Hello All,

A change in career, the prospect of weekends off and more disposable income means I'm now going to be putting together a Colonial Marines Rifleman representation... I'm looking forward to it!

I want a decent Pulse Rifle and the Snow Wolf seems to get good reviews... Is this the best thing 'out of the box'?

I don't like the fact the magazine base is not actually attached to the magazine itself... It seems crap that you have to remove it before removing the mag...

Is there a way to attach the two? I presume it would not interfere with the battery for the ammo counter...

The other thing is that I'm not an air soft user... So would the HCG Pulse be better?

I have a firearms certificate... For WW2 reenactment... So would that suffice for VCRA and getting a pulse with a green shroud?

Any help and advice gratefully received...

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A02/TQ2.0.52141E1

"Errr... Roger that's a 2-1-6..."

Hello there!

Welcome to the world of buying a Pulse Rifle and the decisions to be made!!

There are several choices out there for a PR replica. One of the first questions you need to answer is "what do I want to do with it"? Do I want to just hang it on a wall and look at it? Do I want to play airsoft with it? Do I want something that makes noises?

Then you need to ask yourself "how much do I want to spend"? You can go as little as a few hundred for a solid resin prop that does nothing and then go all the way up to several thousand for a real steel screen accurate replica.

Then, do I want a finished replica or build one myself. How much effort do I want to put into it?

The quickest and easiest PR yes, would be the Snow Wolf. It's a decent replica with a somewhat functional counter (as long as your firing BB's). It does light up, but doesn't count unless your shooting BB's. The rear of the shroud is squared instead of rounded like the real prop. And the separate mag base like you mentioned. However, member Noble on here sells a mag base insert that attaches the two. He may be out of them right now, but you may still be able to get one.

For the lowest cost you could build and paint a Spulse rifle made by Spat. It will be solid resin and really looks the part. I would stay away from any other resin PR you may find on EBay for a cheaper price. They are likely poor recasts.
http://www.spatcave.com/spulse.htm

The HCG is a good wall hanger and benefits from having aluminum shrouds and a static light up counter. However they had a lot of quality control issues and many, many were returned for drooping grenade launchers.
http://www.amazon.com/Hollywood-Collect ... roduct_top

You could also then source all your parts for a build yourself version. Tracking down all the parts from various people may take a while and putting them altogether will test your buidology. But it would be something you did yourself.
http://www.therpf.com/f9/real-steel-pul ... ress-9472/

So, lots of options out there. What do you want to do?

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If you can prove you are part of a reenactment group then yes. Otherwise an FAC is not enough on it's own

I want a decent Pulse Rifle and the Snow Wolf seems to get good reviews... Is this the best thing 'out of the box'?

Yes, it's a damed good little rifle. I wouldn't go as far as 'best' out of the box, because it's pretty much a product on it's own in terms of 'out of the box'.
The rifle is certainly useable out of the box. Could do with a spring upgrade, depending on whether yours comes downgraded or not. The battery and charger in the box are junk and need to be replaced. But with a few tweaks, it's brilliant.

I don't like the fact the magazine base is not actually attached to the magazine itself... It seems crap that you have to remove it before removing the mag...
Is there a way to attach the two? I presume it would not interfere with the battery for the ammo counter...

Yes, it is a bit of a flaw in the design, and there are ways to alter that. Noble does a mag base conversion I think which you should be able to find in the PX. There is also the option of going to Mid-Caps and removing the need for winding.
And no, it won't interfere with the counter battery. This is held inside the mag-well.

The other thing is that I'm not an air soft user... So would the HCG Pulse be better?

I've never had my paws on the HCG, but from what I understand the HCG is resin, and expensive for what it is. The Snow Wolf is nothing short of a bargain.

I have a firearms certificate... For WW2 reenactment... So would that suffice for VCRA and getting a pulse with a green shroud?

Having a firearms certificate means nothing when it comes to purchasing RIF's. But your status as a Re-enactor, should hold you in good stead and provide you a defence under the regulation. You'd need to provide your supplier with proof of your membership within a re-enactment group. But if you can do this, I shouldn't envisage any problems.

Any help and advice gratefully received...

Pleasure.

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You don't have to be pitilessly sadistic to work here.... But it helps.
http://www.chefs-creations.co.uk/shop/index.php/colonial-marine

http://www.kgbairsoft.com/wordpress

Interestingly, I've just thought.....

If you didn't want to use the rifle for airsofting, then you could glue a rod to the loading nozzle, extending up the barrel, and have it just the right length to activate the counter sensor (right at the end of the barrel) and thus have a working counter when you pull the trigger.

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You don't have to be pitilessly sadistic to work here.... But it helps.
http://www.chefs-creations.co.uk/shop/index.php/colonial-marine

http://www.kgbairsoft.com/wordpress

Chef, nice concept, but it wont work. The trigger actually has nothing to do with how the counter works. The counter works by a BB breaking a beam between an IR Emitter and an IR Receiver LED located in the end of the barrel. The trigger just releases the BB down the barrel.

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He means to use the rod to break the light beam I think...

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Si vis pacem, para bellum
SFC Steve "Fireball" Parsons - A08/TQ1.0.52150E1
69th Regt. 1st Batt. Homers Heroes

The counter wont work until the receiver LED re-acquires the signal from the emitter LED. Blocking the beam with a rod will cause the counter to drop one and then no more. Moving the trigger, without shooting a BB, has no effect on the IR LEDs.

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What Chef means is attaching a rod to the air-nozzle at the face of the gearbox. When the gearbox cycles the tappet-plate pulls the nozzle back in order to load a round into the chamber. So if a rod were attached to this it too would move backwards/forwards

That's what he meant

Ahhhh, I see what you mean now. Yeah that probably would work. I'd be afraid of launching said rod though.....

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Rewiring the trigger so it counts down independent of actually firing is not a big mod, if you don't want to use it as an airsoft. I know I did mine that way, and I think Robi did his similar. Mainly a matter of soldering the trigger wires into the counter circuit.

Charlie

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"There is a clause in the contract which specifically states any systematized transmission indicating a possible intelligent origin must be investigated. On penalty of total forfeiture of shares. No money."

Yeah, that would work.
Hell, you could even give it a working ejector port using a similar tweak!

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MSgt, UKCM 42nd Reg., 1st Batt. : Hadrian's Wall. UKCM

Wasteland Workshop
Props, cosplay pieces, upcycled ornamentation, and miscellanea;
For the discerning survivor of the apocalypse.
Steve Fletcher : Maker, Scavenger, and Junksmith.
linktr.ee/wastelandworkshop

Proph - Me... same wavelength you see!

There's be no issue with launching the rod, because if the bond broke, then all it would do is probably just slide back inside the air nozzle.

Admittedly, the extra weight attached to the air nozzle is more likely to break the tappet plate, but hey, you can't have a good idea without some potential flaws.

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You don't have to be pitilessly sadistic to work here.... But it helps.
http://www.chefs-creations.co.uk/shop/index.php/colonial-marine

http://www.kgbairsoft.com/wordpress

Dear All,

Thank you for your advice...

I'm thinking that for the price, I'll go Snow Wolf and take things from there...

I suppose I could just get a Snow Wolf with a blue shroud and redo it Brown Bess? Either way, I can obtain one of these PRs...

I'm looking forward to getting the repro uniforms and badging them up... And adding detail, detail detail...

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A02/TQ2.0.52141E1

"Errr... Roger that's a 2-1-6..."

I went that route, just because it's cheaper.

But being a re-enactor. you should be OK to purchase a green one.




Section E in Bold....

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You don't have to be pitilessly sadistic to work here.... But it helps.
http://www.chefs-creations.co.uk/shop/index.php/colonial-marine

http://www.kgbairsoft.com/wordpress

I would NOT attach a rod to the air nozzle. Yes the chances of launching it are slim but there a much better ways of doing it and do you really want to take the risk of harpooning someone , read the thread on here about the sound board install

Some parts are resin, some are plastic and some are metal, including the shrouds.
It's a heavy SOB.

Sounds like the Snow Wolf or other airsoft PRs are more what you're after.

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Steve
Corporal in 69th Regt. 1st Batt. Homer’s Heroes.

"I'd like to die at the age of 80 in my own bed, with a belly full of wine and a girl's mouth around my c**k."

For a long time the only PR's out there were real steel, the G&P kit, full resin, SDS PR, and Matsu's PR parts. The G&P kit I think was looked down upon because, out of the lot, it was not as accurate as any of the others. Plus, the G&P PR was not cheap. At the time there was only the Marui Thompson to use as a base, and it was $300-$400 on it's own, plus another $400 for the G&P kit, if you could find it in stock!

But then comes the Snow Wolf PR. At a price that's about 1/4 that of a full G&P. There was suddenly a flood of Snow Wolf's being bought up. While still not as accurate as the others, you just can't beat the price, and that has made it extremely popular and more importantly, more acceptable by the masses.

You can't go wrong with a Snow Wolf. Just buy a better battery and a charger if you order one.

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I agree that the battery and charger that comes with the Snow Wolf is the (pretty standard) total crap and useless. However, if I read the original post right, he's not looking to actually use it for airsofting at all. If that is the case, I wouldn't waste the money upgrading the battery and whatnot if it will never be used. If you DO plan on airsofting with it, definitely worth the money to upgrade.

Charlie

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"There is a clause in the contract which specifically states any systematized transmission indicating a possible intelligent origin must be investigated. On penalty of total forfeiture of shares. No money."

Absolutely right Sgt Kitten! I forgot that point, I just got caught up in the moment! LoL!

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Guys - as an update on this, I now have a G&P kit built around a TM Thompson as a stop gap... It's my first PR and I'm over the moon with it... Just thinking about sling attachment improvements and replacing the shotgun shell in the plastic SPAS cage with an aluminium M40 grenade in the short term.

I'm wanting an Airsoft full metal hero... Eventually... So the TM THOMPSON will do as the basis for that... I have a load of SD STUDIOS parts on order and will also go for Matsuo (HCG) type shrouds...

I've got a Maruzen M870 to put on my SPAS cage as well...

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A02/TQ2.0.52141E1

"Errr... Roger that's a 2-1-6..."

Been trawling the forum for a good while now but haven’t found an answer my self so going ask , are their replacement base plates available anywhere ? I have a snow wolf and a couple of extra mags for it so ideally I’d like a base plate for each one and hopefully be able to wind the mag as well . Please can anyone help a new recruit out ?

I think Noble (that’s his username on here) made some that have a hole in the bottom for high cap wheels, I may be wrong!

I’ve never seen any official spare bases over here in the U.K. though

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AKA: Simon

Evike.com sells the base plates.

What I did was just a magazine shaped hole through the bottom of one of my base plates, so I can slip that mag through it.

Noble made an adapter for the mag bases so they could be slipped on and off. There wasn’t a hole to wind the high cap Mags.

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A02/TQ2.0.52141E1

"Errr... Roger that's a 2-1-6..."