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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 12:30 pm 
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Service Number: A03/TQ1.0.12143G1
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demoncase wrote:
How/where did you source that from, good sir?

I seriously need that for my M41 :)


Derrick Baena was the creator of Armat and the PR plate. I actually just bought his Pulse Rifle manual; fantastic stuff and highly recommended.

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 Post subject: Re: Charlie's Colonial Marine Build
PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 1:12 pm 
MODEL 120-A2
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Service Number: A04/TQ0.0.72178E5
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robiwon wrote:
Looks good! I may have to do another to incorporate the Marine's logo.

I like you sling mounts and am going to follow your lead on this mod. Question, how well do you think the front triangle mount will hold up to the weight of the gun with the sling? The tab on the bottom of the triangle does not have a lot of surface area inside the SPAS. I'm afraid of the triangle pulling thru the SPAS.


It could happen. It feels pretty solid to me, but I also drilled through the light sensor, so some of the stress is put on the barrel as well as the SPAS shroud. I think that is the real key to keeping the triangle from moving through the SPAS. By keeping the plastic piece, it wedges the triangle into the barrel so there is very little movement (much less movement than the vent shroud along the barrel). Also, I'm not planning on airsofting with mine; I plan on just wearing it at cons and whatnot. I'm not going to put putting a lot of stress on a sling. For my purposes, just ease of carrying the rifle, then I don't think the stress point is going to be an issue. And I did hold the sling points and just try to fling the rifle around; nothing crazy but they held up to it.

Charlie

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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 1:19 pm 
MODEL 120-A2
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Service Number: A04/TQ0.0.72178E5
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demoncase wrote:
How/where did you source that from, good sir?

I seriously need that for my M41 :)


here is the file I created:

Image

The total picture size is 2"x4". The actual name plate is just under 1.25" wide. I sized the whole thing at 2x4 to fit on Avery 18863 2"x4" Clear Easy Peel Shipping Labels. Handy things. I used a paper cutter to trim the label to find the edges.

Here is the sized verizon for printing. And everything should be spelled correctly this time. :)

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retrogarde wrote:
Derrick Baena was the creator of Armat and the PR plate. I actually just bought his Pulse Rifle manual; fantastic stuff and highly recommended.


I've never heard of that. Where could I find a copy? Amazon?

Charlie

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Last edited by SGT KITTEN on Tue Mar 26, 2013 3:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 2:21 pm 
Prop Churner Outer
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It is a self-published deal, so you can buy it directly from him. He customizes it (if you want) for each individual Marine. I'll PM you his info if you'd like. Do a Google search for Baena Pulse Rifle and you can see some sample pages. I'd say it's right up your alley Charlie!

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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 2:24 pm 
MODEL 120-A2
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Service Number: A04/TQ0.0.72178E5
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retrogarde wrote:
It is a self-published deal, so you can buy it directly from him. He customizes it (if you want) for each individual Marine. I'll PM you his info if you'd like. Do a Google search for Baena Pulse Rifle and you can see some sample pages. I'd say it's right up your alley Charlie!


Sure, shoot me a PM. I'm always interested in cool stuff!

Charlie

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 4:34 pm 
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Location: Southern Ontario
Country: Canada
Charlie, do you mind if I use your label? I may stick one on my PR...

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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 5:05 pm 
MODEL 120-A2
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Service Number: A04/TQ0.0.72178E5
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Magnus wrote:
Charlie, do you mind if I use your label? I may stick one on my PR...


Not at all.

Charlie

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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 5:21 pm 
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Location: San Diego CA
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SGT KITTEN wrote:
demoncase wrote:
How/where did you source that from, good sir?

I seriously need that for my M41 :)


here is the file I created:

Image

The total picture size is 2"x4". The actual name plate is just under 1.25" wide. I sized the whole thing at 2x4 to fit on Avery 18863 2"x4" Clear Easy Peel Shipping Labels. Handy things. I used a paper cutter to trim the label to find the edges.

Here is the sized verizon for printing. And everything should be spelled correctly this time. :)

Image

[quote="retrogarde"]
what was the font you used for the SN would like to make a custom number that has some meaning?

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 5:23 pm 
MODEL 120-A2
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Service Number: A04/TQ0.0.72178E5
Country: United States
Go to dafont.com. Awesome site. The name of the font is some crazy German military font. I will see if I can find it and cut and paste the name. On my mobile right now.

http://www.dafont.com/blockschrift-fur- ... sort=alpha

Charlie

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 3:13 am 

Country: United States
Awesome build!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 3:16 am 

Country: United States
SGT KITTEN wrote:
punkmarine wrote:
Hi Charlie

Can I ask why you aren't thinking about using a SA camo paint job on your armour?

Just a thought, but you may want to go more fully SA in the future (as many do, with the correct BDU's etc) and will then have to repaint the armour.

The SA armour camo will still look fine with your multi-cams IMHO.

Martin


I suppose it's mainly my personality coming out, just like why I chose multicam instead of screen accurate BDUs. I've done SA costumes before (I was part of the 501st and had a lot of approved costumes). But when things are made for a movie, they're made to look good for the specific scenes they are in. They aren't really functional. For example, to be screen accurate, I would take foam blocks and wrap them in the OD canvas, just like they did for Frost's pouches. But that doesn't hold up to really close inspection. I try not to look good at 20 feet away, or 10 feet away, but right up close and personal. So when I work on a costume, I go for as much real world functionality as I can. As another example, I've got a SA ESB Boba Fett. Looks great. Takes me about 45 minutes to actually get suited up, I need at least one other person to get me in it, and I can't really sit down. When I built my custom Mandalorian, I redesigned the whole function of the costume. I can put it on in 15 minutes, by myself, I can walk and run and sit down and go to the bathroom (damn near impossible in the Fett) but it still looks like it could have walked off the screen of a Star Wars movie. I came out with this:

Image

Not a Fett, but everyone knows it's Star Wars when they see it. More over, I love the look. I apply the same philosophy to the Colonial Marine. I'm going to take the ideas inspired by the movie look; where they work I use them. Where I think they don't, I change them. I want to go for a Marine that looks like what I want it to look like. So for the BDUs, I would rather resew a set of multicam, cause I just love that camo scheme. Same for the armor. The originals were hand painted on with brush; I won't do that cause I don't like the look (and I hate painting that way anyway). I would rather go with a custom paintjob that I like over trying to match the screen. Hopefully I will end up with a paintjob that I really like that is still recognizable as Colonial Marine.

Bit of a longwinded answer, but I hope that answers your question. :)

Charlie



Do you have any more pics of this????


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 9:39 pm 
MODEL 120-A2
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Service Number: A04/TQ0.0.72178E5
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jameth wrote:
Do you have any more pics of this????


LOL, yeah I have a lot more of my Mando. But I won't clog up the CM build thread with it. Head over to the Mandalorian Mercs forums and you can see my build thread from v1.0 to v4.5.

Charlie

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 Post subject: Re: Charlie's Colonial Marine Build
PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 4:41 am 

Service Number: A06/TQ1.0.72129E1
Country: United States
Charlie, sorry for the backtrack, but what did you do with the steel pins? I've painted my parts and I'm close to reassembly, but the pins were a bear to separate, and honestly seem like a bad idea for an airsoft gun which is meant for upgrades and modifications. I might want to take it apart again for further mods. I tried pulling them out with pliers, but they won't budge. I'm considering dremelling them off. Did you keep or discard yours? Your expert opinion would be appreciated. Or anyone who has addressed the pins for that matter.

Thank you,

-Dan


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 4:52 am 
MODEL 120-A2
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Service Number: A04/TQ0.0.72178E5
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Lol. I'd hardly call my opinion expert, but I left the pins in. I felt it kept the two halves very stable and secure. I know others have removed them but I don't trust the plastic pins to keep the halves aligned nor the screws to hold it together. However I don't plan on using mine for airsoft so I don't have plans for further disassembly. I wouldn't dremel them unless you have no other choice. It could be hard finding replacement parts if you needed them. Even if you leave them in you won't be taking it apart to that level on a routine basis. Just my opinion though; there is a thread on the RPF where I know others have removed them and not experienced problems.

Charlie

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 Post subject: Re: Charlie's Colonial Marine Build
PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 5:14 am 

Service Number: A06/TQ1.0.72129E1
Country: United States
Thank you! I will probably leave them be, then. I'm not an air softer either, but I've spent enough hours on this mod and I have been worried about the reassembly. Your build has been very helpful. Thanks again!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 6:37 am 
MODEL 120-A2
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Service Number: A04/TQ0.0.72178E5
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Just remember to apply gently increasing pressure over the pins to reseat. Make sure that ou get the plastic knobs lines up right and then close the gap as much as you can. When you've got it to less than a quarter inch, give it a good rap on the front and back. I laid my down on on padded carpet to prevent damage.

Charlie

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 Post subject: Re: Charlie's Colonial Marine Build
PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 1:07 pm 
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Location: Kentucky USA
Service Number: A03/TQ1.0.12132E1
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I wont be airsofting with mine so I took mine out. I used a large pair of pliers and gently twisted them out. Your going to squish the end you grip though, so keep that in mind. I've torn my gun apart many times over doing mods so I am glad I left them out. The gun still feel sturdy enough though. The three major support points are still there, the four large screws anchoring the shrouds together, the four smaller screws that anchor the barrel block to the shrouds, and the rear bottom strap under the stock.

I'm also going to replace the small screws that hold the mag well shroud plates on with longer, slightly larger screws. I see those stripping to easily.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 3:24 am 
MODEL 120-A2
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Service Number: A04/TQ0.0.72178E5
Country: United States
So a bunch of updates!

I got my sling from Noble. Tough, awesome quality, and it looks great on the PR!

Image

The sling mounts are holding up well. I've carried it slung on my back for a while, tried a few quick moves. All the settings seem rock solid, no movement, and I haven't detected any stress issues on the front mounting. I'm still not going to trust it too much, but I'm confident it will be fine for a con carry.

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I started work on the magazine and caseless ammo. I started by punching out the push pins and removing the magazine internals.

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easy enough. I then got some 38 Spl slugs (Hornaday Critical Defense rounds, in case anyone was interested) and a few 1/2" poplar square dowels. I also finally broke down and got a band saw. Basically, I took the poplar dowels and cut them down, mitered the edges, and painted them. I then drill out the slug to add a pin, flush mounted them to the dowel bits, and glued the whole thing together.

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This is where I drilled a small pilot hole in the slugs for the pinning.

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I used a Krylon Boots Brown to paint the ammo. The theoretical caseless round is supposed to be a solidified nitro-celluose propellant. So basically, the wood grain isn't unrealistic and neither is the color.

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I epoxed the slugs on, and superglued the rounds into one block. Then I added one extra blank dowel to the bottom, and used a piece of 1/8" black craft foam on the sides to "wedge" the whole thing into the magazine. Fairly sturdy.

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I also added one of Noble's mag kits.

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It fits nice and flush with shroud.

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My sidearm has also arrived. A WE Gas blowback 1911. Remarkable fit for the M4A3. :)

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I did mod it a bit; the orange tip is removed; so is the 6mm internal barrel. One, it looks more realistic now, and two, I can easily add my orange plug if needed by a con.

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The slide will rack, the gun is all metal, and it makes a great "cha-chunk" sound when you rack it.

Uniform is supposed to be completed tomorrow, and I'm going to see about having a machine shop in my town do a run of metal grenades. I don't know if it will be cost effective, but it won't hurt to ask.

Charlie

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 Post subject: Re: Charlie's Colonial Marine Build
PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 3:51 am 

Service Number: A06/TQ1.0.72129E1
Country: United States
Whoa! Those caseless rounds are awesome! What a great prop. The sling looks fantastic, too. Very screen accurate. Your build thread has been very helpful. :delta:


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 4:35 am 
SPQR
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Location: Southern Ontario
Country: Canada
Yet again, great work! Love the rounds...and the Colt looks awesome.

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Ps3 - TLantMAGNUS - My Marine build: http://forum.alienslegacy.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12690

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 5:11 am 
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Location: North Bay Area, California
Service Number: A01/TQ1.0.02128E1
Country: United States
Cool beans, I have the KJW colt licensed M1911A1 .45 pistol. It's pretty darned accurate and looks just like the real thing when you fire it. It's all metal too and looks almost exactly like yours.

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 Post subject: Re: Charlie's Colonial Marine Build
PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 10:51 am 
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Location: Kentucky USA
Service Number: A03/TQ1.0.12132E1
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Those rounds look great! Nifty idea you had. I'm going to have to look into doing something like this.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 1:17 am 
MODEL 120-A2
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Service Number: A04/TQ0.0.72178E5
Country: United States
BDUs are ready.

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My seamstress did an awesome job. The patches are on SECURELY. :)

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The modifications to the collar came out excellent I think.

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I also got a nametape put on a hat. I love the Propper ACU hats; they're fitted and lightweight. It's not screen accurate, but I like it.

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And a random picture with the PR.

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I've made some mods to my knife sheath to allow it to mount better to the shoulder straps. Hopefully I will get some pics of that up soon.

Charlie

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 1:20 am 
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Location: Rapid View, Saskatchewan
Service Number: A10/TQ1.0.32157E1
Country: Canada
Looks cool!! :) Awesome job!!

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 4:38 am 
MODEL 120-A2
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Service Number: A04/TQ0.0.72178E5
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Here's an older prop I made for my Resident Evil costume. I think I'm going to redo the label for some Colonial Marine gear. :)

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Charlie

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