looks to me your on the right track

_________________
SSgt Kris "Bloodsucker" Kobus, VAS.
A09/TQ2.0.12136E1

Yeah it's looking like a lot of work Venger but I reckon it'll look pretty good when you've finished.

Just a question from looking at your latest pic's. There seem to be a lot of air bubbles in some of the parts. Is this pretty normal for resin kits?

Cheers.

John.

Thanks for the feedback.
I think it all depends on the quality of resin used and how good the maker is. I've seen better pulls and also seen far, far worse.
I don't think Spats' rifle is as bad as mine. His looks to require little to no work.
There's a build thread. You might have already seen it.

Not with good quality items. You get some tiny airholes, it all depends on how intricate the part is.

Spat's items have hardly any.

_________________
Steve
Corporal in 69th Regt. 1st Batt. Homer’s Heroes.

"I'd like to die at the age of 80 in my own bed, with a belly full of wine and a girl's mouth around my c**k."

Very small update today.
Multiput hardened overnight, so I sanded it all down flat to give a nice finish.

I've now glued and clamped the shroud together.
Nothing else to do today. I will do more tomorrow once the glue has dried.

Looking good so far!

_________________
DKMax

Once more into the fray. Into the last good fight I'll ever know. Live and die on this day. Live and die on this day. (The Grey)

I can back this up, had about 3 airholes on the grip section and a fair few on the inside sights section on the shroud but these were very small to tiny so left them as they were. the GL section had none at all

_________________
DKMax

Once more into the fray. Into the last good fight I'll ever know. Live and die on this day. Live and die on this day. (The Grey)

Good work!

Spat (PR, belt tool, ... ) 1 or 2 and the PR is quite a large peace.
Matt resin kits have hardly any, in fact my shoulder lamp had none.

On the other side the welder kit recast had let's say more than 3 airholes and wasn't that solid as Spat's or Matt's items.
It's what you pay for.

_________________
Sgt. Frank Peters 'reload' Smartgun Operator
A03/TQ3.0.12136E1 "It will be no picknick!"
AL Colonial Admin. - Sergeant at Arms (SgtA) -- 2020-2022
GERCM - Executive Officer (XO)
UKCM Foreign Legion: The Deviant Dragoons

Good work,it's looking cool

Helen

Just one update today.
Glue has dried, so I've filled in the crack all the way around the shroud so it'll look like one piece instead of having that ugly join line all the way around.

I may need to go over some parts again with the multiput.
If anyone else is thinking of doing this, I'd suggest you get car body filer instead as this multiput isn't the best to work with.



There'll probably be only one more update until the LED arrives.

Hi guys,

Thanks for the info. on the air bubbling etc. Seems like it varies enormously from manufacturer to manufacturer, with Spat being amngst the best as far as resin kits go.
Is re-casting from existing kits a fairly common thing amongst the sci-fi costuming community then?

All this said it looks like you're working wonders with this kit Venger.

Cheers.

John.

More problems - HURRAY!

As you can see from the pics the...err..cocking mechanism (?) part doesn't fit. It's smaller than the gap and doesn't fit flush to the bottom of the shroud or the sides. No real way to get it to sit properly even with sanding.
Also both the side are out. All these gaps will have to be filled with the multiput and sanded back so it at least looks like it's sitting where it should.

Ooooo that's bad
I know resin can shrink abit when cast but that's taking the urine!
Did you cut out the groove for the cocking handle or was it like that when you got the kit?

Looks salvagable though on the plus side.

Am I right in thinking there's three flat head screws cast into the top of the stock?

_________________
AKA: Simon

That's a bit of a large gap for milliput u may be better off with a filler

_________________
SSgt Kris "Bloodsucker" Kobus, VAS.
A09/TQ2.0.12136E1

Yeh, that or perhaps fill most of the gap with a bit of cardboard then seal the edges with milliput/filler.

_________________
AKA: Simon

I did post a reply and it seems to have vanished. Strange.
Yeah the gap will be filled somehow - either multiput or sealer or something else.

The stock does indeed have 3 screws cast into it.
I didn't cut the cocking handle it came the way it is.

That's bad
Hope you find something (wood, metal, cardboard, ... and a filler) to close the gap.

Keeping fingers crossed.

_________________
Sgt. Frank Peters 'reload' Smartgun Operator
A03/TQ3.0.12136E1 "It will be no picknick!"
AL Colonial Admin. - Sergeant at Arms (SgtA) -- 2020-2022
GERCM - Executive Officer (XO)
UKCM Foreign Legion: The Deviant Dragoons

if you go down the route as suggested by Reaper and 577 then plasticard would be your best bet this comes in various thickness and is inexpensive

_________________
SSgt Kris "Bloodsucker" Kobus, VAS.
A09/TQ2.0.12136E1

Seems a waste to use plasticard in my view .

_________________
AKA: Simon

maybe but the finish would look better

_________________
SSgt Kris "Bloodsucker" Kobus, VAS.
A09/TQ2.0.12136E1

The finish would be determined by the finish of the filler, what's under it won't matter.

_________________
AKA: Simon

lol i think we are both talking about the same thing but from dif angles i ment put plasticard on the outside and filler in the middle

_________________
SSgt Kris "Bloodsucker" Kobus, VAS.
A09/TQ2.0.12136E1

Is multiput the same as milliput epoxy putty? I used milliput when assembling my spulse and it worked great filling gaps and bonded well. Just mix it up in your hand, push it in the gap and then use a decent clean craft knife to cut and level the sides/ edges. I had to do this on the GL section of my spulse.

_________________
DKMax

Once more into the fray. Into the last good fight I'll ever know. Live and die on this day. Live and die on this day. (The Grey)

id also go for milliput, once mixed and in place if you wet your fingers you can reshape things with ease esp if you need to extend the part like you do. myself id add milliput to the part itself, after its in position wet shape it, then sand off the milliput gradually when its hard (24hrs later) until you have the correct angle you need and it will be a tight fit for final fitting. milliput is the best 2 pounds i ever spend when making models

Hahaha! yep, both on about a different method!
I say to fill 90% of the gap with cardboard then coat that in the filler, then sand. Should be allot easier than having to cut out the plasticard to fit exactly, plus there'll be no seam and you'll save about 40p worth of milliput

I never like wasting stuff you have to pay for

_________________
AKA: Simon