Hey everyone,
I'm close to put a m870 in to the spas cage but I'm trying to find infos about how to connect the pump handle to the m870 cocking rail.
Any one got informations about those pieces? I have an idea about it but because I dont have the m870 yet (should be there on saturday) I would like to ba able to buy the proper alluminium elements to work it before saturday.
I think it is mainly one alluminium bit on the handle with two holes and
one alluminium to make the sliding effect smoother and to connect the handle to the m870 rail. Any blue prints of this two parts?
Do I miss something else?

Thanks

Stephane

I think it's a custom made part. I think Steve (Data) put some schematics up a while ago..

_________________
STEVENSON F.
A11/TQ0.0.82148E1

"You are not your Drop Count."

How about these two links:

http://props.steinschneider.com/pulser/ ... tom_05.htm

http://props.steinschneider.com/pulser/pulpic06.htm

Thank you.
I even found the plans in the airsoft section.


Stephane

I saw my name.

Yes I do make up a custom part to connect the ranking bars of the M870 to the S.P.A.S grip.

Lots of people have asked me "are you making kits of your PR" and yes I am.

ATM I am busy with the Courts with a speeding problem.

Atm my lawyer is costing me £150 per hour and the CPS is pissing me around. So I trying to keep my license, get no points and large fine.

The CPS are trying to do me for 130MPH but that a load of Crap. But that life.

I hope this Drawing hopes as I put the items together as they are in the PR.

There a 2mm think 10 x 25mm plate that sits under the surface of the S.P.A.S grip.

The spacer hads four holes. Twp holes are taped M4 for the 2 M4 domed headed screws to screw the S.P.A.S grip on. Two M3 taped holes to hold the spacer to the ranking ring. This will sit flush with the S.P.A.S cage and will sit flush with the S.P.A.S grip on the back face.

This spacer will keep the Grip and ranking arms straight and square and will make the pump action very smooth and easy.

The ranking ring need two holes drilled into it. The hard bit is to counter sink the holes for the two M3 screws. The counter sink must be deep enough for the M3 screw so that the heads off the screw do not hit the shell tube.

I hope this helps.

Cheer's Steve

Good, cos I'll be after one of those kits, or someone with more skill than me to do it for me.

No rush though. Hore you get your court problem sorted.

_________________
Steve
Corporal in 69th Regt. 1st Batt. Homer’s Heroes.

"I'd like to die at the age of 80 in my own bed, with a belly full of wine and a girl's mouth around my c**k."

Shi.., I've just bought alluminium to do it.
I'll give a try and if it's a catastrophe, I'll cry to you via PM Steve.
If you dont mind off-course.

thanks again Steve for sharing your blueprints.


Stephane

No problems at all.

Happy to help.

Best machining Alloy is 6011 T6 but not good at welding.

6082 T6 is good machining and welding.

I use 6082 T6 as the machining is easier to do and if a make a mistake I can weld it up. LOLOL

It easy for me to machine stuff up as I got a machine shop with CNC lathes, CNC mill, Manual lathes and mills with other great stuff to.

Darren favorite tool is a hacksaw!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Cheer's Steve

OK pals,
It looks like it was not a good idea to buy the expensive Tanaka m870.
The way it's been conceived is really different than the Maruzen.
The body is as large as the Maruzen and needs to be milled on the sides to fit the Spas cage.
But my actual main problem is to find a way to dismantle the sliding mechanism to be able to prepare the body without damaging the inside moving parts and to find out if there is a way to connect the Spas sliding handle to the Tanaka slding mechanism.

here is a photo of the Tanaka sliding part

I've looked around it and I have no idea how to separate it from the main body.
Any Ideas?
This means that even the Steve's parts are not fiting the Tanaka.
Am I wrong?

Stephane