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 Post subject: Picatinny rail mounted PEQ-15 Laser
PostPosted: Sun Jul 21, 2019 7:01 pm 
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Country: United Kingdom
https://imgur.com/a/t6IFFn3

Already did this with a 3 slot plastic picatinny rail but it only had one screw point and was kind of flimsy.

Got a 5 slot one with 2 holes in it. The holes don't match up the holes on the barrel shroud properly so I had to do some dremeling;

https://i.imgur.com/jLYiSXE.jpg

Tried screwing in from the inside of the shroud to nuts on the rail but all the bolts I had were either too long or too short and didn't want to have to use 10 washers to make the long ones work:
https://i.imgur.com/1WAjUVP.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/az9bYAT.jpg

Managed to eventually get it screwed down with the longer (20mm) bolts the other way around using nuts on the inside of the shroud with a lot of finger dexterity and blutack and time;

https://i.imgur.com/gNOJ9D1.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/EHCTLRp.jpg

PEQ laser mounted:
https://i.imgur.com/NwO6H2H.jpg

I think I'm gonna get another one for the opposite side with an MLOK QD mount on the end like this; https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32913755864.html so I can attach a torch and use my m-lok sling mount.

Edit: Just going to get a longer 9 slot rail, attach that, and use a canted mount for the torch and a QD swivel on it too (torch is too long to fit on the rail+qd mount, would get in the way.

Imagine the tan rail here as 9slot and longer;
https://i.imgur.com/8EToLBT.jpg



https://i.imgur.com/AVVZgjb.jpg Should I drill some holes in the plastic to mount this rail on top for a sight? Not exactly necessary since the 'iron sights' on the gun work fine, just for the tacticool effect.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2019 9:06 pm 
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Country: United Kingdom
https://i.imgur.com/AVVZgjb.jpg should I drill some holes in the plastic to mount this rail on top for a sight?


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2019 6:50 pm 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
https://i.imgur.com/AVVZgjb.jpg should I drill some holes in the plastic to mount this rail on top for a sight?


When I mounted my picatinny rail, I drilled a hole i the center piece or the “carrying handle” that separates when the shroud is disassembled; I am about to drill a second because I am going to put a longer rail on top.

I want the option to put an Eotech replica and a 3x magnifier like the photo spread around of the Alien 5 Pulse Rifle.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2019 6:56 pm 
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Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Service Number: A01/TQ2.0.42137E1
Country: United States
For the carrying handle, you might want to look at the old-style M16/AR15 carrying handle mounts. They should be dirt cheap and I think they would be fairly easy to attach to a PR. You could also easily remove them if you wanted.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2019 3:10 am 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
Erik_MAA wrote:
For the carrying handle, you might want to look at the old-style M16/AR15 carrying handle mounts. They should be dirt cheap and I think they would be fairly easy to attach to a PR. You could also easily remove them if you wanted.


I own a carrying handle scope mount for the M16/AR platforms, trust me when I say that they wouldnt be easy to attach to a PR. The M16’s carrying handle is canted at a downward slope, so the front of the mount is deeper than the rear is, peices of the bottom grove would have to be cut out to allow it to fit. The retaining nut is fairly wide and also on the underside, so it goes on the bottom of the carry handle; it would be difficult to properly affix that mount to the PR.

It literally is not that hard to mount a picatinny rail to a Pulse Rifle by attaching it to the “valley” centerpiece of the groove at the top of the “carry handle” . Remove on side of the shroud, drill a hole(s) in the valley centerpiece (quantity dependend on length), secure the bolt head of the picatinny rail to the underside of the centerpiece for each hole (grind head length to depth but I dont remember having to), reassemble, drop picatinny rail ontop of grove, and tighten the retaining nut(s) atop the rail.

The hardest part is taking the shroud off but unless you are attaching the picatinny rail with glue/epoxy, you are going to have to do that anyways.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2019 5:23 pm 
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Country: United Kingdom
I just came across this thing:
https://www.bespokeairsoft.co.uk/airsof ... ng-handles

Looks like you could mount it around the 'carry handle' on the pulse rifle without having to cut into the plastic?


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2019 2:56 am 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
I just came across this thing:
https://www.bespokeairsoft.co.uk/airsof ... ng-handles

Looks like you could mount it around the 'carry handle' on the pulse rifle without having to cut into the plastic?


That assembly is too thin to fit around the sides of the carry handle.

The only way I can see mounting something that wouldn't be invasive would be to custom build a bracket that holds the picatinny rail and mounts to the gun by the four bolts holding the shroud together in the dimples of the shroud around the carry handle. The brace would likely be bulky and probably heavy, and not look too good without a ton of craftsmanship and inspiration.

Thats why I said screw it, and drilled a hole in the center peice.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2019 6:25 pm 
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Country: United Kingdom
Yeah I might end up doing that since I'm planning to use it playing airsoft for a while, any idea what other basic upgrades I can do to it? I read in another thread something about a different spring, barrel, hopup nub, and mosfet, but apparently the mosfet needs the gearbox opening up and I don't wanna do that I'll probably break it.


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 02, 2019 1:28 am 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
Yeah I might end up doing that since I'm planning to use it playing airsoft for a while, any idea what other basic upgrades I can do to it? I read in another thread something about a different spring, barrel, hopup nub, and mosfet, but apparently the mosfet needs the gearbox opening up and I don't wanna do that I'll probably break it.


That would be what I mentioned. A 300mm stainless steel 6.03mm tightbore a good bucking and nub with a flat hop conversion.

I have recommended bringing the fps towards field limits to take advantage of heavier bbs; that can involve a spring but make sure all of the parts have the best seal that they can as well.

There is no reason as to why you would need to open the gearbox to put a mosfet in on this gun, version 6 gearboxes have external wiring and trigger assemblies.

By the way I sent a gearbox assembly to a guy that is
Prototyping a Thompson microswitch trigger kit, with any luck, we will have microswitch triggers available for our pulse rifles soon so we can have awesome trigger response!


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 02, 2019 1:36 am 
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Country: United Kingdom
Whamhammer wrote:
paradoxum wrote:
Yeah I might end up doing that since I'm planning to use it playing airsoft for a while, any idea what other basic upgrades I can do to it? I read in another thread something about a different spring, barrel, hopup nub, and mosfet, but apparently the mosfet needs the gearbox opening up and I don't wanna do that I'll probably break it.


That would be what I mentioned. A 300mm stainless steel 6.03mm tightbore a good bucking and nub with a flat hop conversion.

I have recommended bringing the fps towards field limits to take advantage of heavier bbs; that can involve a spring but make sure all of the parts have the best seal that they can as well.

There is no reason as to why you would need to open the gearbox to put a mosfet in on this gun, version 6 gearboxes have external wiring and trigger assemblies.

By the way I sent a gearbox assembly to a guy that is
Prototyping a Thompson microswitch trigger kit, with any luck, we will have microswitch triggers available for our pulse rifles soon so we can have awesome trigger response!


Can you recommend / link to specific products for me please? You seem to know what you're doing with this.

Can't remeber where but someone suggested this barrel https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B010M2D0LG/ (what length?) (anything better?)

Also I was reading threads and someone mentioned having to open the gearbox for a mosfet which is why I mentioned that.

"microswitch triggers" = mosfet? or another thing?

Thanks man you're super helpful re; this gun with airsoft. I might just end up buying all the upgrades and ship it off to a retailer guy I'm in contact with (who actually sold me the gun and said he'd upgraded some before) and pay to have him do it because the thing cost me like £300.


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 02, 2019 1:58 am 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
Whamhammer wrote:
paradoxum wrote:
Yeah I might end up doing that since I'm planning to use it playing airsoft for a while, any idea what other basic upgrades I can do to it? I read in another thread something about a different spring, barrel, hopup nub, and mosfet, but apparently the mosfet needs the gearbox opening up and I don't wanna do that I'll probably break it.


That would be what I mentioned. A 300mm stainless steel 6.03mm tightbore a good bucking and nub with a flat hop conversion.

I have recommended bringing the fps towards field limits to take advantage of heavier bbs; that can involve a spring but make sure all of the parts have the best seal that they can as well.

There is no reason as to why you would need to open the gearbox to put a mosfet in on this gun, version 6 gearboxes have external wiring and trigger assemblies.

By the way I sent a gearbox assembly to a guy that is
Prototyping a Thompson microswitch trigger kit, with any luck, we will have microswitch triggers available for our pulse rifles soon so we can have awesome trigger response!


Can you recommend / link to specific products for me please? You seem to know what you're doing with this.

Can't remeber where but someone suggested this barrel https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B010M2D0LG/ (what length?) (anything better?)

Also I was reading threads and someone mentioned having to open the gearbox for a mosfet which is why I mentioned that.

"microswitch triggers" = mosfet? or another thing?

Thanks man you're super helpful re; this gun with airsoft. I might just end up buying all the upgrades and ship it off to a retailer guy I'm in contact with (who actually sold me the gun and said he'd upgraded some before) and pay to have him do it because the thing cost me like £300.


The barrel you linked is what I recommenced in a 300mm.

Microswitch triggers are different than a mosfet. The switch used in our pulse rifles to tell if a magazine is in the gun or if its removed so it can change the count to 00 or 95 is actually a microswitch but used for a different purpose. Microswitch triggers are a little bit more sensitive and need less of a lengthy trigger pull to make the gun fire. Most of the mid to high grade AEGs use microswitches now with thier triggers. Mosfets are a protector for the electronics from power spikes and allow people to safely ise 11.1v LiPos and LiIons.

Most version 6 parts are the same as version 2s and 3s with the exception on the middle gear (I forget the name for it), cylinder head, nozzle, tappet plate, spring guide, and anti reversal latch; but you probably wont need to replace any of those, make sure the cylinder head seals well and the oring is good. I would recommend a version 6 spring guide that has bearings so the spring wont bind as much, polishing the beieezus out of the cylinder(inside and out, Ive used Brasso for this), and whatever spring would but you at field limits. A local airsoft store should sell most decent brands like Modify, SHS, and such.

While you are working with the gearbox, go with a 30,000 RPM motor (short type) that had neomodium magnets (ASG, Action Army are a few good brands). That will help with trigger response , ROF, and will feel and sound a ton better than the original turd of a motor.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 4:58 am 
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Country: United Kingdom
I'm planning to ship the gun to a local guy who does upgrades and such and have him basically do everything for me, what kinda things should I request?


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 3:39 pm 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
I'm planning to ship the gun to a local guy who does upgrades and such and have him basically do everything for me, what kinda things should I request?


Like I have suggested before:

- 300mm stainless steel 6.03mm tight-bore inner barrel, recommend Madbull Steelbull but other quality barrels will do.

- High quality hopup bucking and nub, converted to flat hop, recommend Maple Leaf 60’ or 70’ or similar quality.

- Bring gun as close to field limit fps as possible, make sure gearbox components have best seal possible, if shim job is bad, reshim

- Replace the stock motor with a quality (short type) neo-magnet motor of about the 25k - 30k rpm
range

- Install a decent mosfet

- move the placement of the fuse to somewhere easily accessible, without opening the gun up

- maybe come up with more direct connection that the small Tamiyas that connect the gearbox wiringand the harness to the battery, definitely comvert battery connection to deans


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 4:20 pm 
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Country: United Kingdom
Whamhammer wrote:
paradoxum wrote:
I'm planning to ship the gun to a local guy who does upgrades and such and have him basically do everything for me, what kinda things should I request?


Like I have suggested before:

- 300mm stainless steel 6.03mm tight-bore inner barrel, recommend Madbull Steelbull but other quality barrels will do.

- High quality hopup bucking and nub, converted to flat hop, recommend Maple Leaf 60’ or 70’ or similar quality.

- Bring gun as close to field limit fps as possible, make sure gearbox components have best seal possible, if shim job is bad, reshim

- Replace the stock motor with a quality (short type) neo-magnet motor of about the 25k - 30k rpm
range

- Install a decent mosfet

- move the placement of the fuse to somewhere easily accessible, without opening the gun up

- maybe come up with more direct connection that the small Tamiyas that connect the gearbox wiringand the harness to the battery, definitely comvert battery connection to deans


Thank you for the list and sorry I missed it, I'm ADHD and my head is usually allover the placel ike that, but I've saved your comment in a file to send to him later on.

what would you call a decent mosfet, that would also be able to fit inside the limited space?

I'm gonna first swap the 9v over to this tiny lipo I bought and wedge it up in the angled bit near the magwell like that one guy did in his thread and just add a longer cable to charge it because I wouldn't be able to get it out without taking the gun apart.

Although how about requesting if this guy can get the ammo-counter to run off the main NiMH, if that's possible? And I'll probably move the switch somewhere so I don't need to take the magwell cap off to do it.

By the way how did you cut the hole in the bottom of the cap, what tool did you use? I make it nice and clean and smooth - also know where I can get a replacement one in the UK / EU? Evike has them for 12 bucks but shipping here is gonna be like triple that.


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 10:49 pm 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
Whamhammer wrote:
paradoxum wrote:
I'm planning to ship the gun to a local guy who does upgrades and such and have him basically do everything for me, what kinda things should I request?


Like I have suggested before:

- 300mm stainless steel 6.03mm tight-bore inner barrel, recommend Madbull Steelbull but other quality barrels will do.

- High quality hopup bucking and nub, converted to flat hop, recommend Maple Leaf 60’ or 70’ or similar quality.

- Bring gun as close to field limit fps as possible, make sure gearbox components have best seal possible, if shim job is bad, reshim

- Replace the stock motor with a quality (short type) neo-magnet motor of about the 25k - 30k rpm
range

- Install a decent mosfet

- move the placement of the fuse to somewhere easily accessible, without opening the gun up

- maybe come up with more direct connection that the small Tamiyas that connect the gearbox wiringand the harness to the battery, definitely comvert battery connection to deans


Thank you for the list and sorry I missed it, I'm ADHD and my head is usually allover the placel ike that, but I've saved your comment in a file to send to him later on.

what would you call a decent mosfet, that would also be able to fit inside the limited space?

I'm gonna first swap the 9v over to this tiny lipo I bought and wedge it up in the angled bit near the magwell like that one guy did in his thread and just add a longer cable to charge it because I wouldn't be able to get it out without taking the gun apart.

Although how about requesting if this guy can get the ammo-counter to run off the main NiMH, if that's possible? And I'll probably move the switch somewhere so I don't need to take the magwell cap off to do it.

By the way how did you cut the hole in the bottom of the cap, what tool did you use? I make it nice and clean and smooth - also know where I can get a replacement one in the UK / EU? Evike has them for 12 bucks but shipping here is gonna be like triple that.


Personally, I don’t see the point of removing the 9v from the ammo counter in the first place, its simple, it works, and its really not that much in the way. My Pulse Rifle was my main skirmishing gun for two years and I never had an issue with the 9v or its wiring. In my opinion, you open up more troubles than getting solutions.



As far as mosfets, there is room to fit them about any where, I’ve heard good things about the NukeFet, most of the Gates are good. I personally run Gate Warfets in all of my Thompson platforms (including the PRs) but they are on the more expensive side, but I wanted to be able to use some of the options that the Warfet offered because I tend to overdo things (like set up a 26 rounds per second rate of fire from stock gears), I had to use my mosfet to push down my rate of fire while keeping a higher C battery and a 35K motor because I would feed on full auto with .32s and midcaps.

For 95% of players a simple mosfet like a NukeFet will do just fine. I sould definetly impress to have the fuse easily accessible for replacement and aboe to be pulled out of the GL front if you keep it there, the mosfet and fuse have plenty of room in the GL area.

All I did to cut a hole for the caps was make lines in the cap, and a Dremel.

As far as extra caps go, if you can find a Snow Wolf retailer, they should have access to the replacement parts, I know that the high cap mags, the mag cover/caps, and the grenade launcher pump action grip are all available.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2019 1:55 am 
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Country: United Kingdom
Do you know if these extended mags will fit?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B012386CN0/


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2019 2:19 am 

Location: U.S.A.
Country: United States
paradoxum wrote:
Do you know if these extended mags will fit?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B012386CN0/


If you cut a magazine shaped hole at the PRs magazine base, or dont put on the magazine base,yes.


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2019 2:40 am 
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Country: United Kingdom
Whamhammer wrote:
paradoxum wrote:
Do you know if these extended mags will fit?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B012386CN0/


If you cut a magazine shaped hole at the PRs magazine base, or dont put on the magazine base,yes.


Thanks.


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