Nice Retro!

Accucare's can be cheap as well, when a surplus shop has them on ebay.

Here's a completed widget with the hole modifications.





Center hole has countersink drilled out.

Right hole has been shifted +enlarged.

Based on the layout of the mechanical internals, I believe the SU widgets had the holes modified.


I'm posting a limited bracket run on the PX, it is a one time deal.

Primer painting these is a pain!

Great attention to detail, Noble!

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A02/TQ2.0.52141E1

"Errr... Roger that's a 2-1-6..."

The Plastruct parts have arrived;

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=16035&p=243329#p243329

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Pvt. Robert E. Davies

69th Regt. 1st Batt. Homer’s Heroes

A08/TQ1.0.02129E1

Could we discuss the best practice for mounting the Plastruct pieces to the tubing, slide viewer and drill?

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My entry-level prop and costume tutorials: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12751

I'm thinking of drilling out the plastruct, and using some brass pipe to hold the tubing in place.

I think the widget discovery is still one of the best discoveries on this prop. Hats off.

Make sure you take EVERYTHING apart, I discovered I had the correct nipple two months after buying mine. It was in the spiral tubing that comes off the wall bracket.

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My entry-level prop and costume tutorials: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12751

It is threaded like my picture above?

The Accucare isn't completely threaded.


I've purchased a medline that wasn't the same internally, I guess you got lucky.


Make sure the Medline as the two screws on the front next to the indicator axis.

I'll take a photo when I get home. It'll need a little modding still but the tip is a match and the length is a match.

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My entry-level prop and costume tutorials: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12751

Here's the nipple that came with my pump widget.



Here's a snip of the cord that came with it as well:



I think it'll need some wire or something on the inside but I do agree with Noble that this is what the front loop should be made of.

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My entry-level prop and costume tutorials: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12751

Whatever you do, do NOT try to paint that plastic tubing with spray paint! It will stay sticky FOREVER.

Plain acrylic paint will flake off as well.

I'd suggest mixing some acrylic paint with liquid latex like the people do who paint xenomorph or Predator costumes. Forgive me if this already a no-brainer, I just had flashbacks to the RACAL headset I have and how the previous owner painted the cable with spray paint...it's still sticky as hell all these years later.

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"Awww, someone tell me that's a boot!

It's a boot!"

III drops

No need to paint it luckily, it's already the right color!

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My entry-level prop and costume tutorials: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12751

Whats the outer diameter of the wire.

Sorry that photo above was showing multiple things. Did you mean the shiny tubing from Noble or the matte tubing from the sphygmomanometer?

When mounting the mercury vapor lamp on the Kango body note that there seems to be a silver washer between the two.

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My entry-level prop and costume tutorials: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12751

I was after the OD of Nobles Wire. Hama viewer to Kango.

I believe it is 1/4" outer diameter.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#5231k81/=12aqno1

I just measured it and came up with 1/4" too. Not sure what that is in metric units though.

So I started putting the bits together and thought I'd share what I did.

For the Hama slide viewer I put a long thin nail through a washer and glued that on the inside pointing out. I then used SteelStik to putty up the outside and painted it black.



On the Kango side I couldn't get access the inside so instead I glued a large rivet into the hole I'd made for my earlier tubing, and then glued the drilled out model lamp to that. The silver of the rivet rim mimics the washer visible on the original which is nice.



So here's the final version with the model lamps and correct tubing in place. Please ignore the resin pump widget and the front knob being turned the wrong way, these will get fixed soon.



Threading a thin piece of wire through the coil from the sphygmomanometer allowed me to get the right curve for the front (compare this to my earlier pic to see why it needed the wire!).



Much better!

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My entry-level prop and costume tutorials: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12751

Thanks heaps guys. Ill get something that sizes up to that here in OZ

Bump.

Need to re-link photos

What is the height and width on the knob. I am researching some amphenol connector types for cabling.

I am trying to see if I can have an alternate avenue for cabling on my pi motion tracker setup...

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The impossible takes a while longer and goes over budget too...

The Plastruct page has a list of the measurements.

https://plastruct.com/products/lf-316

And dimensions are:
Color: GREEN
Scale: G
Height in Inches: 21/64"
Height in MM: 8.3mm
Width in Inches: 15/32"
Width in MM: 11.9mm
Material: ABS
Thickness in Inches: 3/32"
Thickness in MM: 2.4mm

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The impossible takes a while longer and goes over budget too...