was thw original burke card ever seen after production? seems like the kind of thing a crew member would have been given, it must be out there.

There were actually two, the one with the tapered end (seen in the closeup shots done by second unit) and the rectangular one held by Burke in the wide shots. Here is the rectangular version:



I have never seen either pop up in auctions, collections, etc. after the film's release.

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My entry-level prop and costume tutorials: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12751

That is pretty wild. A "traditional/modern" business card is 53mm x 91mm (3-3/4" x 2-1/4", or 51mm x 89mm on a UK website listing). In that promo shot, the rectangle card seems quite a bit larger than a 'regular' business card and is right out of the park compared to the estimated sizes on the previous page. The promo image must be what the run of oversized replicas were based on.

Meanwhile the vid-screen call featured a card with a logo that could fit in Ripley's fingernail, so much smaller.

Once you see it you will never unsee it:





The really strange thing is that the VidCom was already built. It was right there beside Paul Reiser while he was holding the rectangular card. You'd think they would have tested the card before shooting began.

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My entry-level prop and costume tutorials: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12751

I might import this design into a 3D program so I can move it into a similar position and see what the logo looks like .

First cuts and stiches of the material. Taking my time as it's wasy to forget something and end up with the wrong side of the material for the piece.

Great job djdrthq!

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My entry-level prop and costume tutorials: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12751

Looking great!

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AKA: Simon

Thanks Retrogarde and Reaper!

Working on pockets and test fitting. I should have checked the front parts of the shirt, the pattern is in the same position which looks weird. It will be under the armour most of the time anyway .

I think once the fasteners are on it will be less noticeable.

Are you going to weather the fabric at all or let it weather naturally?

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AKA: Simon

Yes it almost matches up when the two parts of the shirt over lap with the buttons. I may cut out another front half to mix it up still.

I'm going to wash it a few times and see what that does, hoping to get a more faded look eventually. I will do some weathering after that, likely with real world dirt and grime!

Finished up the shirt and pants over the weekend. Cut a new piece for the front of the shirt, looks better. Watched a few videos on youtube about doing a zip fly, managed to do it ok .

I may redo the collar, it's not quite right, may also add velcro panels to the arms so I can remove patches. Now hoping that the colour will fade and look better, otherwise I'll need to start over .

so impressive. I do a lot of sewing and this is a daunting task. the serging and details look perfect.

First time using a serger, didn't even know that it cuts excess material while it goes, that's why it looks nice!

So bleach is not as strong as I thought it was . Pic below is new material on the left, half hour soak in pure bleach in the middle and right is overnight soak in pure bleach.

Will continue testing on sample bits and then try the completed uniform.

try soaking in lemon juice and leaving in direct sunlight for a week

My go-to method (practiced on 1/6th uniforms, semi-perfected on my wife's Vaz style uniform) is Acrylic paint.
Mix some high quality acrylic white paint into distilled water. Might want to add a touch of blue, brown or green depending if you want to tweak the base colors.

Mix it up good, then either dip the uniform in or apply a heavy wash with a large brush. You need to watch the wrinkles as it air dries because the pigment will pool up in the low spots. Fix that by crubbing it down with a clean brush every few minutes to redistribute the wetness and color evenly until dry.

Remember it always dries lighter than you see it going on, so never panic. The advantage to me with this method is you never get a "too intense" surprise. You can always do it again and again to increase the effect, but its almost impossible to go overboard into something you regret.

Pop them and some rocks in a pillow case, then in the washing machine works a treat, but do at your own risk!!!

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AKA: Simon

I'm all out of sunlight here at the moment, otherwise that would probably do it on its own .

White paint was going to be another test, so thanks for the confirmation on that BigbisonT.

Will see if the wife lets me turn the washing machine into a rock weathering unit .

So I've done two overnight soaks in a bleach mix and left it on the line for several days. It has taken some of the colour out. Tried some white paint on some scraps and it made the material very stiff, also tried airbrushing and that lightend things but the base colours are too far off to make it work well. I think the bleach and sunlight will do the trick. I've got another scrap in pure bleach and will leave that for 3-4 days and see what happens.

I've done some weathering to the shirt and pants.

-Used a spray bottle of watered down brown acrylic to generally spray over both items.
-Dabbed/rubbed/brushed some black boot polish over some parts.
-Used various Vallejo paints to add some splatter of dirt/mud colours to various areas
-Rubbed in some dirt/coloured grout mix to the knees, elbows and seat area.
-Took a brand new pair of cheap black boots and made them look old

One nice benefit of making your own fatigues is you can really lean into the battle wear and distressing. Looks very cool!

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True, I'm happy to do whatever on this set. Would not want to do it to a bought set

Just to be clear I meant the risk of lost time (ordering a set from a vendor usually means waiting as long as a year to receive it), not that your set didn't have a value in both labor and material.

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Picked up a straight knurling tool to do grooves in the M40 grenade. It worked well, I just need to hit the mark a little better

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZKsELJVcOs

Nice! Great work