Without wanting to sound like an arse could we please keep this thread for information pertaining to the dropship helmets only and keep random questions out of it. There are plenty of other threads for that.

Thanks

Darren

Agreed. Question, Could we pull the Smart gun sight content?

Seems it would be more useful on its own.

First sight parts out of the molds



I'd never even done a check pour when I pulled the parts outta' the molds, cleaned 'em up, and sent 'em back to Stephen. Only issue in them is that the threads aren't complete on the inside of the push-button rod. That's the part that's in the middle bottom. It's in two parts 'cause I didn't burp the mold Thought the pressure casting would self-burp it, but the neck is just too tight for that Anyhoo, the bubble in the mold at the base of that part *might* be a moot issue if I can find some small enough nuts or thread inserts to mold into the parts, coupled with small bolts molded into the opposite parts. Haven't made the run to the hardware store to try to match thread size & pitch yet.

I also haven't figured out what rubber I'm using in the hood mold yet. Whatever I use has to be (or be able to be dyed) tire black. Once I get that taken care of, we'll just need Steve's bases

Jesse

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Pvt J. DeGraff, C.M.D.
A14/TQ3.0.65090E2

I use Smooth-On "Brush On 50" with the Smooth On black pigment added. Just a little make the rubber real black.
http://www.smooth-on.com/Urethane-Rubbe ... index.html
you can get a trial size for like $25. That should make a lot of them.

I use it for the wrist com bands on the AES suit. It will not stick to the Silicon RTV molds (release just in case) and the NOSTROMO crew orange watch backings.


It is pretty rigid. I bet the Shore 60 would actually be better.

Just an idea.

Thanks Steve, I'll give it a look.

I love Smooth-On

BTW, poured a second set yesterday and pulled them this morning. A proper burping works like a charm. Now I just need to find some inserts and order me some Smooth-On

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Pvt J. DeGraff, C.M.D.
A14/TQ3.0.65090E2

Good news. The fine threaded parts on the sight, VERY likely to be damaged , appear to be standard 4mm & 5mm threads. I'm off to Grainger tomorrow to pick up bolts, jam nuts, and helical thread inserts to mold into the important bits.

Steve, Noble, Stefan....someone with an orig Rapier sight. Can you measure (pref with a caliper) the head diameter and height of the little fillister or cheese head screws that hold in the polycarb or the side plate on the rail mount body? Also the washers These little guys:



I'm guessing they're an M2 sized screw, though the cheese heads in Grainger have a shorter apparent head height than what's shown, while the fillister heads seem more in line (though they're only in SAE sizes). Thanks!

Jesse

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Pvt J. DeGraff, C.M.D.
A14/TQ3.0.65090E2

Sight Unit:
The screw heads are 3.5mm in diameter. The height is 2.0mm at the center and 1.6mm at the rim. Thread diameter looks like 2mm (the threads are really crudely done and differ from 2.0 to 2.15mm on the same screw!).

The washer is 0.6mm thick and has a diameter of 4.7mm.

Mount:
Screw head diameter is 4.5mm. Height is 2.2 at the center and 1.8 at the rim. Thread diameter 2.75mm.

No washers here.

Cheers,
Stefan

Thank Stefan! That'll get me in the ballpark.
Jesse

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Pvt J. DeGraff, C.M.D.
A14/TQ3.0.65090E2

2.75mm is really odd for a metric screw (standards are 2.5mm and 3mm). So it's well possible the screws are size 2 (2.1844mm) and size 4 (2.8448mm) instead.
I'd suggest to match only the head and see what thread diameter is available...

Cheers,
Stefan

Edit: Just checked a head diameter table and sizes 2 and 4 seem correct.

Metric's a little harder to come by in the states Went to Grainger and none of my list was in stock, but it'll come on the truck from L.A. and be there in the morning. I went with 2-56 x 3/16" fillister head machine screws and washers for the panel and sight screws. Not quite to "Herr Millimeter" standards (that STILL makes me laugh ), but they're pretty close and should be good for most folks. Thx again, Stefan!

Jesse

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Pvt J. DeGraff, C.M.D.
A14/TQ3.0.65090E2

At my job the millimeter is usually the biggest length unit we use - the most common one is the nanometer (which is 1/1,000,000 millimeter).
So we are talking about large things here.

Cheers,
Stefan

LOL!!!

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Pvt J. DeGraff, C.M.D.
A14/TQ3.0.65090E2

Tiny update. I mis-ordered one of the parts, and the correct one has to come from Chicago, so that won't arrive 'til next Tuesday or Wednesday

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Pvt J. DeGraff, C.M.D.
A14/TQ3.0.65090E2

Small update....got the rubber order in from Smooth-On yesterday, and I can pick up the inserts today (if I have time), but some family is out to visit from New York for a week and a half, so no more progress until after the 23rd
Jesse

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Pvt J. DeGraff, C.M.D.
A14/TQ3.0.65090E2

Optics platform under rubber.....

This makes me happy. I'm really excited to see the finished co-pilot helmet!

Harry

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http://www.facebook.com/TheHHACA - @TheHHACA

Oooo, shiny! I've got four of the hoods done Can only do one per 24hrs though, since the rubber takes 16hrs to cure
Jesse

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Pvt J. DeGraff, C.M.D.
A14/TQ3.0.65090E2

Is it possible to make a dropship helmet from plastic? Yknow, being a cheaper material overall rather than buying the helmet type then modifying. Is there such kits or instrcutions though?

Chris

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Easily distracted by shiny things...

I don't think this would be much cheaper than an original SPH-4 (unless you want one in prestine condition).

Cheers,
Stefan

could probably VAC form the 2 sides, maybe the visor cover.

you would still need a liner and a visor and the greeblie parts kit. If people were interested I could look into it.

Are we looking to save weight or money?

the 2 halves would be pretty easy, would just need to fill in the center seam.
if it's the same model you could drill out the holes and use original parts ( I assume )

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Rob Slater
A08/TQ2.0.42136E1

Seems like an awful lot of work for little gain. And structurally you'd be worse off when you bolted all the hardware in. And add up the cost of the hardware (if you can find it) and it'd probably approach the cost of a full helmet if you get a reasonable price instead of the $250 - 400+ that some folks try to get with BiN. I have to wear an XL, which is pricier, but I still only paid about $150. Granted that was a "few" years ago now, but a quick peruse of eBay shows a few nice deals going currently.

Jesse

edit: There's even an XL currently at $10 with no bids...it's just white and missing a few bits of hardware

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Pvt J. DeGraff, C.M.D.
A14/TQ3.0.65090E2

I got two sets of dropship helmet parts (including a co-pilot base) from Steve today. I'm so happy I could squee!

SQUEEEEE!!!!!!!

Ahem....uh, was that my outside voice?

Now we just need the left side sight for co-pilot....I think. It's been a few months since I read through this-here thread completely

Jesse

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Pvt J. DeGraff, C.M.D.
A14/TQ3.0.65090E2

I have the other side partially built.

Would be happy to send it to you or steve to mold.


I can put some more work into it in two weeks, but you guys may need to finish it off.

Well, I'm set up for pressure casting and Steve isn't <shrug>. I'd love to run the parts! I can understand some trepidation based on the delays I've had in the past, but things are groovin' right now and I should be able to run molds and parts immediately. I could even run up to LA-LA Land from San Diego to pick up the originals

Jesse

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Pvt J. DeGraff, C.M.D.
A14/TQ3.0.65090E2

Sounds good guys.