail with a nut and bolt but its your fun.

Just remember that rule of cool falls to the wayside when On point and operational comes to town :)


Do you think this rail is really going to be that much harder to affix? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3275907 ... 4c4dvJTX0D

Still waiting for it to arrive but I can't foresee any problems. It would be nice if it had 2x mount points though.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2019 1:24 am 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
Whamhammer wrote:
paradoxum wrote:
Thanks. I'm still waiting for that rail I bought from china to arrive, but looking around I think it's my best bet - I'll attach it to the center bit of plastic using a long bolt and some washers/knuts on either side, tight enough and it should be stable enough for an optic ( https://extreemtactical.com/ncstar-vdel ... scope-tan/ ) (mostly just aesthetics, I got an eotech replica for my SCAR-H and I can't see anything through it but my own reflection, it's all 'rule of cool' here)


I still think your going to find that you are doing more work than if you had put a regular rail with a nut and bolt but its your fun.

Just remember that rule of cool falls to the wayside when On point and operational comes to town :)


Do you think this rail is really going to be that much harder to affix? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3275907 ... 4c4dvJTX0D

Still waiting for it to arrive but I can't foresee any problems. It would be nice if it had 2x mount points though.


I do, thats why I keep saying it :)

You’ll see when it comes in.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2019 5:37 am 
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Whamhammer wrote:
Thanks. I'm still waiting for that rail I bought from china to arrive, but looking around I think it's my best bet - I'll attach it to the center bit of plastic using a long bolt and some washers/knuts on either side, tight enough and it should be stable enough for an optic ( https://extreemtactical.com/ncstar-vdel ... scope-tan/ ) (mostly just aesthetics, I got an eotech replica for my SCAR-H and I can't see anything through it but my own reflection, it's all 'rule of cool' here)


I still think your going to find that you are doing more work than if you had put a regular rail with a nut and bolt but its your fun.

Just remember that rule of cool falls to the wayside when On point and operational comes to town :)[/quote]

Do you think this rail is really going to be that much harder to affix? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3275907 ... 4c4dvJTX0D

Still waiting for it to arrive but I can't foresee any problems. It would be nice if it had 2x mount points though.[/quote]

I do, thats why I keep saying it :)

You’ll see when it comes in.[/quote]

Thanks. I've got a 285mm madbull barrel which was meant for my scar-h but doesn't look like I'll be getting for a while - can I swap it with the PR barrel and would it be an upgrade even though it's 20mm shorter or something like that? (I think it needs 300mm length?) or just buy a new one for it?

thanks warh


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2019 8:14 pm 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
Whamhammer wrote:
Thanks. I'm still waiting for that rail I bought from china to arrive, but looking around I think it's my best bet - I'll attach it to the center bit of plastic using a long bolt and some washers/knuts on either side, tight enough and it should be stable enough for an optic ( https://extreemtactical.com/ncstar-vdel ... scope-tan/ ) (mostly just aesthetics, I got an eotech replica for my SCAR-H and I can't see anything through it but my own reflection, it's all 'rule of cool' here)


I still think your going to find that you are doing more work than if you had put a regular rail with a nut and bolt but its your fun.

Just remember that rule of cool falls to the wayside when On point and operational comes to town :)


Do you think this rail is really going to be that much harder to affix? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3275907 ... 4c4dvJTX0D

Still waiting for it to arrive but I can't foresee any problems. It would be nice if it had 2x mount points though.[/quote]

I do, thats why I keep saying it :)

You’ll see when it comes in.[/quote]

Thanks. I've got a 285mm madbull barrel which was meant for my scar-h but doesn't look like I'll be getting for a while - can I swap it with the PR barrel and would it be an upgrade even though it's 20mm shorter or something like that? (I think it needs 300mm length?) or just buy a new one for it?

thanks warh[/quote]

The difference between a 285mm and 300mm inner barrel shouldn't be dramatic, the quality of the barrel, bucking and nub is going to be the most important thing. Either length will be a noticeable improvement of the stock brass (probably 270mm) inner barrel. Be sure to have the outside of the inner wrapped with either electrical tape or teflon tape to reduce vibration of the inner barrel inside of the outer barrel.

Its better to have an inner barrel that is close in length of the outer, the PR could take a 363mm but the longest that can be used before interference with the ammo counter IR sensor is around 340mm; I would have used a 330-340mm inner but havent seen any quality AEG inner barrels of those lengths, so I could take advantage of a “less ported” cylinder more, and shoot heavier shot better.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 31, 2019 11:34 pm 
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Thanks, I'll just buy another madbull 300mm barrel - 6.03 version 2 (or 6.01?)

What is the version of the gearbox in the snow wolf for when looking at parts etc?

I just bought these:

- (M41A) Maple Leaf Hop Up Tensioner (Omega Nub) - £6.00
- (M41A) Maple Leaf Macaron Hop Rubber Bucking 60 Degrees (AEG) - £7.50

Looking for a replacement motor (any suggestions?) and I'm gonna buy this barrel soon; https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/ ... 3m1a1300mm

MadBull 6.03mm (300mm) Black Python Tight Bore AEG Barrel (Version 2)
Reference: MB-ACC-BP300
Price: £36.00
Qty In Stock: 1
Location: MA-R3-S1-P7-D0

You say "I would have used a 330-340mm inner but havent seen any quality AEG inner barrels of those lengths, so I could take advantage of a “less ported” cylinder more, and shoot heavier shot better." would it be worth getting a 363mm barrel and using my electric saw to shorten it and dremel the cut ending so it's smooth, or just go with the 300mm?

Gonna go and play sunday with it for the first time (no upgrades sans all the shit I've done to the outside).

Why should I swap the wiring on the battery connector to deans? (and also the batteries themselves?)

Right now mostly looking for what motor I should get. planning to do a full stripdown and replace the barrel/hopup stuff/some other mods like a thin metal tube where the battery goes to slide in/out easier, red plexi over the counter, swap the wiring for lower gauge wiring in some places - eg the ammo counter wires are so thin I am afraid of snapping them everytime I take the thing apart.

Any other quick / cheap suggestions I can do myself while doing that? you've talked about a mosfet before, is there one you can suggest that would be easy for me to install while I have the gearbox opened up and would be an improvement over the stock gun?

Edit:
https://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/ ... 7014-p.asp will this fit?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B011BSJB6I same one I think on amazon?
Pricey if I get the wrong one and need to return it so just wanna make sure I get the right stuff first time.

Thanks again wh


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 2:57 am 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
Thanks, I'll just buy another madbull 300mm barrel - 6.03 version 2 (or 6.01?)

What is the version of the gearbox in the snow wolf for when looking at parts etc?

I just bought these:

- (M41A) Maple Leaf Hop Up Tensioner (Omega Nub) - £6.00
- (M41A) Maple Leaf Macaron Hop Rubber Bucking 60 Degrees (AEG) - £7.50

Looking for a replacement motor (any suggestions?) and I'm gonna buy this barrel soon; https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/ ... 3m1a1300mm

MadBull 6.03mm (300mm) Black Python Tight Bore AEG Barrel (Version 2)
Reference: MB-ACC-BP300
Price: £36.00
Qty In Stock: 1
Location: MA-R3-S1-P7-D0

You say "I would have used a 330-340mm inner but havent seen any quality AEG inner barrels of those lengths, so I could take advantage of a “less ported” cylinder more, and shoot heavier shot better." would it be worth getting a 363mm barrel and using my electric saw to shorten it and dremel the cut ending so it's smooth, or just go with the 300mm?

Gonna go and play sunday with it for the first time (no upgrades sans all the shit I've done to the outside).

Why should I swap the wiring on the battery connector to deans? (and also the batteries themselves?)

Right now mostly looking for what motor I should get. planning to do a full stripdown and replace the barrel/hopup stuff/some other mods like a thin metal tube where the battery goes to slide in/out easier, red plexi over the counter, swap the wiring for lower gauge wiring in some places - eg the ammo counter wires are so thin I am afraid of snapping them everytime I take the thing apart.

Any other quick / cheap suggestions I can do myself while doing that? you've talked about a mosfet before, is there one you can suggest that would be easy for me to install while I have the gearbox opened up and would be an improvement over the stock gun?

Edit:
https://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/ ... 7014-p.asp will this fit?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B011BSJB6I same one I think on amazon?
Pricey if I get the wrong one and need to return it so just wanna make sure I get the right stuff first time.

Thanks again wh


All Thompsons/M41A1 Pulse Rifles are equipped with a Version 6 gearbox, that is specific for the Thompsons by way of its distinct motor cage (fit into the pistol grip). P90’s, and FN2000’s also use a version 6 but have a different motor cage and motor position. The trigger assembly for Version 6’s is external (a big improvement over Version 2’s), and each type of weapon has its own trigger type, selector plates, and cutoff levers.

Internally, as far as I can tell, the Thompson uses a different cylinder head that the P90/FN2000 does but I don’t recommend changing the Cylinder head or the nozzle out, just make sure that the cylinder head seals solid. The tappet plate, and anti-reversal latch are distinct to the V6, as is the middle gear (forgot the name) and middle gear bushing (oval shaped), the rest of the gearbox internals are more or less the same as a Version 2 or 3 gearbox parts. Even though the piston is plastic toothed, I like that the first two teeth are removed to improve engagement with the gear teeth (at least the two PR gearboxes and three Thompson gearboxes that I have torn down).

The reason I recommend changing over the connections to Deans is that Tamiya connectors don't make a very solid connection, and Deans do; trigger response will be a little bit better, and energy consumption will be a little less. The second benefit is that most of the Gate mosfets come as dean connextions, so they would be plug and play. I really recommend a Gate Warfet because of the controllability it offers, the rate of fire control has been very helpful for me.

I wouldn’t recommend messing with the wiring for the ammo counter, I have had my PR apart a bunch of times and the wires were fine, they dont really need low resistance wiring, they only deal with current in what ends up being a binary signal to the ammo counter, there is next to no draw and I have had the same 9V in mine for 5 years now.

I do not recommend someone without experience cutting down a barrel for one of these guns because of how much of a PITA it is to de/reassemble them. You would first have to make a totally even cut across the barrel, and then crown and deburr it, any mistakes in those processes with end up with an inaccurate barrel. By a M4 and practice on that gun, at least its easy access to the barrel in those. The 300mm barrel will do fine enough, trust me.

Every airsofter that I know who wrenches with their guns agree that 6.01mm barrels are a bad thing, and do not recommend them. Airsoft bb’s are 5.95mm +/- .01mm in diameter; that means that there is less than 1.5/100ths of room inside of a 6.01mm barrel for the bb to have leeway of travel in. If there are any imperfections in the inner barrels finish, or built up dirt, chances are too high that disruption of travel or even worse, a jam can occur in the barrel; the extra volumetric efficiency, and a smidge better grouping, isn't worth the risk of a jam. Thats why most tight bores are 6.03mm, still more efficient than standard bores, with less maintenance requirements or chances of a jam.


I had once had a Miracle Barrel with a nick in the crown and I could never zero a scope to the gun, went through two of my scoped thinkng something was wrong with them, and bouht a third before noticing the barrel issue.

As far as motors, I would recommend an ASG Infinity U-30,000 rpm, short type, I know for a fact that they are neodymium magnet motors; my PR uses a U-35,000 rpm (which I think is a little too much), the ones you brought up didn't say they were. I know that Krytac 30k rpm motors are neodymium as well but I don't think they have a short type. Although I think that almost anything would be an improvement over the stock motor, this motor and any plastic gearbox bushings are the two big weaknesses of this gearbox.

ASG Infinity U-30,0000:

https://www.evike.com/products/52187/

Action Armies are also very good, but very expensive:

https://www.evike.com/products/95802/


Last edited by Whamhammer on Mon Sep 02, 2019 3:07 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 3:00 am 
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Country: United Kingdom
Whamhammer wrote:
paradoxum wrote:
Thanks, I'll just buy another madbull 300mm barrel - 6.03 version 2 (or 6.01?)

What is the version of the gearbox in the snow wolf for when looking at parts etc?

I just bought these:

- (M41A) Maple Leaf Hop Up Tensioner (Omega Nub) - £6.00
- (M41A) Maple Leaf Macaron Hop Rubber Bucking 60 Degrees (AEG) - £7.50

Looking for a replacement motor (any suggestions?) and I'm gonna buy this barrel soon; https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/ ... 3m1a1300mm

MadBull 6.03mm (300mm) Black Python Tight Bore AEG Barrel (Version 2)
Reference: MB-ACC-BP300
Price: £36.00
Qty In Stock: 1
Location: MA-R3-S1-P7-D0

You say "I would have used a 330-340mm inner but havent seen any quality AEG inner barrels of those lengths, so I could take advantage of a “less ported” cylinder more, and shoot heavier shot better." would it be worth getting a 363mm barrel and using my electric saw to shorten it and dremel the cut ending so it's smooth, or just go with the 300mm?

Gonna go and play sunday with it for the first time (no upgrades sans all the shit I've done to the outside).

Why should I swap the wiring on the battery connector to deans? (and also the batteries themselves?)

Right now mostly looking for what motor I should get. planning to do a full stripdown and replace the barrel/hopup stuff/some other mods like a thin metal tube where the battery goes to slide in/out easier, red plexi over the counter, swap the wiring for lower gauge wiring in some places - eg the ammo counter wires are so thin I am afraid of snapping them everytime I take the thing apart.

Any other quick / cheap suggestions I can do myself while doing that? you've talked about a mosfet before, is there one you can suggest that would be easy for me to install while I have the gearbox opened up and would be an improvement over the stock gun?

Edit:
https://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/ ... 7014-p.asp will this fit?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B011BSJB6I same one I think on amazon?
Pricey if I get the wrong one and need to return it so just wanna make sure I get the right stuff first time.

Thanks again wh


All Thompsons/M41A1 Pulse Rifles are equipped with a Version 6 gearbox, that is specific for the Thompsons by way of its distinct motor cage (fit into the pistol grip). P90’s, and FN2000’s also use a version 6 but have a different motor cage and motor position. The trigger assembly for Version 6’s is external (a big improvement over Version 2’s), and each type of weapon has its own trigger type, selector plates, and cutoff levers.

Internally, as far as I can tell, the Thompson uses a different cylinder head that the P90/FN2000 does but I don’t recommend changing the Cylinder head or the nozzle out, just make sure that the cylinder head seals solid. The tappet plate, and anti-reversal latch are distinct to the V6, as is the middle gear (forgot the name) and middle gear bushing (oval shaped), the rest of the gearbox internals are more or less the same as a Version 2 or 3 gearbox parts. Even though the piston is plastic toothed, I like that the first two teeth are removed to improve engagement with the gear teeth (at least the two PR gearboxes and three Thompson gearboxes that I have torn down).

The reason I recommend changing over the connections to Deans is that Tamiya connectors don't make a very solid connection, and Deans do; trigger response will be a little bit better, and energy consumption will be a little less. The second benefit is that most of the Gate mosfets come as dean connextions, so they would be plug and play. I really recommend a Gate Warfet because of the controllability it offers, the rate of fire control has been very helpful for me.

I wouldn’t recommend messing with the wiring for the ammo counter, I have had my PR apart a bunch of times and the wires were fine, they dont really need low resistance wiring, they only deal with current
in what ends up being a binary signal to the ammo counter, there is next to no draw and I have had the same 9V in mine for 5 years now.

I do not recommend someone without experience cutting down a barrel for one of these guns because of how much of a PITA it is to de/reassemble them. You would first have to make a totally even cut across the barrel, and then crown and deburr it, any mistakes in those processes with end up with an inaccurate barrel. By a M4 and practice on that gun, at least its easy access to the barrel in those. The 300mm barrel will do fine enough, trust me.

I had once had a Miracle Barrel with a nick in the crown and I could never zero a scope to the gun, went through two of my scoped thinkng something was wrong with them, and bouht a third before noticing the barrel issue.

As far as motors, I would recommend an ASG Infinity U-30,000 rpm, short type, I know for a fact that they are neodymium magnet motors; my PR uses a U-35,000 rpm (which I think is a little too much), the ones you brought up didn't say they were. I know that Krytac 30k rpm motors are neodymium as well but I don't think they have a short type. Although I think that almost anything would be an improvement over the stock motor, this motor and any plastic gearbox bushings are the two big weaknesses of this gearbox.

ASG Infinity U-30,0000:

https://www.evike.com/products/52187/

Action Armies are also very good, but very expensive:

https://www.evike.com/products/95802/


Thanks. will get to this later, just wanted to share a vid of me playing bit with it today before I had to tap out from heat exhaustion; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFB2npPKR7o

Definitely planning to remove the stuff on the rails. Gun is heavy enough as it is, won't use them ever, and makes peeking hard. I would like more accuracy though, there's a bit in the vid where I fire a couple bursts at a guys head sticking out but they miss completely :( will barrel/nubs etc help with accuracy?


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 3:46 am 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
Whamhammer wrote:
paradoxum wrote:
Thanks, I'll just buy another madbull 300mm barrel - 6.03 version 2 (or 6.01?)

What is the version of the gearbox in the snow wolf for when looking at parts etc?

I just bought these:

- (M41A) Maple Leaf Hop Up Tensioner (Omega Nub) - £6.00
- (M41A) Maple Leaf Macaron Hop Rubber Bucking 60 Degrees (AEG) - £7.50

Looking for a replacement motor (any suggestions?) and I'm gonna buy this barrel soon; https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/ ... 3m1a1300mm

MadBull 6.03mm (300mm) Black Python Tight Bore AEG Barrel (Version 2)
Reference: MB-ACC-BP300
Price: £36.00
Qty In Stock: 1
Location: MA-R3-S1-P7-D0

You say "I would have used a 330-340mm inner but havent seen any quality AEG inner barrels of those lengths, so I could take advantage of a “less ported” cylinder more, and shoot heavier shot better." would it be worth getting a 363mm barrel and using my electric saw to shorten it and dremel the cut ending so it's smooth, or just go with the 300mm?

Gonna go and play sunday with it for the first time (no upgrades sans all the shit I've done to the outside).

Why should I swap the wiring on the battery connector to deans? (and also the batteries themselves?)

Right now mostly looking for what motor I should get. planning to do a full stripdown and replace the barrel/hopup stuff/some other mods like a thin metal tube where the battery goes to slide in/out easier, red plexi over the counter, swap the wiring for lower gauge wiring in some places - eg the ammo counter wires are so thin I am afraid of snapping them everytime I take the thing apart.

Any other quick / cheap suggestions I can do myself while doing that? you've talked about a mosfet before, is there one you can suggest that would be easy for me to install while I have the gearbox opened up and would be an improvement over the stock gun?

Edit:
https://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/ ... 7014-p.asp will this fit?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B011BSJB6I same one I think on amazon?
Pricey if I get the wrong one and need to return it so just wanna make sure I get the right stuff first time.

Thanks again wh


All Thompsons/M41A1 Pulse Rifles are equipped with a Version 6 gearbox, that is specific for the Thompsons by way of its distinct motor cage (fit into the pistol grip). P90’s, and FN2000’s also use a version 6 but have a different motor cage and motor position. The trigger assembly for Version 6’s is external (a big improvement over Version 2’s), and each type of weapon has its own trigger type, selector plates, and cutoff levers.

Internally, as far as I can tell, the Thompson uses a different cylinder head that the P90/FN2000 does but I don’t recommend changing the Cylinder head or the nozzle out, just make sure that the cylinder head seals solid. The tappet plate, and anti-reversal latch are distinct to the V6, as is the middle gear (forgot the name) and middle gear bushing (oval shaped), the rest of the gearbox internals are more or less the same as a Version 2 or 3 gearbox parts. Even though the piston is plastic toothed, I like that the first two teeth are removed to improve engagement with the gear teeth (at least the two PR gearboxes and three Thompson gearboxes that I have torn down).

The reason I recommend changing over the connections to Deans is that Tamiya connectors don't make a very solid connection, and Deans do; trigger response will be a little bit better, and energy consumption will be a little less. The second benefit is that most of the Gate mosfets come as dean connextions, so they would be plug and play. I really recommend a Gate Warfet because of the controllability it offers, the rate of fire control has been very helpful for me.

I wouldn’t recommend messing with the wiring for the ammo counter, I have had my PR apart a bunch of times and the wires were fine, they dont really need low resistance wiring, they only deal with current
in what ends up being a binary signal to the ammo counter, there is next to no draw and I have had the same 9V in mine for 5 years now.

I do not recommend someone without experience cutting down a barrel for one of these guns because of how much of a PITA it is to de/reassemble them. You would first have to make a totally even cut across the barrel, and then crown and deburr it, any mistakes in those processes with end up with an inaccurate barrel. By a M4 and practice on that gun, at least its easy access to the barrel in those. The 300mm barrel will do fine enough, trust me.

I had once had a Miracle Barrel with a nick in the crown and I could never zero a scope to the gun, went through two of my scoped thinkng something was wrong with them, and bouht a third before noticing the barrel issue.

As far as motors, I would recommend an ASG Infinity U-30,000 rpm, short type, I know for a fact that they are neodymium magnet motors; my PR uses a U-35,000 rpm (which I think is a little too much), the ones you brought up didn't say they were. I know that Krytac 30k rpm motors are neodymium as well but I don't think they have a short type. Although I think that almost anything would be an improvement over the stock motor, this motor and any plastic gearbox bushings are the two big weaknesses of this gearbox.

ASG Infinity U-30,0000:

https://www.evike.com/products/52187/

Action Armies are also very good, but very expensive:

https://www.evike.com/products/95802/


Thanks. will get to this later, just wanted to share a vid of me playing bit with it today before I had to tap out from heat exhaustion; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFB2npPKR7o

Definitely planning to remove the stuff on the rails. Gun is heavy enough as it is, won't use them ever, and makes peeking hard. I would like more accuracy though, there's a bit in the vid where I fire a couple bursts at a guys head sticking out but they miss completely :( will barrel/nubs etc help with accuracy?


Be sure to re-read the post above yours, as Inwas editing as you posted tour response, some extra info in there.

A few comments on the video:

Dude, your refs need to stay more out of the way, they can ref from a little bit further away than that, and not be an obstacle and a dead giveaway to the other side that the tef is near an enemy player. They are in poor form.

Early on, I saw you make a mistake that many players have as a bad habit, you had you whole body facing rearward towards you rear lines, its very easy for friendly fire to happen when you do that because you are now facing you rearward troops and can appear to be the OPFOR, especially when there arent any uniform constraints to help ID who is who (arm bands are only partially effective). I got two friendly fire kills this Saturday because people had full facing to me and I couldnt properly ID them durong fog-of-war. You also arent able to see if your about to get visited buy an enemy that way. Get some knee pads, take a knee forward, or go prone towards the enemy position; If you need to see behind you, turn your torso towards the side and turn your head, youll find yourself being in the game better.

Its good that you actually used cover and just didnt stand behind it, I see to many people doing that and I pick them off with glee. Standing at human height is asking to get shot. In airsoft, most people do t have thier hop up done totally right, and cant shoot low enough to hit a person that is against the ground without the bbs going vertical at the last moment, use it to your advantage.

You are going to love midcaps, no winding! King Arms 110 shot Midcaps are the better of the two midcaps available. I do think you didn't wind your midcaps enough though I think you were only getting about 20 shots before having to rewind, shouldve been a bit more. Remember: short, controlled bursts! :)

You will definitely benefit from a 2x or 3x magnified red dot, you might even be able to take peope down on semi with a few shots. I like the scope I posted below for up to 200 feet, you can even find them on ebay and amazon for about $25.00 US, pretty cheap and pretty good.

https://www.airsoftgi.com/product/Lance ... ack-31895/

Get a two-point, non-bungee, sling, and tension it so its giving you support when your rifle is “at the ready”, it will take some weight of the gun off of your arms and shoulder and the sling will act as another means of steadying the gun. Pass the sling from the front to your weak shoulder, around the back, to your rear sling point of your rifle, on your strong side. You will feel the difference and improvement.


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 4:09 am 
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Country: United Kingdom
Whamhammer wrote:
Be sure to re-read the post above yours, as Inwas editing as you posted tour response, some extra info in there.

A few comments on the video:

Dude, your refs need to stay more out of the way, they can ref from a little bit further away than that, and not be an obstacle and a dead giveaway to the other side that the tef is near an enemy player. They are in poor form.

Early on, I saw you make a mistake that many players have as a bad habit, you had you whole body facing rearward towards you rear lines, its very easy for friendly fire to happen when you do that because you are now facing you rearward troops and can appear to be the OPFOR, especially when there arent any uniform constraints to help ID who is who (arm bands are only partially effective). I got two friendly fire kills this Saturday because people had full facing to me and I couldnt properly ID them durong fog-of-war. You also arent able to see if your about to get visited buy an enemy that way. Get some knee pads, take a knee forward, or go prone towards the enemy position; If you need to see behind you, turn your torso towards the side and turn your head, youll find yourself being in the game better.

Its good that you actually used cover and just didnt stand behind it, I see to many people doing that and I pick them off with glee. Standing at human height is asking to get shot. In airsoft, most people do t have thier hop up done totally right, and cant shoot low enough to hit a person that is against the ground without the bbs going vertical at the last moment, use it to your advantage.

You are going to love midcaps, no winding! King Arms 110 shot Midcaps are the better of the two midcaps available. I do think you didn't wind your midcaps enough though I think you were only getting about 20 shots before having to rewind, shouldve been a bit more. Remember: short, controlled bursts! :)

You will definitely benefit from a 2x or 3x magnified red dot, you might even be able to take peope down on semi with a few shots. I like the scope I posted below for up to 200 feet, you can even find them on ebay and amazon for about $25.00 US, pretty cheap and pretty good.

https://www.airsoftgi.com/product/Lance ... ack-31895/

Get a two-point, non-bungee, sling, and tension it so its giving you support when your rifle is “at the ready”, it will take some weight of the gun off of your arms and shoulder and the sling will act as another means of steadying the gun. Pass the sling from the front to your weak shoulder, around the back, to your rear sling point of your rifle, on your strong side. You will feel the difference and improvement.


Thanks for the pointers. That match in the video was to escort the guy on the bike forward to the enemy fort, and then down to the right to the next one, then across to the next, and so on, which is why he was there so close. Also I get what you're saying about facing the team but we were all headed towards the fort there on the field and the defenders couldn't advance so seemed ok.

Even using cover I got hit at one point I think it hit my helmet, I was all mil-sim-type geared up and 70% of the other players just had bare minimum stuff (were a few fully kitted out guys like me with headsets and such), but just felt like a huge target with my helm, especially cause my camera is white - need to get a black gopro. About 1:50min in you can see me get hit by a sniper, managed to somehow nail me in the 1cm gap between the mask and goggles, bled a little, but eh, not unexpected ( https://i.imgur.com/27zl33w.jpg ) - just didn't think it'd do that much damage from so far away, and everyones guns are chronod to be below 400fps I think.

When I was running for cover and heard BBs flying past I slid on the grass to the cover and crawled the rest of the way and avoided getting hit, but wasn't because of 'done totally right, and cant shoot low enough to hit a person that is against the ground without the bbs going vertical at the last moment, use it to your advantage.', just seemed the thing to do.

My pants have kneepads on! https://imgur.com/a/6rLXJpE old-ish pics.

>Remember: short, controlled bursts! :)
heh!

I think when I was spraying in the vid I was just peppering the top of the fort to get the defenders to hide, suppressing fire to help the team move up, I wasn't expecting to actually hit anything then.

I think that's how I have the sling, I've got a double bungee one but I found myself having to lengthen it because using the stock fully extended and using the sling to brace the gun against me shooting at targets in the back yard is way different to shooting at people, I ended up sometimes just having the stock underneath my armpit (the spring/locking mechanism broke a while ago so I screwed it into place fully extended, because if I am taking my time to take a shot that's the best place for it.

I was mostly very exhausted (didn't sleep the night before) and also my eyewear kept fogging up so I could hardly see shit - and when I could I was wishing I had a scope so I could see where people were, still waiting for the rail to try attaching to the top.

Thanks again.


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 Post subject: Re: Snow wolf/matrix Pulse rifle upgrades
PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 9:51 am 
User avatar

Country: United Kingdom
Oh one other thing. I kinda wanna pick up a cheap shotgun to mount on the back of my hydration pouch so I can be all "I like to keep this handy" etc, it's an Ithaca Model 37 but I can't find *any* anywhere to buy.

The closest looking ones I can find are:
https://www.airsoftzone.com/de/SAS-12-S ... 6496de987/ (grip not angled but gun looks similar and similar size)

https://www.airsoftzone.com/de/M37-Poli ... 0180de987/ (best bet so far? not looking for replica-realistic, just similar pump action SG mostly for show.)

https://www.airsoftzone.com/de/M870-Sho ... 8647de987/ (grip is a bit long?)

https://www.wgcshop.com/products?search ... w_choice=b (maybe this if it's possible to swap the racking part with a flat grip rather than the stick-out-one?)

open to alternatives. also scabbard ideas?

https://www.evike.com/products/50282/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/VooDoo-Tactica ... B007FGPJK8

take them to a sewing shop and have them do some kinda way to attach it to the hydration pouch on the back? preferably the side, maybe just get them to make some nice molle cuts, modify the scabbard to fit better etc, be nice to easy pull/re-sheath.

harness/back hydration pouch/belt;

https://i.imgur.com/p73PU8E.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QMm4GqS.jpg

I'm left handed so I'd want it on the right side somewhere. would need a good slim scabbard to have it attached to the side somehow;
https://i.imgur.com/LPZDWB8.jpg ?

I could get the large as opposed to medium hydration pouch for the back, might be easier to mount a scabbard on?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Templars-Gear- ... NC2XH?th=1

thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 4:19 pm 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
Whamhammer wrote:
Be sure to re-read the post above yours, as Inwas editing as you posted tour response, some extra info in there.

A few comments on the video:

Dude, your refs need to stay more out of the way, they can ref from a little bit further away than that, and not be an obstacle and a dead giveaway to the other side that the tef is near an enemy player. They are in poor form.

Early on, I saw you make a mistake that many players have as a bad habit, you had you whole body facing rearward towards you rear lines, its very easy for friendly fire to happen when you do that because you are now facing you rearward troops and can appear to be the OPFOR, especially when there arent any uniform constraints to help ID who is who (arm bands are only partially effective). I got two friendly fire kills this Saturday because people had full facing to me and I couldnt properly ID them durong fog-of-war. You also arent able to see if your about to get visited buy an enemy that way. Get some knee pads, take a knee forward, or go prone towards the enemy position; If you need to see behind you, turn your torso towards the side and turn your head, youll find yourself being in the game better.

Its good that you actually used cover and just didnt stand behind it, I see to many people doing that and I pick them off with glee. Standing at human height is asking to get shot. In airsoft, most people do t have thier hop up done totally right, and cant shoot low enough to hit a person that is against the ground without the bbs going vertical at the last moment, use it to your advantage.

You are going to love midcaps, no winding! King Arms 110 shot Midcaps are the better of the two midcaps available. I do think you didn't wind your midcaps enough though I think you were only getting about 20 shots before having to rewind, shouldve been a bit more. Remember: short, controlled bursts! :)

You will definitely benefit from a 2x or 3x magnified red dot, you might even be able to take peope down on semi with a few shots. I like the scope I posted below for up to 200 feet, you can even find them on ebay and amazon for about $25.00 US, pretty cheap and pretty good.

https://www.airsoftgi.com/product/Lance ... ack-31895/

Get a two-point, non-bungee, sling, and tension it so its giving you support when your rifle is “at the ready”, it will take some weight of the gun off of your arms and shoulder and the sling will act as another means of steadying the gun. Pass the sling from the front to your weak shoulder, around the back, to your rear sling point of your rifle, on your strong side. You will feel the difference and improvement.


Thanks for the pointers. That match in the video was to escort the guy on the bike forward to the enemy fort, and then down to the right to the next one, then across to the next, and so on, which is why he was there so close. Also I get what you're saying about facing the team but we were all headed towards the fort there on the field and the defenders couldn't advance so seemed ok.

Even using cover I got hit at one point I think it hit my helmet, I was all mil-sim-type geared up and 70% of the other players just had bare minimum stuff (were a few fully kitted out guys like me with headsets and such), but just felt like a huge target with my helm, especially cause my camera is white - need to get a black gopro. About 1:50min in you can see me get hit by a sniper, managed to somehow nail me in the 1cm gap between the mask and goggles, bled a little, but eh, not unexpected ( https://i.imgur.com/27zl33w.jpg ) - just didn't think it'd do that much damage from so far away, and everyones guns are chronod to be below 400fps I think.

When I was running for cover and heard BBs flying past I slid on the grass to the cover and crawled the rest of the way and avoided getting hit, but wasn't because of 'done totally right, and cant shoot low enough to hit a person that is against the ground without the bbs going vertical at the last moment, use it to your advantage.', just seemed the thing to do.

My pants have kneepads on! https://imgur.com/a/6rLXJpE old-ish pics.

>Remember: short, controlled bursts! :)
heh!

I think when I was spraying in the vid I was just peppering the top of the fort to get the defenders to hide, suppressing fire to help the team move up, I wasn't expecting to actually hit anything then.

I think that's how I have the sling, I've got a double bungee one but I found myself having to lengthen it because using the stock fully extended and using the sling to brace the gun against me shooting at targets in the back yard is way different to shooting at people, I ended up sometimes just having the stock underneath my armpit (the spring/locking mechanism broke a while ago so I screwed it into place fully extended, because if I am taking my time to take a shot that's the best place for it.

I was mostly very exhausted (didn't sleep the night before) and also my eyewear kept fogging up so I could hardly see shit - and when I could I was wishing I had a scope so I could see where people were, still waiting for the rail to try attaching to the top.

Thanks again.


Yeah, with the small capacity in the smaller hicaps even when fully wound, more than a few short bursts in full auto makes suppressing less than optimal, the 110 round midcaps work a lot better for that, the longer hicaps are a little bit better than that the shorter ones but its that whole having to wind up thing right when you need to take a shot that makes it not as fun.

I rarely wear a helmet, when I do its most likely on cold days, if I was more of a run and gun guy, Id probably do it more just to give a little protection if I take a spill. I usually wear a Boonie because they are light, afford a little protection from random bbs (not much) and aren't an obvious and offensive shape in nature, so they are good for being in concealment with.

As far as fogging up, I put two 20mm server fans on the top of either side of my goggles, and used a soldering iron for making small ventilation holes, I have my fans wired to a 3 or 4 AA battery battery pack, and a push button on off switch, the packs are attached to what ever head gear that I am wearing, and all connections are made with Deans, so I can break the equipment down and move it to other head gear. I dont get too much in the way of foggin up anymore, and I even wear glasses under the goggles.


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 Post subject: Re: Snow wolf/matrix Pulse rifle upgrades
PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 6:02 pm 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
Oh one other thing. I kinda wanna pick up a cheap shotgun to mount on the back of my hydration pouch so I can be all "I like to keep this handy" etc, it's an Ithaca Model 37 but I can't find *any* anywhere to buy.

The closest looking ones I can find are:
https://www.airsoftzone.com/de/SAS-12-S ... 6496de987/ (grip not angled but gun looks similar and similar size)

https://www.airsoftzone.com/de/M37-Poli ... 0180de987/ (best bet so far? not looking for replica-realistic, just similar pump action SG mostly for show.)

https://www.airsoftzone.com/de/M870-Sho ... 8647de987/ (grip is a bit long?)

https://www.wgcshop.com/products?search ... w_choice=b (maybe this if it's possible to swap the racking part with a flat grip rather than the stick-out-one?)

open to alternatives. also scabbard ideas?

https://www.evike.com/products/50282/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/VooDoo-Tactica ... B007FGPJK8

take them to a sewing shop and have them do some kinda way to attach it to the hydration pouch on the back? preferably the side, maybe just get them to make some nice molle cuts, modify the scabbard to fit better etc, be nice to easy pull/re-sheath.

harness/back hydration pouch/belt;

https://i.imgur.com/p73PU8E.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QMm4GqS.jpg

I'm left handed so I'd want it on the right side somewhere. would need a good slim scabbard to have it attached to the side somehow;
https://i.imgur.com/LPZDWB8.jpg ?

I could get the large as opposed to medium hydration pouch for the back, might be easier to mount a scabbard on?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Templars-Gear- ... NC2XH?th=1

thanks


I’m not really well informed on wearing scabbards with shotguns; my first thought is if your going to carry a shotgun, why not put it in the PR?


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 Post subject: Re: Snow wolf/matrix Pulse rifle upgrades
PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 11:21 pm 
User avatar

Country: United Kingdom
Whamhammer wrote:
paradoxum wrote:
Oh one other thing. I kinda wanna pick up a cheap shotgun to mount on the back of my hydration pouch so I can be all "I like to keep this handy" etc, it's an Ithaca Model 37 but I can't find *any* anywhere to buy.

The closest looking ones I can find are:
https://www.airsoftzone.com/de/SAS-12-S ... 6496de987/ (grip not angled but gun looks similar and similar size)

https://www.airsoftzone.com/de/M37-Poli ... 0180de987/ (best bet so far? not looking for replica-realistic, just similar pump action SG mostly for show.)

https://www.airsoftzone.com/de/M870-Sho ... 8647de987/ (grip is a bit long?)

https://www.wgcshop.com/products?search ... w_choice=b (maybe this if it's possible to swap the racking part with a flat grip rather than the stick-out-one?)

open to alternatives. also scabbard ideas?

https://www.evike.com/products/50282/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/VooDoo-Tactica ... B007FGPJK8

take them to a sewing shop and have them do some kinda way to attach it to the hydration pouch on the back? preferably the side, maybe just get them to make some nice molle cuts, modify the scabbard to fit better etc, be nice to easy pull/re-sheath.

harness/back hydration pouch/belt;

https://i.imgur.com/p73PU8E.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QMm4GqS.jpg

I'm left handed so I'd want it on the right side somewhere. would need a good slim scabbard to have it attached to the side somehow;
https://i.imgur.com/LPZDWB8.jpg ?

I could get the large as opposed to medium hydration pouch for the back, might be easier to mount a scabbard on?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Templars-Gear- ... NC2XH?th=1

thanks


I’m not really well informed on wearing scabbards with shotguns; my first thought is if your going to carry a shotgun, why not put it in the PR?


Too much work, was planning to do it originally but, yeah, too much work.


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 Post subject: Re: Snow wolf/matrix Pulse rifle upgrades
PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 2:50 am 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
Whamhammer wrote:
paradoxum wrote:
Oh one other thing. I kinda wanna pick up a cheap shotgun to mount on the back of my hydration pouch so I can be all "I like to keep this handy" etc, it's an Ithaca Model 37 but I can't find *any* anywhere to buy.

The closest looking ones I can find are:
https://www.airsoftzone.com/de/SAS-12-S ... 6496de987/ (grip not angled but gun looks similar and similar size)

https://www.airsoftzone.com/de/M37-Poli ... 0180de987/ (best bet so far? not looking for replica-realistic, just similar pump action SG mostly for show.)

https://www.airsoftzone.com/de/M870-Sho ... 8647de987/ (grip is a bit long?)

https://www.wgcshop.com/products?search ... w_choice=b (maybe this if it's possible to swap the racking part with a flat grip rather than the stick-out-one?)

open to alternatives. also scabbard ideas?

https://www.evike.com/products/50282/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/VooDoo-Tactica ... B007FGPJK8

take them to a sewing shop and have them do some kinda way to attach it to the hydration pouch on the back? preferably the side, maybe just get them to make some nice molle cuts, modify the scabbard to fit better etc, be nice to easy pull/re-sheath.

harness/back hydration pouch/belt;

https://i.imgur.com/p73PU8E.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QMm4GqS.jpg

I'm left handed so I'd want it on the right side somewhere. would need a good slim scabbard to have it attached to the side somehow;
https://i.imgur.com/LPZDWB8.jpg ?

I could get the large as opposed to medium hydration pouch for the back, might be easier to mount a scabbard on?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Templars-Gear- ... NC2XH?th=1

thanks


I’m not really well informed on wearing scabbards with shotguns; my first thought is if your going to carry a shotgun, why not put it in the PR?


Too much work, was planning to do it originally but, yeah, too much work.


It can be, I understand that.

The thing with a scabbarded shotgun, I can see it being way too cumbersome versus the benefit. I’d suggest getting a good non-bloc ack pistol that has a fixed hop up and a belt holster (not strapped to the leg).

If you have to do a shotgun, Ive seen a JAG Arms brand stubby Scattershot shotgun that could probably fit in a custon holster or something and you could scabbard that or something.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2019 1:24 am 
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Country: United Kingdom
After playing I realised I don't like the stock being out all the way (even though it's the best if I am still and carefully aiming), the spring mechanism/plastinc inside broke a bit, so I just bolted it open all the way, I would like it to work again though, any suggestions on how to fix? can you get spare parts anywhere? I'll take a pic of what the internal looks like when I next take it apart.
https://i.imgur.com/NvcvB34.jpg
Also I cut a hole in the bottom of the mag cap to wind, but I ended up just taking it off when playing because I couldn't pull the mags out to relaod with it, anywhere in the UK / EU you can get spare caps? Evike has one for 12 bucks but shipping to the uk is even more than the part :/


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2019 2:04 pm 
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Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Service Number: A01/TQ2.0.42137E1
Country: United States
For the shotgun, Dong San makes an Ithaca 37.

I bought mine from RedWolf Airsoft. You can occasionally find them for sale using the HopUp app as well.

The Dong San is skirmishable, but there are better Airsoft shotguns out there if you don't care about being screen accurate.

For a spring gun the CYMA tri-shots are pretty good and come in a number of configurations.

The Maruzen 870s (and copies) are also decent, but they only fire one shot per trigger pull.

For gas, the Marui 870 is awesome.

The S&T shell-eject guns are neat, but for skirmishing not really practical because of the shell ejection.

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