This is also part of my Mostly Metal Pulse thread, but as desperate thought I would do a seperate shout out.

My problem is that the Thompson is a working gas blowback and therefore the gap to insert a switch is tiny when Part A is locked down. I only found the mech jammed when the mag was inserted so I need to come up with a micro solution. My current microswitch with lever arm, was only 19.8mm long by 6mm and its just too big for the gap to allow the trigger mech to work. Its the smallest I can find.

Has any one else had this problem with a gas blowback?

Any help would be appreiciated. My initial thoughts are to file material off the back of Part A to increase the switch gap. It does not seem a load bearing part so this would not take and real strength out of the part. It looks however that I might still struggle to make the switch fit.

Are there other ways to take the trigger action to the counter board. I am using the Lightbenders, which has two wires to the board for the trigger.

Also and suggestions on Part C. This is loose on its shaft and moving the AUTO/SINGLE dial does nothing. The part appears to do nothing any way unless its operation becomes aparant when the Thompson is back in one piece.

For AUTO firing, does this arm lay flat or sit up vertically???

Any Help Appreciated.

Many Thanks for looking in.

_________________
WAR IS HELL.
But BUG HUNTS ARE FOR FUN!

Err.... is there suposed to be a diagram posted, or should we be guessing what Parts A, B, C, D, J, M, Q, etc are?
For the trigger mech (having not seen it), try a couple of thin contacts for the trigger wires.

Remind me - Whereabouts in the UK are you?

Sorry, forgot



Obviously, any solution needs to be robust and reliable. My old switch is in place ( the white block ) but fouls Past A when the mag is in place.

_________________
WAR IS HELL.
But BUG HUNTS ARE FOR FUN!

Yeah - Rip the switch out and just have bare contacts that complete the circuit when the trigger is rearmost.

I would imagine Part C is part of the sear mechanism that engages the bolt when the weapon is in semi-auto mode, but holds the sear out the way when in full auto. I'd have to see it in person to know more.

If you're anywhere near Reading, I'll happily have a look.

Thanks Dude..unfortunately I am near Warwick but much obliged for the generous offer.

I am totally clueless when it comes to electrics...LOL. I have a Battlestar Cylon Raider (TOS) half wired up and I nearly burned the battery out.....Totally Useless. Its awaiting inspiration.

The switch is out now.

I will have a think about getting some contacts in there. I have PM Matsuo but no answer as yet. He has probably built just about every combo there is.

Again Thanks for help. Will look into the action of part C further. Will a GBB gun use the gas pressure to push back the bolt for the next shot...not sure how they work really?

_________________
WAR IS HELL.
But BUG HUNTS ARE FOR FUN!

It depends on the individual model, which is why I'd need to see it.

Most GBB shooters *I've* seen use a small amount of gas, either in a reservoir or the individual casings, to cycle the shells and have what looks like a fully functioning weapon. These are the ones designed for theatrical and military re-enactment, though.

Airsoft GBB is slightly different and is designed around a reservoir, which is used to blast the 6mm BBs out. It either uses the backpressure behind the BB to cycle the slide/bolt and load the next round, or it can channel the gas into a recoil assembly for the same effect, just like real weapons.
Additionally, some GBBs operate with similar controls, so field strip the same way, have similar safety mechanisms and have similar components that do the same job.
Thus, I'm suspecting that PART C engages the sear in either full or semi.

This probably explains things a bit better than I can - Check out the pretty diagrams, too:
http://arniesairsoft.co.uk/?filnavn=/ar ... sagbb.html