Hi everyone. As some of you know I have built a simple electronics kit with a working screen for my Motion Tracker. The good thing is you can build your own electronics kit too, and it won't cost you a great deal of cash. You will probably have some of the parts kicking around.
First the set up will not track any moving aliens. And will only play a video or videos that I have stored on it. So it's probably just like the original Motion Tracker prop but now fully enclosed in the unit. The video that I use was recorded from an iPhone app using a Apple Mac. The creator of the app stated that I could use my video of his captured app.

I have managed to fit this set up into a real parts prop using a real Hama display and the Kango drill (loads of room) And a nick-a-tron resin motion tracker kit. Nicks kit dose require some parts to have resin removed using a Dremel, and I cut the bottom Kango section off, but it will all fit in.

The only down side that I have found is that there is a bit of noise from the speaker. White noise.
I built one fully built version for Anthony Velda who was very very happy with the kit. Because at the time I had no real Hama viewer to test with.

Note: I take no responsibility for the money you spend or if you think the end result is rubbish, or if you blow anything up, Please ask me any questions before you jump in feet first.

Parts needed.
1 x Battery that will fit in the Kango body. I used a 12v battery. £6.00
1 X Speaker. £3.75
1 x 4GB memory card. Micro SD £5.00
1 x Micro SD card reader to plug into your pc. £2.00
1 x UBEC. £4.75
1 X Amplifier £3.00
1 x IDE 40 pin cable £2.00
1 x LCD Display £20.00
1 x Controller £20.00
1 x Green LED £0.50p 5mm size
1 x Red LED £0.50p 5mm size
2 x Resistors £0.50p 2x 270Ω (ohm) resistor
2 x Slide switch. £4.00
Various wire £4.00 size used 7/0.2
Heat shrink £2.00
Solder £3.00
Small piece of plastic. £1.00
Cable ties £2.00
Piece of alloy plate £4.00
Paypal donation.

The above prices are all approximate, but will not cost you any more. The main money is spent on a controller and the TFT display.
The display I could only get from China. And the last display I ordered was different internally from the first one I ordered but I was able to fit it. Note again I cannot be responsible for the screen you get sent or if they change their design.

All parts are easy to locate, and the controller is easy to get working as I will send you the image.

The LEDs and slide switches are only needed if you want to remove the original parts and have flashing LEDs and working switches.

Here is a view.


Video.
http://vid3.photobucket.com/albums/y98/ ... myp1ef.mp4

If you are interested in building this leave a reply.

_________________
Pt. G. Pusey.
Supplier of dog tags.
I`m willing to trade for an items not everone needs the cash.
Armour by Terry English.

Thanks Gary, for helping me with the build of the Motion Tracker.

I can't wait until its all built and tracking Aliens

_________________
Pvt. Robert E. Davies

69th Regt. 1st Batt. Homer’s Heroes

A08/TQ1.0.02129E1

Glad you was impressed.

_________________
Pt. G. Pusey.
Supplier of dog tags.
I`m willing to trade for an items not everone needs the cash.
Armour by Terry English.

Links to parts.
Controller Raspberry pi A+. http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/8332699/
Must be the type a+


TFT display. http://feeldo.net/products/139-digital- ... ensor.aspx
ebay seller. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231729993983? ... EBIDX%3AIT


UBEC. loads on ebay just search UBEC.


Amp board.
ebay search lm386 200 gain.


Speaker. http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/025w-mylar-sp ... 56mm-vc85g


switches for slide viewer. http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/slide-switches/0337497/


battery. I used a dc 168 battery. battery with charger from ebay search dc 168 battery


My raspberry pi image. https://mega.nz/#!kZkCDLiI!GvTFYrx9XyxW ... m1_FTvuLxQ

Tutorial.
Step 1:
We will start by preparing the ide cable.
1: The cable will come with a multi pin plug on both ends. Cut the cable in half. So you now have 2 multi pin plugs.
2: Now place the ide cable on a table, with the plug away from you and wires facing towards you. All the pin holes facing the table.
3: Working from left to right.
4: Tear each wire from the cable next to it. Pull it all the way down to the multi pin plug. Starting with the first on the left (number 1)
5: Now repeat pulling back wires to multi plug. 2 then 3 then 4 all up to 16.
6: Any wires to the right after counting 16 are not required. So from 17 on wards cut them flush with the multi plug. (wire now to your right)
7: We now remove a few of the 16 wires you have left.
8: From left to right
9: wire 1 keep, wire 2 keep, wire 3 will be removed so cut it back to multi block. wire 4 keep, wire 5 remove as you did for wire 3. wire 6 keep, wire 7 keep, wire 8 remove, wire 9 keep, wire 10 remove, wire 11 keep, wire 12 remove, wire 13 keep, wire 14 remove, wire 15 keep, wire 16 keep.
So you should now have 10 wires left.
From now on wires will be counted 1 to 10 from left to right.

Should look like this but you will have 1 extra wire. Number 16.



Step 2:
From now on wires will be numbered 1 to 10 from left to right.
1: Cut all the wires to about 3 inch long.
2: wire 1 now needs a resistor adding to the end of the wire. Strip part of plastic covering away. And solder resistor to wire. 270Ω (ohm) resistor
3: Now count from wire 1 to wire 8. wire 8 will need a resistor adding. 270Ω (ohm) resistor
4: now solder aprox 6 inch of wire to the end of both resistors. And cover the resistor in heat shrink (NO BARE CABLE EXPOSED)
This is the feeds for the red and green led`s

Step 3:
Connecting the wire to the lm386 amp.

1: The board as 4 pins to the left.
2: Bottom pin (GND) solder 4 inch of black wire to the pin.
3: Next pin up (GND) solder 4 inch of wire to the pin. ( i used brown ) but up to you.
4: next pin up (IN) solder 4 inch of wire to the pin. ( i used purple ) but up to you.
5: Final pin (ACC) solder 4 inch of red wire to the pin.
6: Cover all 4 soldered areas with heat shrink.

Step 4:
Plastic mounting plate.
1: Get a bit of plastic.
2: And place the raspberry pi on the plastic.
3: Draw around the raspberry pi.
4: now cut out the shape.
5: now place raspberry pi back on the plate.
6: mark and drill the 4 outer holes that are on the raspberry pi onto the plastic plate.


Step 5:
Mount the amp and ubec to the plastic plate.

Then drill some holes and cable tie the items in place.

Step 6:
The UBEC.

1: The ubec has input and a output.
2: (input) this will be the the feed from the battery.
3: (output) this will be the feed to power up the items.

Step 7:
1: Now cable tie the plastic board to the back of the raspberry pi.
2: Plug the ide cable onto the raspberry pi, with wires running down the board.
3: The output wire from the UBEC run it tidally around to the ide cable wires.
4: The RED wire output from the UBEC now needs soldering to the ide cable number 2.
5: The black wire output from the UBEC now needs wrapping around ide cable number 4. Do not solder yet.
6: Now the RED wire from the AMP board run it tidally around to the ide cable wires.
7: Solder the red wire to ide cable wire number 3.
8: Now the BLACK wire from the AMP board run it tidally around to the ide cable wires. And wrap the wire around ide cable wire number 4 (you should now have 2 wires ready to solder)
9: Now solder the wires in place. And cover soldered area using heat shrink.
10: Now solder 6 inch of any colored wire to ide cable wire number 5 (i used white)
11: Now solder 6 inch of BLACK colored wire to ide cable wire number 6
12: Now solder 6 inch of any colored wire to ide cable wire number 7 (i used white)
13: Now solder 6 inch of any colored wire to ide cable wire number 9 (i used white)
14: Now solder 6 inch of any colored wire to ide cable wire number 10 (i used white)
Wire numbers 5/7/9/10 will trigger videos. wire 6 is ground. Add a bit of tape to the wires and put the correct number on it for reference.

Step 9:
1: You now have 2 wires left on the amp board, i used brown and purple.
2: Run both the wires around to the 3.5 mm headphone jack on the raspberry pi.
3: Cover up surrounding area using tape.

4: solder the two wires in place.

5: Now get 6 inch of yellow wire, strip the end off and solder the wire end.
6: Now feed the yellow wire threw the back end of the 3.5mm jack, till it pokes out the front of the 3.5mm jack housing.
7: The yellow wire needs soldering to the video feed. it`s on the bottom you should see the metal plate in the jack hole.
8: Get the yellow soldered wire hot and pull wire back into jack housing it should solder to the video plate in the jack housing.

Now test to see if its working.
Insure now bare wires are touching the boards or wires touching each other.
The UBEC input wires red and black connect them to your battery supply. Make sure you get the red and black correct way round. You should now have the led on the UBEC lighting up, the led on the amp board. And a green and red small led on the raspberry pi.

Step 10:
Copy my image to a memory card.
1: Download my image from here. https://mega.nz/#!kZkCDLiI!GvTFYrx9XyxW ... m1_FTvuLxQ
Note: It`s a 8 gig image so may take a long time to download.
2: Download the tool to burn the image once downloaded. http://sourceforge.net/projects/win32di ... p_redirect
3: Connect your memory card to your P.C.
4: how to use win32diskimager

Using Win32DiskImager
1: Having plugged in your SD card, (re)start Win32Diskimager. Choose the drive you want to copy the image to (in my case F: ).
2: Choose the drive with your SD card to write the the image on
3: Then click on the folder icon and choose the image (final build 4 triggers.img) Then click Write, to write my image on to the card.
4: Then click Write file to SD card
5: You will then be asked to confirm. Check carefully that you are writing to the correct device and if so, click Yes.
6: Check device and confirm
The progress bar will show you how far it’s got.
Finished

Your image is now ready to put into your raspberry pi.
you should be able to find and insert the memory card into the raspberry pi.
At this point you can plug a hdmi cable into the raspberry pi and connect it to your tv in the living room.
Connect a battery again and you should shortly see this logo on the bottom right of your tv.

From what i remember it will be upside down and have no sound. don't worry this is due to how i rotated the screen image and forced sound to the 3.5mm jack.
After the boot screen you will see the static image.
Now if you want you should have 4 wires any colour i said you could use (i used white). Video triggers, expose a tiny bit of wire, now hold it on the metal outer body of the usb port. (NOT the RED wires there are led feeds) you will now see the video.

Step 11:
The tft display.
You should have received a display by now, so lets strip it down.
1: you should see on the rear body there are 4 screw holes, remove them screws.
2: Now you should be seeing the display board and back of the tft display. It may be glued or screwed in place.
3: Remove the display by removing the glue or the screws.
4: Cut the plug off just before it splits into 2 cables. you will now be able to remove the plastic body from the cable.
5: Now strip the cable to reveal the wires inside. you will have red/white/black.

Step 12:
Connecting display to the raspberry pi.
1: Connect the red and black wires to your battery. (test fit)
2: You should have that yellow wire coming from the 3.5 jack on the raspberry pi. Connect that yellow wire to the white wire from the tft display.
3: Now connect the battery to the raspberry pi as you did before.
You will now be seeing the image on the display.

Step 13:
The speaker.
1: The speaker has + and -
2: Solder about 12 inch of wire to the speaker terminals.
3: On the amp there is 2 speaker connectors using screws.
4: Put the wires from the speaker to the amp + and -(- is the lower one) + is the top one.
5: turn tiny volume knob on the board.
You now have sound.

Whats next ?
You now have working electronics, this all needs fitting inside the motion tracker.
Inside mine is set up like this.
raspberry pi and battery sit in the top section of the kango. (i used my dremel to remove the 4 unused screw fixings for extra room)
And i made a alloy plate to fix my raspberry pi to the kango. and see on off switch. top right.

The black tube i used to join the kango to slide viewer. I feed 7 wires inside the tube. So display from raspberry pi, led feeds and one video trigger.

I fitted a external on off switch that just breaks my battery + feed.
My battery is charged via this.


Screen inside the slide viewer.
I made a alloy plate to fit all my parts to. The real working switches leds, and the tft display.

fitted parts.

my viewer removable case is flat inside to allow the switches and leds to sit correctly.

The metal plate fits in the groves in the original viewer and the display fixed to the front of the plate.

My speaker is mounted in the kango lower section, the part here the bushes where fitted behind the removable doors.

_________________
Pt. G. Pusey.
Supplier of dog tags.
I`m willing to trade for an items not everone needs the cash.
Armour by Terry English.

[edit]Move along, nothing to see

_________________
AKA: Simon

That's because I'm still working on the rest. But so far only rob showed interest. The tutorial will be simple as it just requires wires soldering to the ide cable.

_________________
Pt. G. Pusey.
Supplier of dog tags.
I`m willing to trade for an items not everone needs the cash.
Armour by Terry English.

You can officially count me as 'intensely interested'. When it is all laid out so simply, how can you not take a stab at it?!

I'm interested !

interested as well

_________________
Reformed Pacifist

Excellent work!

One request: Can you upload the pics to the forum, as hosting on photobucket and the like tends to be temporary and if on the forum, they'll stay here forever/until the forum closes down.

_________________
Steve
Corporal in 69th Regt. 1st Batt. Homer’s Heroes.

"I'd like to die at the age of 80 in my own bed, with a belly full of wine and a girl's mouth around my c**k."

How do i upload the links or images via the aliens legacy ?

_________________
Pt. G. Pusey.
Supplier of dog tags.
I`m willing to trade for an items not everone needs the cash.
Armour by Terry English.

I might have missed it, but will this work with Spat's tracker?

Use the upload attachment bit below the post editor

_________________
AKA: Simon

It may be tight, but you can always thin the inside walls as needed.

_________________
My entry-level prop and costume tutorials: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12751

has anyone attempted or completed this build?

I second that. I have a real part and one kit from Spat just sitting in a box waiting for me to build.

Thanks!

Greg

_________________
CPL A08/TQ0.0.12146E1
Newell, Greg A aka Gman
Illinois - USA
UKCM
Shoot first, think never.
Good? Bad? I'm the guy with the gun.
SMMFD
The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was convincing the world he doesn't exist.