Simon ...
about the clapboard, all segments are in vertical, not tilted.

Yes Tarim-rex, it is wider at bottom: from 16 mm to 18 mm,
for a length of 25 mm

Bye
Giò

Just got the 2.5mm connectors in:



It's always amazing to see how small this stuff actually is - it looks so much bigger in those fotos...

Cheers,
Stefan

As for the Spartan/Longbow/Phalanx-nozzle:
It looks like this on the inside:
http://www.starshipmodeler.info/gallery13/es_Spartan_04.jpg

Cheers,
Stefan

If I'm looking at the right part (exhaust) I think the "ribs" go the wrong way.


also, if anyone can get me the part of Spunky's helmet that holds the night vision sight, the part that goes over the topof the helmet. I can pull it in ABS.

_________________
Rob Slater
A08/TQ2.0.42136E1

After all the terrible news lately here now something positive:

The ARII Orguss Variable Drifand proved to be a goldmine (compared to the other kits):



Cheers,
Stefan

Edit: The Revell Tabor/Imai Orguss looks similar but is a differnd kit!

Woo!

Pity I can't find one

Blimey!!! You've got a bonanza there!!

_________________
"The other Gareth"

Stefan,

Did you get your Harley yet?

Nope,

but it should be here within the week. I'll post an update as soon as I get it.

Cheers,
Stefan

So is the plan to find all the pieces and make molds so everyone can have a helmet attachment package?

_________________

Yay!!

_________________
Rob Slater
A08/TQ2.0.42136E1

I didn't intend to mould all separate parts, as I don't want to have to mould everthing twice.

Now if we identified everything....

While waiting for the parts I started some CAD work:



That way it will be much easier to model the missing parts.

Cheers,
Stefan

The (as yet) unidentified vented part will be difficult to replicate without rotocasting. I guess it could be vac-formed, but I don't have the facilties to do that.

Nice work Stefan.

If the whole thing can be reproduced as a CAD file could it be created on a 3D printer, then moulds taken from it?

Harry

_________________

http://www.facebook.com/TheHHACA - @TheHHACA

That'd be one way to do it. The other way would be to use a mix of original parts and printed parts to make the mold master.

Cheers,
Stefan

Woo Hoo @ Stephan

_________________
A72/TQ6.6.95356E8





"I plan to live forever.........or die trying!"

Do you have access to one?

Not personally, but I know someone who knows a bit about it. Shouldn't be too hard to get done.

Harry

_________________

http://www.facebook.com/TheHHACA - @TheHHACA

It's not cheap mind.

...of course it someone is able to do it at work...while nobody is looking...

_________________
"The other Gareth"

Don't those machines produce models composed of visible layers?

I remember a guy used one on the RPF to make some Halo guns, and they cme out ptetty bad.

Is the technology better now?

Looks like BS is a little farther than me.

Did this in a few hours one night.




He then didn't know how to finish them.

Some machines are better than others, but you pay the price.


I think it would be best to SLA or SLS a master to mold off of.


If you look at my previous picts on page 7, I already placed printed parts on my helmet.

Also, I think it wouldn't be a good idea to mix found parts with
printed parts. There is a lot of bondo blending in between parts,
so I'm making the whole piece as it would be one.

Weeel, I'm going ahead with building the parts the old-fashioned way

I don't have 3-D modelling skills, and in any case, building things physically is a part of the hobby I really enjoy.

I've started reworking the right-hand hand earpiece I built, now I'm able to utilise the excellent photos and info provided by Gio.

The Tabor parts Stefan discovered will be a great help forward.

BTW,

Has this part (purple) been IDed yet?