paradoxum wrote:
Thanks, I'll just buy another madbull 300mm barrel - 6.03 version 2 (or 6.01?)
What is the version of the gearbox in the snow wolf for when looking at parts etc?
I just bought these:
- (M41A) Maple Leaf Hop Up Tensioner (Omega Nub) - £6.00
- (M41A) Maple Leaf Macaron Hop Rubber Bucking 60 Degrees (AEG) - £7.50
Looking for a replacement motor (any suggestions?) and I'm gonna buy this barrel soon;
https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/ ... 3m1a1300mmMadBull 6.03mm (300mm) Black Python Tight Bore AEG Barrel (Version 2)
Reference: MB-ACC-BP300
Price: £36.00
Qty In Stock: 1
Location: MA-R3-S1-P7-D0
You say "I would have used a 330-340mm inner but havent seen any quality AEG inner barrels of those lengths, so I could take advantage of a “less ported” cylinder more, and shoot heavier shot better." would it be worth getting a 363mm barrel and using my electric saw to shorten it and dremel the cut ending so it's smooth, or just go with the 300mm?
Gonna go and play sunday with it for the first time (no upgrades sans all the shit I've done to the outside).
Why should I swap the wiring on the battery connector to deans? (and also the batteries themselves?)
Right now mostly looking for what motor I should get. planning to do a full stripdown and replace the barrel/hopup stuff/some other mods like a thin metal tube where the battery goes to slide in/out easier, red plexi over the counter, swap the wiring for lower gauge wiring in some places - eg the ammo counter wires are so thin I am afraid of snapping them everytime I take the thing apart.
Any other quick / cheap suggestions I can do myself while doing that? you've talked about a mosfet before, is there one you can suggest that would be easy for me to install while I have the gearbox opened up and would be an improvement over the stock gun?
Edit:
https://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/ ... 7014-p.asp will this fit?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B011BSJB6I same one I think on amazon?
Pricey if I get the wrong one and need to return it so just wanna make sure I get the right stuff first time.
Thanks again wh
All Thompsons/M41A1 Pulse Rifles are equipped with a Version 6 gearbox, that is specific for the Thompsons by way of its distinct motor cage (fit into the pistol grip). P90’s, and FN2000’s also use a version 6 but have a different motor cage and motor position. The trigger assembly for Version 6’s is external (a big improvement over Version 2’s), and each type of weapon has its own trigger type, selector plates, and cutoff levers.
Internally, as far as I can tell, the Thompson uses a different cylinder head that the P90/FN2000 does but I don’t recommend changing the Cylinder head or the nozzle out, just make sure that the cylinder head seals solid. The tappet plate, and anti-reversal latch are distinct to the V6, as is the middle gear (forgot the name) and middle gear bushing (oval shaped), the rest of the gearbox internals are more or less the same as a Version 2 or 3 gearbox parts. Even though the piston is plastic toothed, I like that the first two teeth are removed to improve engagement with the gear teeth (at least the two PR gearboxes and three Thompson gearboxes that I have torn down).
The reason I recommend changing over the connections to Deans is that Tamiya connectors don't make a very solid connection, and Deans do; trigger response will be a little bit better, and energy consumption will be a little less. The second benefit is that most of the Gate mosfets come as dean connextions, so they would be plug and play. I really recommend a Gate Warfet because of the controllability it offers, the rate of fire control has been very helpful for me.
I wouldn’t recommend messing with the wiring for the ammo counter, I have had my PR apart a bunch of times and the wires were fine, they dont really need low resistance wiring, they only deal with current in what ends up being a binary signal to the ammo counter, there is next to no draw and I have had the same 9V in mine for 5 years now.
I do not recommend someone without experience cutting down a barrel for one of these guns because of how much of a PITA it is to de/reassemble them. You would first have to make a totally even cut across the barrel, and then crown and deburr it, any mistakes in those processes with end up with an inaccurate barrel. By a M4 and practice on that gun, at least its easy access to the barrel in those. The 300mm barrel will do fine enough, trust me.
Every airsofter that I know who wrenches with their guns agree that 6.01mm barrels are a bad thing, and do not recommend them. Airsoft bb’s are 5.95mm +/- .01mm in diameter; that means that there is less than 1.5/100ths of room inside of a 6.01mm barrel for the bb to have leeway of travel in. If there are any imperfections in the inner barrels finish, or built up dirt, chances are too high that disruption of travel or even worse, a jam can occur in the barrel; the extra volumetric efficiency, and a smidge better grouping, isn't worth the risk of a jam. Thats why most tight bores are 6.03mm, still more efficient than standard bores, with less maintenance requirements or chances of a jam.
I had once had a Miracle Barrel with a nick in the crown and I could never zero a scope to the gun, went through two of my scoped thinkng something was wrong with them, and bouht a third before noticing the barrel issue.
As far as motors, I would recommend an ASG Infinity U-30,000 rpm, short type, I know for a fact that they are neodymium magnet motors; my PR uses a U-35,000 rpm (which I think is a little too much), the ones you brought up didn't say they were. I know that Krytac 30k rpm motors are neodymium as well but I don't think they have a short type. Although I think that almost anything would be an improvement over the stock motor, this motor and any plastic gearbox bushings are the two big weaknesses of this gearbox.
ASG Infinity U-30,0000:
https://www.evike.com/products/52187/Action Armies are also very good, but very expensive:
https://www.evike.com/products/95802/