Finally got round to pulling apart my Reflecta as part of a shoulder lamp build, so I thought I'd post up some disassembly pics (as I've not seen a guide on here).

Forgot to take a pre-disassembly photo, so here's one pulled from the interwebs


Taking the lamp apart is fairly straightforward. You will need -

• a small blade screwdriver
• a pair of pliers,
• a small adjustable spanner/crescent wrench
• and possibly side cutters /knife (depending on if you care about saving the lamp electrics).

First, remove the four locking nuts [red arrows]. Once the nuts are off, the 'rod holders' [yellow arrows] will separate into two parts, and shade covers can be removed, as well as the top cover, the glass lens, and four spacers rings.



The top cover [blue arrow], the glass lens [green arrow], and four spacers [yellow arrow] are all shown removed here. The next set of nuts [read arrows], can now be undone (these were finger tight, and were easily removed without the need of tools.



Push the silver button [red arrow] on the underside of the lamp head to open. The bolts can now be removed (or left in place ... I removed mine as they were loose).



My lamp didn't come with a bulb, but I'd imagine this would be a good time to remove the bulb, should yours have one installed.
The internal reflector is very soft aluminium, and I was easily able to pry this out of the housing with my screwdriver. Note, this did bend the reflector, but once out of lamp, it was simple enough to bend back into place (although, I don't actually have a use for it yet ... )



Loosening these four bolts [red arrows] partially releases the top housing from the back housing's bolt holes [yellow arrows]. The wiring, and a super annoying sliding metal bar trap these two parts together (for now).



Here you can see the two wires [red arrows], which I choose to cut, and the metal bar [yellow arrow]. To remove without damaging the electrics, you could possibly try and access the two little nuts, one of which is just visible about the yellow arrow (shown in more detail in pic #10).



Removing these two nuts [red arrows] allows the whole top housing to be removed [yellow arrow].



Semi-exploded view of the lamp parts (roughly in order of removal, from top left to bottom right) -



The nuts [red arrows] holding the evil metal bar in place ... nuts removed [Oo-er], and bar can be taken out.

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Cpl Aron "septic" Williams
A10/TQ0.0.82146E1

Internal detail of the lamp's back housing. Fuse (removed; twists out from top) and zip-tied non-conductive material wrap (I'm guessing)[red arrows]. Power cord and locking bar/bolts [yellow arrows]. Wiring block [blue arrow] and on/off switch (removed in right side; pops out easily once tab is depressed)[green arrow].
.


Done. Ready for reassembly as a Marine should lamp.
Possibly useful to know is that all the bolts / nuts appear to be metric M3.




Lastly, some of you may wish to remove larger stacked fins/'vanes' from the lamp housing. This is not used in the shoulder lamp prop, but it does feature in another Aliens prop
To separate the two pieces, I first thought that the small steel rod used in the hinge must be tapped out. This is way harder than it needs to be (as the housing is in the way, and can't easily be bent).

Much easier to use the pliers to bend the outer parts of the hinge [red arrow in pic 12] open. I've done this, but not as yet bend these bits back in. I will form them back around the steel rod [yellow arrow in pic13], with gentle taps from a small hammer (removing the rod, once I'm done).





Note: the fins/vanes, both on this larger piece, and the smaller piece that is used for the shoulder lamp, are very thin and will easily bend. Care is needed to not distort them too much (although they can be bent back into shape, you risk breaking them, I suspect).

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Cpl Aron "septic" Williams
A10/TQ0.0.82146E1

There's some nice ref pics in this thread too - viewtopic.php?f=3&t=15342

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Cpl Aron "septic" Williams
A10/TQ0.0.82146E1

Always great when someone takes the time to put a tutorial together.
Very Nice.
Another note you might add is, not to throw away the larger rear housing, until after you collect (cut-out) the 7th vent.

Thank you

Re the 7th fin/vent - hmmm, yes, I've heard about that, but I didn't quite understand (given that the two vaned/vented housings are quite different sizes) ... more research required [by me], I think ...

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Cpl Aron "septic" Williams
A10/TQ0.0.82146E1

My shoulder lamp build thread shows the 7th fin. You will need an angle grinder to cut it out of the larger finned part.

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=17121

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Happy Happy, Joy Joy

Yep. It's a sneaky piece.
Hides in plain view.
(From your exploded photo above)

OH SH*T!!! You cut the base down/out to get that extra fin!?!? That's messed up / why would the Props team bother with the extra work?

Thanks to TS826 & stimpy for the info. [extra cheers stimpy, for the link to your archived build, I sadly missed that when I searched for lamp-related stuff; I defo would have ref-ed it in this thread if I'd found it early].

I've also edited my use of the term 'vane' to include fin as well, in a effort to use consistent terminology.

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Cpl Aron "septic" Williams
A10/TQ0.0.82146E1

Kind of related. What sort of bulb/hardware do you use for making the lamp working? UK links preferred.

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STEVENSON F.
A11/TQ0.0.82148E1

"You are not your Drop Count."

I regret removing the electronics and cutting out the swiveling shutter button. I would have liked to use the existing wires and use an oldschool bulb. Also wondering what people use to cut out the 7th fin. I'm thinking I'll use my dremel and even out the flatness of the sides with a grinder in a vice.